Vibration while driving
Discussion
Can any one shed any light. I have a minor vibration when driving around 70ish. I've replaced all the tyres as it had been standing for a long time before I bought it. This cured about 90% of the vibration but the drive is still not smooth is this a characteristic of the car?
I also have a really bad judder/vibration when braking it shakes the car when braking hard. I can feel the brake pedal pulsating on very light braking so probably a disc out of shape. Any other favourite causes I've read about seized pads and corrosion on the inner face.
I have spent hours trawling the net reading about brake discs etc mine is a 97 4.2 with 4 bolt AP calipers so I guess I have the 291mm brake discs. Do I have any options for upgrade ? I have read something about an upright change which may affect what's fitted, my car has a sticker on the vin plate which says upright recall completed what was the recall?
Any help appreciated
I also have a really bad judder/vibration when braking it shakes the car when braking hard. I can feel the brake pedal pulsating on very light braking so probably a disc out of shape. Any other favourite causes I've read about seized pads and corrosion on the inner face.
I have spent hours trawling the net reading about brake discs etc mine is a 97 4.2 with 4 bolt AP calipers so I guess I have the 291mm brake discs. Do I have any options for upgrade ? I have read something about an upright change which may affect what's fitted, my car has a sticker on the vin plate which says upright recall completed what was the recall?
Any help appreciated
Hi, welcome to Cerb ownership. I had a similar vibration develope a couple of years ago. Was told by a mechanic that it was my imagination! It turned out to be wear, in one of the CV joints (on the near side driveshaft in my instance). Worth checking them out before spending anymore money. Good luck.
otp said:
I can feel the brake pedal pulsating on very light braking so probably a disc out of shape.
I think that is the big clue. You could get the discs skimmed, or simply replace them. Fortunately the fronts are not as absurdly expensive as the rears.Also worth checking the mating surface between hub and disc for corrosion.
I will get the front in the air and check all the bush's , I've looked at front disc prices maybe a change to 304 with a spacer is on the cards. I've measured the front thickness at 29.5mm the rears have a small lip but they seem almost the same size as the front. I will get them measured up and possibly a skim to resurface them.
What was the upright recall?
What was the upright recall?
I will make a comment on the remaining 10% of vibration while driving.
A couple of months ago I had new tyres fitted on my Chimaera. All balanced carefully, stick on weights used. I gaffer taped them to make sure.
Car drove fine, no issues for a few weeks. Decided to use the car for a 200 mile journey as it was a lovely day. All fine until I overtook a line of traffic on a motorway and hit 80 doing it. Vibration felt. Doing a track day later in the week, so.....
Went back to the tyre shop (ATS), who showed me that one 20 gm weight had come off, despite my gaffer tape.
You might just get the balance rechecked.....
A couple of months ago I had new tyres fitted on my Chimaera. All balanced carefully, stick on weights used. I gaffer taped them to make sure.
Car drove fine, no issues for a few weeks. Decided to use the car for a 200 mile journey as it was a lovely day. All fine until I overtook a line of traffic on a motorway and hit 80 doing it. Vibration felt. Doing a track day later in the week, so.....
Went back to the tyre shop (ATS), who showed me that one 20 gm weight had come off, despite my gaffer tape.
You might just get the balance rechecked.....
I had the exact same problem judder under braking, discs were not very old and look ok. So replaced the drag bushes with powerflex ones(search ebay for pf79-104 about £30)and what a difference not just braking but the steering was like a different car sharp and precise, brake judder is vastly reduced but can still just be felt under hard braking.
Also just solved my high speed vibration after checking driveshafts, propshaft and wheel balancing it turned out to be the spigot rings in my ultralite alloys which were just slightly the wrong size. The alloys always seamed to centre ok when fitting but 1.4mm was enough to cause a vibration that started about 75 mph and felt like over a ribbed surface.
Also just solved my high speed vibration after checking driveshafts, propshaft and wheel balancing it turned out to be the spigot rings in my ultralite alloys which were just slightly the wrong size. The alloys always seamed to centre ok when fitting but 1.4mm was enough to cause a vibration that started about 75 mph and felt like over a ribbed surface.
Had a similar problem which turned out to be mostly down to wheel balancing. However, I also had three ever so slight flatspots on the nearside front tyre and one on the offside front tyre, which caused a vibration around 70-80mph. The vibration would change in strength at a fairly slow rate (i.e. between its lowest and highest strength every 1-2 seconds), presumably influenced by the position of the flat spots relative to each other as the tyres rotated an came into contact with the road surface.
Lincscerb I will look at the bushes anyway probably worth changing for £30. I also have non TVR alloys and I know there are spigot rings in both fronts but when changing the rears at the weekend my son ( the tyre fitter) spotted the one rear had no spigot and I noticed the the other side had been partially pushed inside the the rim centre bore. I will nip out and measure the bore and hub and order a set up.
Brummie I did see the spacers on the website to enable the fitting of 304 mm discs. I've used CL pads in a couple of my race bikes a few years ago and the difference is night and day against the other race pads I used. I want to see if I can measure the run out and see which end needs replacing hopefully not the rears.
Thanks all
Brummie I did see the spacers on the website to enable the fitting of 304 mm discs. I've used CL pads in a couple of my race bikes a few years ago and the difference is night and day against the other race pads I used. I want to see if I can measure the run out and see which end needs replacing hopefully not the rears.
Thanks all
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