New Diagnostic Software for the MBE ECU now for the AJP

[scotty_d]

Alistair H. said:

OK chaps...Progress...of a sort.

I found my ECU, and found a cable looking like this coming out of the big ECU connector.



Now, I thought these were meant to be 3 pin? This is only 2?

I took the ECU cover off and...



so...

should I just use the 9 pin connector? or is the wire with the 2 pin connector any use? It would be easier than taking the ecu cover off all the time.

Assume cable is standard rs232, pin 2 to 3, 3 to 2 and pin 5 gnd if I use 9 pin d type?

Just bought a usb to serial converter as well....so getting slowly nearer!

Hi Alistair

The 9 pin serial d type is the one you need, no idea what the 2 pin plug is for, I have it as well, that's the lead you need to make up. Its pretty easy.

http://tvrcerbera.co.uk/Gallery/albums/userpics/Ma...

[EvoOlli]

If it's the same as with the newer ECUs you don't need the resistors. They are only needed if you want to do live mapping with EasiMap as far as I know.

[Alistair H.]

Thanks chaps.

Reading other older posts on cables, can I just plug the male 9 pin end of my usb to serial cable directly in to the ecu port? Or do I need to swap pins 2 and 3 with a null modem style cable?

The usb converter presents com4 in device manager, and your software sees it as com4 when I select it in your(oli's) software. so that looks hopeful.

So nearly there...Have to wait till tomoz now to try it.

[Mr Cerbera]

Alistair, You can look at Aide’s guide to make the interface cable in the stickies at the top of the Cerbera page here
OR
Perhaps the probs I encountered here may help you.

[Luckyone]

I’ve made myself a cable with the resistors included as they were available at work. Just waiting for the Serial / USB Converter to turn up now.

EvoOlli’s fine looking program seems to run up fine on my other half’s company laptop so that will save me dragging the old desk top out to the garage!

Not having used the original software I read though the user manual for it anyway & it seems EvoOlli’s has it all there on the one page.

Just I assume I ignore the Reset Throttle button on the AJP8? Setting the pots up as per the service manual instead?

[Alistair H.]

Keep us updated. The rain is so bad, I cant be bothered backing Cerbie out of the garage to try mine!

[EvoOlli]

Luckyone said:

Just I assume I ignore the Reset Throttle button on the AJP8? Setting the pots up as per the service manual instead?

On the SpeedSix you normally balance the throttles and then push 'Reset Throttle' while engine is idling to tell the ECU the 'Zero'-Position. Don't know how it works on the AJP, but I would think it's the same approach.

[Luckyone]

EvoOlli said:

Luckyone said:

Just I assume I ignore the Reset Throttle button on the AJP8? Setting the pots up as per the service manual instead?

On the SpeedSix you normally balance the throttles and then push 'Reset Throttle' while engine is idling to tell the ECU the 'Zero'-Position. Don't know how it works on the AJP, but I would think it's the same approach.

The pots are adjustable on the AJP8 so according to the service manual you back both the idler screws right off & manually set the pots to 15% then reconnect the link arm & set the idler screws so you’re getting 19% on the pots. I don’t know if it’s possible / advisable to 'Reset Throttle' instead of manually setting the pots to 15%. I guess in an extreme case you’d end up going out of range on the pot if the 15% point was too far out.

When you 'Reset Throttle' on the speed 6 do you see both pots jump to 15%? (I guess the speed 6 has an AAC / Idle Control Valve?)

[EvoOlli]

OK, I understand. On the SpeedSix you don't touch the Throttle Pots, you only reset them and the ECU sets approx. 15% at this point.
The Speedsix doesn't have an idle valve.

So maybe I should disable the Reset Throttle Button in AJP8 Mode if it's not usefull ?

[Luckyone]

EvoOlli said:

OK, I understand. On the SpeedSix you don't touch the Throttle Pots, you only reset them and the ECU sets approx. 15% at this point.
The Speedsix doesn't have an idle valve.

So maybe I should disable the Reset Throttle Button in AJP8 Mode if it's not usefull ?

I don’t know, it could be useful if it’s hard to get the pots to set in place accurately I’ve not tried it before, APM Andy always did it for me, I'll let you know when I try it tomorrow (hopefully). But is possible it just doesn’t work on the AJP8 version of the ECU, I think the original software has it, but again I’ve not used it so can’t be sure.


So the AJP8 & SpeedSix will idle correctly at different pot %, interesting...

[Luckyone]

I’ve done a little digging, there are two versions of the original software, an old & a new version.

The old version hasn’t got a "Reset Throttle" function, the new one has.

The old versions help file talks about 8 cylinders & the new one only talks about 6.

So it would seem on the surface that the old original software is for the AJP8 & the "new" original software is for the SpeedSix.

Apparently it’s fine to use the "new" original software with the AJP8, but I’ve not found any mention of the Reset Throttle function in that context...



