Corroded chassis members repair questions
Discussion
djstevec said:
Hey Graham,
Well latest is that its basically ready to separate body and chassis, Im borrowing Tanguero's 4 post lift rig (and a lot of his knowledge!! ) to do the actual lift off. Peter is still putting his all back together, so its in a little bit of a holding pattern right now. Im in absolutely no rush though (Im doing this once and once only!!), it also gives me some time to clean up whats going back on, and buying the new shiny bits!
Oh and not going down the POR15 route anymore. On good advice from Peter, Im sending the chassis and all the suspension components to a place in Gravesend for blasting back to metal, zinc plasma and a proper powder coating.
Now, if the plan is to have the car resprayed black, what colour chassis to have?? Gold perhaps? Deep red?
Steve, the supports are available as of 10pm tonight!!! Body is back on the chassis, but dear God what a job! And I thought taking it off was bad enough, and it started pissing it down just after I reached the point of no return. It just needs bolting up and then sticking the engine back in now. Pics and thread to follow.Well latest is that its basically ready to separate body and chassis, Im borrowing Tanguero's 4 post lift rig (and a lot of his knowledge!! ) to do the actual lift off. Peter is still putting his all back together, so its in a little bit of a holding pattern right now. Im in absolutely no rush though (Im doing this once and once only!!), it also gives me some time to clean up whats going back on, and buying the new shiny bits!
Oh and not going down the POR15 route anymore. On good advice from Peter, Im sending the chassis and all the suspension components to a place in Gravesend for blasting back to metal, zinc plasma and a proper powder coating.
Now, if the plan is to have the car resprayed black, what colour chassis to have?? Gold perhaps? Deep red?
After my experience yesterday trying to get the body tilted right to get the top chassis rails to go in, even with good visibility and being able to climb into the engine bay to lever things around with a (suitably padded!) crow bar. I wouldn't even consider trying with the engine in situ!
I am sure people have done it that way - but there is absolutely no way I would!
I am sure people have done it that way - but there is absolutely no way I would!
My original plan was to put the engine into the chassis but without the manifolds on, then put the manifolds back on afterwards. However I am very glad I decided to leave the entire engine out. It was a hell of a job as it was, and I think I would have found it impossible with the engine in place.
Still backing gold to compliment your other plans for the car!
I like gooooollllllldddd.
Also had a weird Cerby day dream in the office the other day and wondered what ever happened to Christof's old monster;
http://www.pistonheads.com/tvr/cerbera/default.asp...
Bit of inspiration for you perhaps Ste?!
Katanoroug or similar springs to mind as the next owner, but it kind of vanished??
I am a proper Cerbera geek, for that I can only apologise.
I like gooooollllllldddd.
Also had a weird Cerby day dream in the office the other day and wondered what ever happened to Christof's old monster;
http://www.pistonheads.com/tvr/cerbera/default.asp...
Bit of inspiration for you perhaps Ste?!
Katanoroug or similar springs to mind as the next owner, but it kind of vanished??
I am a proper Cerbera geek, for that I can only apologise.
Gazzab said:
I just tried replying to the thread...
Not sure that worked!
I used to love it but 10 yrs later I am not so sure it works....
Christof set up a dealership in Germany. I presume that isnt around anymore?
Not entirely sure, I remember him setting up the dealership, but things went quiet over time? A true Cerbera-mad enthusiast. Not sure that worked!
I used to love it but 10 yrs later I am not so sure it works....
Christof set up a dealership in Germany. I presume that isnt around anymore?
I think it works without the naff numberplates/ stickers/ different wheels. I saw it in the 'glass at Le Mans with the new owner and it looked menacing.
BCA said:
Not entirely sure, I remember him setting up the dealership, but things went quiet over time? A true Cerbera-mad enthusiast.
I think it works without the naff numberplates/ stickers/ different wheels. I saw it in the 'glass at Le Mans with the new owner and it looked menacing.
Well "if" Im gonna shove a rear diffuser on mine, its gonna actually produce downforce not just be dead weight and risk having something just there to get knocked off by speed bumps!! I think it works without the naff numberplates/ stickers/ different wheels. I saw it in the 'glass at Le Mans with the new owner and it looked menacing.
Chatting with Andy (APM) a while ago, a road going cerb would benefit more from a simple lip spoiler on the boot. So I'm thinking something discreet along those lines.
maybe....
