Corroded chassis members repair questions

[Tanguero]

m4tti said:

Cant quite see from the pics, but did you remove all your interior to reduce weight, before doing the body lift?

Did the body flex coming off or going back on (if it is back on) leaving any marks in the laquer?

I did remove the interior. You need to take the seats out and at least displace the centre console to get at the body bolts behind the cubby hole. As I am re-veneering my dashboard, it is just as simple having got that far to take the console out completely then it isn't in the way and not vulnerable to damage.

I didn't notice any significant flex lifting the body and certainly don't seem to have any laquer problems, though I don't have it back on the chassis yet.

[anonymous-user]

Im guessing this is a good a guide to what needs to happen as any I can find...

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[anonymous-user]

As noticed by UKKIDS35 when he popped round tonight, the chassis "ladder" in the engine bay is wider at the top than the bottom, but the body tub goes in the opposite direction.

How do you get the body to pass the chassis? Do you have to lift one side of the body before the other? As I'm kinda being pushed down the body lift route, kinda need to get this right!

[Tanguero]

You tilt the body to about 30 degrees as you lift it off.

[anonymous-user]

Tanguero said:

You tilt the body to about 30 degrees as you lift it off.

As if I wasnt apprehensive enough already about doing this!

[spongy]

djstevec said:

As if I wasnt apprehensive enough already about doing this!

You will be fine sir..make sure you get a midget to lift one side and you will be ok.just take it in little stages and all will be fine ...the bodys are very strong have looked at one off a chassis.

[anonymous-user]

spongy said:

You will be fine sir..make sure you get a midget to lift one side and you will be ok.just take it in little stages and all will be fine ...the bodys are very strong have looked at one off a chassis.

Yeah this all a little bit daunting for a guy who's never even serviced his own car before buying a Cerbera! First was a split fuel hose on day 2 of ownership, then HT leads and coil packs as they cooked themselves in a 2 hour traffic jam on the M25, then an engine pull, now a body off!!

At least Ive brought a small amount of order to the chaos of my spare bathroom.

[spongy]

lol will have to show mrs sponge that piccy,our house,garage,workshop,shed,loft,is full of car stuff infact so is the garden

[pmessling]

Just like my garden, conservatory, boot of my jeep bedroom.

[greenracing]

I keep puting off the intended body off rebuild due to a number of factors ( time, space, i want to drive the car etc) but have been thinking hard about refurb of old chassis or brand new. Basically I know a very good metal fabrication company and thought about asking them to build one, so here goes:-

1. How much would be a sensible cost for a fully finished new one?
2. Is there any issue reproducing one in terms of dvla or tvr copyright?
3. How big is the market for a new chassis considering how few cerbs are left and how many have already had rebuilds?
4. What finish?

My thoughts are 1. £1500-£2000, 2. Stamp chassis with old number, dvla dont need to know, doubt TVR care 3. Probably max about 50-100 new ones would ever be bought and 4. Original white with powder coat done properly.


Your thoughts please!

[1Dog74]

greenracing said:

I keep puting off the intended body off rebuild due to a number of factors ( time, space, i want to drive the car etc) but have been thinking hard about refurb of old chassis or brand new. Basically I know a very good metal fabrication company and thought about asking them to build one, so here goes:-

1. How much would be a sensible cost for a fully finished new one?
2. Is there any issue reproducing one in terms of dvla or tvr copyright?
3. How big is the market for a new chassis considering how few cerbs are left and how many have already had rebuilds?
4. What finish?

My thoughts are 1. £1500-£2000, 2. Stamp chassis with old number, dvla dont need to know, doubt TVR care 3. Probably max about 50-100 new ones would ever be bought and 4. Original white with powder coat done properly.


Your thoughts please!

I'm currently stripping all the naff waxoil from mine ready for a repaint, although to be honest it's looking okay so far and needs just a few areas of rust treated. I'm doing the best I can so it's POR15 and a nice shiny white top coat, it's not a job I want to do again as it means more time on axel stands and less on the road.

I've often thought about a lovely new chassis or a full body off refurb - so if a new chassis could be ordered I'd be tempted.

[spongy]

+1

[spongy]

Neil,what nice top coat are you going to use....i know the subject has been done to death....just not happy with my por 15 top coat...as it chips really easily

[1Dog74]

spongy said:

Neil,what nice top coat are you going to use....i know the subject has been done to death....just not happy with my por 15 top coat...as it chips really easily

My clean and paint method is, unless someone shouts No!

Marine Clean
Lots of sanding, wire brushing
POR15 (gray) RUST Paint
POR15 Tie coat
Hardnose white

Thoughts??

[spongy]

1Dog74 said:

My clean and paint method is, unless someone shouts No!

Marine Clean
Lots of sanding, wire brushing
POR15 (gray) RUST Paint
POR15 Tie coat
Hardnose white

Thoughts??

My method
marine clean
sanding and dremel
metal etch/rust product(por 15)
por 15 grey
tie coat
hardnose white
polish

my problem is the white coat chips really easily.the finish is really good if you put the time in...but i have a few chips on the parts i have done.now these chips are from the garage who refitted the rear silencers so i dont know how hard the tubes were hit ..going to rub the tubes down again and repaint but i dont want to waste my time if the stuff chips easliy.

[spongy]

Ps years ago i used a product called re-paint by a company called solvitol.It was bloody brilliant stuff and i think i got it in halfords,they dont seem to sell it any more.....so if anyone knows where we can source some i would recommend this stuff

[DAVEY DEE]

I'd be up for a new chassis.I want to do everything possible,over time to sort the car out completely so it lasts a long long time.Which means replacing nearly everything with something better.There must be a growing market for it,at least 3 on this thread.Time to give Dom & RT a nudge in the backside.

[anonymous-user]

4!

[m4tti]

1Dog74 said:

My clean and paint method is, unless someone shouts No!

Marine Clean
Lots of sanding, wire brushing
POR15 (gray) RUST Paint
POR15 Tie coat
Hardnose white

Thoughts??

I used KBS rust seal system and was quite impressed. It dried extremely hard. I hit some test bits with a hammer and they didn't mark. Here's my repair thread. I think it dried better than some por15 jobs I'd seen. I know por15 can be tricky to get right.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[Rufus Roughcut]

5!