Steering Wheel Ribbon Cable
Discussion
How do you remove the steering wheel boss in order to repair a broken ribbon cable (I'm assuming it's ribbon)?
I have traced four of the five connections to the back of the steering column (GND, Horn, Main Beam, Washer) but the Wiper connection is broken.
So how do I get in to repair it?
As always any suggestions very welcome.
I have traced four of the five connections to the back of the steering column (GND, Horn, Main Beam, Washer) but the Wiper connection is broken.
So how do I get in to repair it?
As always any suggestions very welcome.
This should help Paul
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
How you have it now with the centre bolt removed you should be able to pull the whole lot out.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
How you have it now with the centre bolt removed you should be able to pull the whole lot out.
pmessling said:
This should help Paul
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
How you have it now with the centre bolt removed you should be able to pull the whole lot out.
Thanks Peter - that thread would have been massively helpful 8 hours ago, but I've had to rediscover it all for myself.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
How you have it now with the centre bolt removed you should be able to pull the whole lot out.
Anyway the problem remains, with the centre bolt removed I cannot persuade the boss to move even a fraction of a millimetre....
ukkid35 said:
Anyway the problem remains, with the centre bolt removed I cannot persuade the boss to move even a fraction of a millimetre....
First time I tried taking the boss off, was convinced voodoo was holding it on until I saw AndyAPM do it in less than 2 minutes. Take off steering wheel and loosen but DO NOT FULLY REMOVE centre bolt or you will lose teeth doing the next bit. Bolt steering wheel back on and use the wheel to push/pull (and I mean really feckin pull) the boss off the spigot. When it does come, take off wheel, take out centre bolt and voila. Helps to have seat fully forward and get your feet above the pedals and on the bulkhead to get leverage. It's tight and you'll be convinced the wheel will snap but it will come off eventually. good luck. 
hth.
Edited by SlvrCrb on Saturday 18th May 00:11
SlvrCrb said:
Take off steering wheel and loosen but DO NOT FULLY REMOVE centre bolt or you will lose teeth doing the next bit. Bolt steering wheel back on and use the wheel to push/pull (and I mean really feckin pull) the boss off the spigot.
Thank you. I will be trying that as soon as I get back home on Sunday evening. Much appreciated.Sharp tap did the trick instantly, no other effort involved at all.
However the rest of the evening did not go so well:
I found that the #10 track on the ribbon was indeed faulty but there is a lot of redundancy since only 5 of the 10 tracks are used. So I bridged #1 and #10 at both ends, only to find that it still didn't work because #1 was broken too (the cable is wired as follows: #10 Wiper, #9 Washer, #8 Horn, #7 High beam, #6 Common Ground, with #1 to #5 unused).
So I bridged #1 and #2 at both ends, and sure enough now the wipers work again - time to celebrate, until I find that now the (previously working) washers have stopped working. Presumably my investigations have further damaged the ribbon.
So the plan is to use more of the unused ribbon, this time for the washer circuit.
Yes, I could have replaced the ribbon entirely, but probably not before leaving for Zolder on Thursday, and no doubt a new ribbon costs a small fortune.
How long have I spent on this minor repair? Far longer than I care to share.
However the rest of the evening did not go so well:
I found that the #10 track on the ribbon was indeed faulty but there is a lot of redundancy since only 5 of the 10 tracks are used. So I bridged #1 and #10 at both ends, only to find that it still didn't work because #1 was broken too (the cable is wired as follows: #10 Wiper, #9 Washer, #8 Horn, #7 High beam, #6 Common Ground, with #1 to #5 unused).
So I bridged #1 and #2 at both ends, and sure enough now the wipers work again - time to celebrate, until I find that now the (previously working) washers have stopped working. Presumably my investigations have further damaged the ribbon.
So the plan is to use more of the unused ribbon, this time for the washer circuit.
Yes, I could have replaced the ribbon entirely, but probably not before leaving for Zolder on Thursday, and no doubt a new ribbon costs a small fortune.
How long have I spent on this minor repair? Far longer than I care to share.
OK so the controls are now working fine, but I can't reassemble the steering column.
When the steering hub is fitted to the shaft there is no clearance from the binnacle, and although I can pull on the steering wheel to create some clearance, within minutes it has collapsed and they grind together.
It feels as if something is missing, but I can't work out what.
The issue is most obvious where the indicator cancelling electronics resides.
I'm really stuck now, with hardly any time to resolve this before (hopefully) leaving for Zolder on Thursday, so any advice is very welcome.
When the steering hub is fitted to the shaft there is no clearance from the binnacle, and although I can pull on the steering wheel to create some clearance, within minutes it has collapsed and they grind together.
It feels as if something is missing, but I can't work out what.
The issue is most obvious where the indicator cancelling electronics resides.
I'm really stuck now, with hardly any time to resolve this before (hopefully) leaving for Zolder on Thursday, so any advice is very welcome.
gcpeters said:
has your self cancelling indicators ever worked?
it looks from the image that the self cancelling circuit is in the wrong place. The disc on the steering shaft needs to run between the two diodes
GP
I think that is the highlighting of the issue of the column sitting too far "in".. It used to/should run there, but something with the reassembly means it now isn't.it looks from the image that the self cancelling circuit is in the wrong place. The disc on the steering shaft needs to run between the two diodes
GP
to follow up, it looks like for some reason they actual hub which the wheels bolts onto has moved backwards, hence the indicator cancelling circuit is in the wrong place
if you look at the picture here...
and then compare it to mine you here, you can see the spring is no where near as uncompressed as on yours
if you look at the picture here...
and then compare it to mine you here, you can see the spring is no where near as uncompressed as on yours
I think it's to do with the nylon bush. That is what allows the spring to be compressed without the hub fouling the binnacle. Except it no longer does. As soon as I tighten the nut, which compresses the spring (allowing the indicator cancelling to work) the hub rubs on the binnacle.
I can pull on the steering wheel, further compressing the spring, opening up a big gap as shown in the pics, but this soon sinks back and starts rubbing again.
I can pull on the steering wheel, further compressing the spring, opening up a big gap as shown in the pics, but this soon sinks back and starts rubbing again.
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