Edited by djstevec on Thursday 21st June 09:37
OK so.....a big day in the life of my Cerb!!
With more help than I can ever thank them for, Tanguero and UKKID35 battled, pushed, pulled, cut, persuaded (with crow bars) and even swore (at least twice!!) during today's body off.
I can only admire how much these guys know and put into practice, but I hope I can learn half as much.
After getting the car into the state where I thought there was "one or two" minor jobs to finish off before separation, it turned into a 3-4 hour battle to get around the idiosyncrasies of Blackpool's finest car makers......but with persistence, an angle grinder and a hack saw or two, things eventually went from a whole car.....to two halves next to each other.
One of the most disconcerting sounds is the crunching of fibreglass as a breaker bar is being "gently" used to persuade the chassis to stop defying gravity and drop away from the car, however gently its being done, that crunch isnt nice!!
So a quick look over the chassis didn't show any significant further issues to the original chassis corrosion as per the main thrust of the thread....BUT....for those of you thinking a partial lift or body on outrigger replacement is possible, please take a note of the following pics, which were hidden from view by the body, and then make your own minds up.
rear wheel arch mating point to main outrigger,
same joint after silicon "bung" removed,
opposite side joint, same issue,
Maybe this sleeved rear member could do with a bit of welding,
Is it really that difficult to get all of the new sections lined up with the box section lower rail?? Seems so, if sliding a 5mm screwdriver into the gap is anything to go by...oh but only to one side...so thats ok right?
So that's all of today's work and new issues. Outriggers, although only 18 months or so old, will be coming off to be done properly. :-/
More to come Im sure, but thank you once again to Peter and Paul, you guys are superb
With more help than I can ever thank them for, Tanguero and UKKID35 battled, pushed, pulled, cut, persuaded (with crow bars) and even swore (at least twice!!) during today's body off.
I can only admire how much these guys know and put into practice, but I hope I can learn half as much.
After getting the car into the state where I thought there was "one or two" minor jobs to finish off before separation, it turned into a 3-4 hour battle to get around the idiosyncrasies of Blackpool's finest car makers......but with persistence, an angle grinder and a hack saw or two, things eventually went from a whole car.....to two halves next to each other.
One of the most disconcerting sounds is the crunching of fibreglass as a breaker bar is being "gently" used to persuade the chassis to stop defying gravity and drop away from the car, however gently its being done, that crunch isnt nice!!
So a quick look over the chassis didn't show any significant further issues to the original chassis corrosion as per the main thrust of the thread....BUT....for those of you thinking a partial lift or body on outrigger replacement is possible, please take a note of the following pics, which were hidden from view by the body, and then make your own minds up.
rear wheel arch mating point to main outrigger,
same joint after silicon "bung" removed,
opposite side joint, same issue,
Maybe this sleeved rear member could do with a bit of welding,
Is it really that difficult to get all of the new sections lined up with the box section lower rail?? Seems so, if sliding a 5mm screwdriver into the gap is anything to go by...oh but only to one side...so thats ok right?
So that's all of today's work and new issues. Outriggers, although only 18 months or so old, will be coming off to be done properly. :-/
More to come Im sure, but thank you once again to Peter and Paul, you guys are superb
Edited by djstevec on Sunday 2nd September 00:36
Tanguero said:
Very pretty, but if its only paint rather than powder coat its going to chip like a bh!
I've got a painted TVR chassis that was done (professionaly) 22 years ago. At the same time good quality powder coating was done that sees the same wear/tear and exposure as the chassis. The current chassis condition suggests that your theory is not correct.
As an aside, the powder coating was a mess after about 15 years..
Edited by TVR_owner on Sunday 2nd September 11:57
Demondad said:
I have to admire the wooden four poster and the vast garage space you have!! You should hire both out knowing how many of us will require this job in future.
Well the space is pretty good, on the down side theres no power close by, lighting sucks, no storage and the body/chassis has to be kept out in the open :-/Not sure how the happy the management company are going to be either!!
TVR_owner said:
Tanguero said:
Very pretty, but if its only paint rather than powder coat its going to chip like a bh!
I've got a painted TVR chassis that was done (professionaly) 22 years ago. At the same time good quality powder coating was done that sees the same wear/tear and exposure as the chassis. The current chassis condition suggests that your theory is not correct.
As an aside, the powder coating was a mess after about 15 years..
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