It maybe the weekend before I report back, but I'll let you know how I get on.

[Luckyone]

EvoOlli’s program loads up fine on my other half’s laptop, a 64bit windows 7 machine, but I can’t yet get the serial to USB convertor driver installed as I’m not an administrator of it. For the sake of it I tried the original software (both versions) on the lap top but as it has been pointed out many times before it won’t easily run.

So I dragged my old Windows XP desk top out to the garage so I could plug directly into the 232 port. First I tried the original software, it loaded fine & both versions connected up as soon as I switched on the ignition, but they both started to flicker after about 30 seconds then both just said connection lost & would not reconnect.

EvoOlli’s program loaded up fine on the XP machine too, once I’d used his select com port button it connected up fine & stayed stable as long as I used it, so I got on with balancing the throttles using that. So many thanks EvoOlli

The original software did stay up long enough for me to see that EvoOlli’s program gave exactly the same numbers.

I think the original software had a page down function that displays just the Tpot values in very large text, but I could still see them ok from the engine bay on EvoOlli’s single screen with the monitor on the back seat (the front aren’t in at the mo).

The manual balancing is a pain on the AJP8 so I did try the “Reset Throttle button” it came back with message saying it had been done but it had no effect on the Tpot values So I did the the manual way, I was glad I hadn’t properly fitted the A/C pump yet as that had to move to get at the Tpots.

I also spent a good few minutes swearing at the throttle linkage before I realised the opposed threads are on the steel bar at one end not in the ally link bar like they are on twin carbs. I hadn’t found that even with the engine in bits as the left hand tread was totally covered by the locking nut...



EvoOlli’s program also correctly listed all my faults - most of the sensors not being connected. So hopefully by the time I’ve got all the last few bits of the car back together I’ll have the driver for the serial to USB convertor installed & I can check again with the laptop.

[Alistair H.]

Ok chaps, I am now in the diagnostic club! _ however..problems.



I did clear the faults and also saved a log file. I don't have any issues with running. However it still says I have AFR faults which I guess are throttle balancing. Not sure on the other faults.

Where can I read to educate myself. Knowing the fault limits for each setting would be a start.

Thanks to Olli for the software!

[EvoOlli]

Your adaptives are complete out of range, it looks like your Lambdas are not working because both show 0V, which isn't normal...

[Supateg]

Alistair H. said:

Knowing the fault limits for each setting would be a start.

Thanks to Olli for the software!

On the original tvr software there is the expected data for some of the readings in the help file.

[Alistair H.]

Yes, Just looking at this now.

ADAPTIVE 1 & ADAPTIVE 2
These numbers represent the percentage by which the ECU has adjusted the amount of
fuel being injected in order to achieve the correct mixture. There are adaptive
values for every combination of speed and load, which will change independently of
each other. If the engine is running correctly this percentage should be low. If it
is high ( >+/-20 percent) then a fault or maladjusted throttle pot should be
suspected.

IF A CAR HAS BEEN RUNNING BADLY WITH FAULTS PRESENT, THE ADAPTIVE MAPS
MUST BE RESET TO ZERO. This is done by selecting "ZERO ADAPTIVE MAPS" from
the ECU TOOLS menu.

Firstly I don't understand why it still shows air sensor and battery faults as these are clearly ok and in limits. The lamdas did show a reading initially then settled to zero.

I did try and clear faults, but nothing cleared. Can someone explain the "reset adaptives" to me?

[Supateg]

If a fault is logged, a fault exists even if is intermittent.
I had issues with battery voltage and fuel pressure. Big fuse and corroded fuel terminals was the cause.
The car was hesitant, poor performance, and all sorts of electrical gremlins.

[Tanguero]

Either both lambda sensors have given up (unlikely), or there is a fault in the lambda wiring loom (slightly more likely) or both banks are running so rich that they are pushing the lambda readings right to 0v.

Adaptives are the ECUs way of trying to reconcile between what the throttle pot tells it is happening with the fueling and what the lambda reports as actually happening.

To work out what the problem actually is, my first step would be to carefully set up both the airflow the throttle pots as per the Workshop manual, then see if the lambdas come back into range. Simply resetting the adaptives is unlikely to help you.

[spitfire4v8]

Alistair .. don't condemn any sensors on your car until it's been set up properly. an idle speed of 1200rpm and throttles at 15% shouldn't occur unless you're coasting down hill slightly. You've got an idle speed about 25% higher than it should be which instantly means extra fuel is required .. your engine sensors might be perfectly ok once you get your engine set up properly.

[Alistair H.]

spitfire4v8 said:

Alistair .. don't condemn any sensors on your car until it's been set up properly. an idle speed of 1200rpm and throttles at 15% shouldn't occur unless you're coasting down hill slightly. You've got an idle speed about 25% higher than it should be which instantly means extra fuel is required .. your engine sensors might be perfectly ok once you get your engine set up properly.

Joolz...YHM.