New Diagnostic Software for the MBE ECU now for the AJP
Discussion
I thought the throttles shouldn’t ever be at 15% unless you are setting them up with the idle screw backed off?
17% should be the idle setting shouldn’t it? Or can you get to a situation where you need to have them almost shut down again just to get it to idle. Maybe there’s an air leak somewhere they’ve been backed off to compensate for, or more likely as said it’s just not been set up properly.
17% should be the idle setting shouldn’t it? Or can you get to a situation where you need to have them almost shut down again just to get it to idle. Maybe there’s an air leak somewhere they’ve been backed off to compensate for, or more likely as said it’s just not been set up properly.
I spent weeks working on this problem, using the early workshop manual and the later one with different throttle pot settings and also bought the airflow meter (synchrometer) to set the flow as per the manual. In a previous thread I was advised the manual was incorrect by a former TVR employee.
So, ignoring all the details, I set about this on my own. After setting the throttle pots around 17% and backing off the stop screw, the air through both banks was the same at 4.5 (not 5 or 6 as per the manual - this is not achievable) and the lambdas were not reading properly. AFR was constantly flagged up as faulty and despite clearing the adaptives the management light came back on. Having replaced the lambdas, coil packs, plugs and leads, checked the injectors and the AFRs were still not right I all but gave up. The voltage on the screen was dropping below 12v yet a check at the battery and alternator showed it to be 13.8v. Hmmm.....
Then I decided on a different tactic. After setting it all up, cleared the adaptives then took the car for a 30 minute thrash giving it max when I could. After some 10 mins the management light went off and has not reappeared since. The voltage reading is also correct.
The moral is that having cleared the adaptives you need to give the car a proper run to re-establish them. That was my mistake.
So, ignoring all the details, I set about this on my own. After setting the throttle pots around 17% and backing off the stop screw, the air through both banks was the same at 4.5 (not 5 or 6 as per the manual - this is not achievable) and the lambdas were not reading properly. AFR was constantly flagged up as faulty and despite clearing the adaptives the management light came back on. Having replaced the lambdas, coil packs, plugs and leads, checked the injectors and the AFRs were still not right I all but gave up. The voltage on the screen was dropping below 12v yet a check at the battery and alternator showed it to be 13.8v. Hmmm.....
Then I decided on a different tactic. After setting it all up, cleared the adaptives then took the car for a 30 minute thrash giving it max when I could. After some 10 mins the management light went off and has not reappeared since. The voltage reading is also correct.
The moral is that having cleared the adaptives you need to give the car a proper run to re-establish them. That was my mistake.
N7GTX said:
I spent weeks working on this problem, using the early workshop manual and the later one with different throttle pot settings and also bought the airflow meter (synchrometer) to set the flow as per the manual. In a previous thread I was advised the manual was incorrect by a former TVR employee.
So, ignoring all the details, I set about this on my own. After setting the throttle pots around 17% and backing off the stop screw, the air through both banks was the same at 4.5 (not 5 or 6 as per the manual - this is not achievable) and the lambdas were not reading properly. AFR was constantly flagged up as faulty and despite clearing the adaptives the management light came back on. Having replaced the lambdas, coil packs, plugs and leads, checked the injectors and the AFRs were still not right I all but gave up. The voltage on the screen was dropping below 12v yet a check at the battery and alternator showed it to be 13.8v. Hmmm.....
Then I decided on a different tactic. After setting it all up, cleared the adaptives then took the car for a 30 minute thrash giving it max when I could. After some 10 mins the management light went off and has not reappeared since. The voltage reading is also correct.
The moral is that having cleared the adaptives you need to give the car a proper run to re-establish them. That was my mistake.
Thanks for that, I found your other post, has the correct procedure for setting up a 4.2 vrs 4.5 ever been establish then? So, ignoring all the details, I set about this on my own. After setting the throttle pots around 17% and backing off the stop screw, the air through both banks was the same at 4.5 (not 5 or 6 as per the manual - this is not achievable) and the lambdas were not reading properly. AFR was constantly flagged up as faulty and despite clearing the adaptives the management light came back on. Having replaced the lambdas, coil packs, plugs and leads, checked the injectors and the AFRs were still not right I all but gave up. The voltage on the screen was dropping below 12v yet a check at the battery and alternator showed it to be 13.8v. Hmmm.....
Then I decided on a different tactic. After setting it all up, cleared the adaptives then took the car for a 30 minute thrash giving it max when I could. After some 10 mins the management light went off and has not reappeared since. The voltage reading is also correct.
The moral is that having cleared the adaptives you need to give the car a proper run to re-establish them. That was my mistake.
The contributor (former TVR employee) who suggested the early set up procedure in the manual was wrong, never came back with a method to try despite his kind offer so I cannot say if there is a definitive way that works for everyone. But I do remember reading on here that a good run was necessary after setting up and it certainly worked for me.
I really need to get the car on a rolling road to (a) find out what BHP is being produced and (b) if this can be increased with some fine tuning.
I really need to get the car on a rolling road to (a) find out what BHP is being produced and (b) if this can be increased with some fine tuning.
Luckyone said:
I’ve made myself a cable with the resistors included as they were available at work. Just waiting for the Serial / USB Converter to turn up now.
EvoOlli’s fine looking program seems to run up fine on my other half’s company laptop so that will save me dragging the old desk top out to the garage!
I love PistonHeads!EvoOlli’s fine looking program seems to run up fine on my other half’s company laptop so that will save me dragging the old desk top out to the garage!
I've had an Emerald K6 in the 4.5 for so long I'd forgotten anything I may have known about the MBE that the 4.2 still has. I'd seen a random cable in the garage cupboard & was hoping it may be the correct one.
I'd no memory of posting that at all till I did a search, this site is my personal reminder service!
Also the reson I make such long posts, I do at least remember my memory it terrible....
Amusing to see that was exactly 10 years ago that I was at the same stage of rebuilding the 4.5 too
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