Fuel hose - technical question
Discussion
Hi, I am replacing all the fuel hoses as part of the refurb on my Cerb. I've been trying to find ethanol resistant fuel hose.
I believe the R9 rating is more ethanol resistant. Maybe there are higher grades?
I have been looking at Cohline hose via Merlin Motorsport and Ebay. I do have reservations about buying fuel hose off Ebay!
Two grades of hose are quoted, type 2120 no mention of ethanol. And 2240 resistant to ethanol. So I'm inclined to go for the 2240.
This leads onto a second question. Currently the hoses on the car are a mix of 7mm and 8mm. If I change a 7mm for a 8mm will that affect fuel pressure and therefore be a problem?
Specs below:
I believe the R9 rating is more ethanol resistant. Maybe there are higher grades?
I have been looking at Cohline hose via Merlin Motorsport and Ebay. I do have reservations about buying fuel hose off Ebay!
Two grades of hose are quoted, type 2120 no mention of ethanol. And 2240 resistant to ethanol. So I'm inclined to go for the 2240.
This leads onto a second question. Currently the hoses on the car are a mix of 7mm and 8mm. If I change a 7mm for a 8mm will that affect fuel pressure and therefore be a problem?
Specs below:
Hi Ian,
Just to add to the mix: PTFE hose, non permeable and resists 'attack' from all fuels, etc.
See below for a shopping list if you go this route:
OK so here goes, a shopping list for those of you wishing to replace all fuel hoses in the engine bay. Please note that this is based on a 1998 4.2 AJP engine.
All parts were sourced from Torques Products and they can be found on Ebay.
AN -6 (8mm) 5/16" Stainless Braided PTFE Fuel Hose 4m
You'll have more than enough with this amount, gives you a bit of breathing space if you cock up a measurement / cut)
AN -6 (AN6) STRAIGHT Male To 5/16" (8mm) Tube Adapter 4 off
These are used on the feed / return hard-lines which on my car hide under the expansion tank. They are also used on the fuel cooler.
AN -6 (AN6) STRAIGHT Teflon Fuel Hose Fitting 4 off
These are used on the hoses that connect to the hard-line adaptors
AN -6 (6AN JIC -06) to 1/2" BSP BSPP Straight Adapter 1 off
This part screws into the fuel rail, be sure to replace the sealing washer or refresh the old one by heating it with a blow torch to soften it.
AN -6 (AN6) 90 Degree Teflon Hose Fitting Aeroquip Type 1 off
This part screws onto the adaptor listed above.
Jubilee clip / hose finisher 1 off
This is used on the pressure regulator. I would have preferred to use an adaptor on this but the spigot isn't long enough.
I think that's it for the shopping list. I estimate it costing approx. £120
The job overall is pretty straight forward, measure twice and cut once, etc. I found the hardest part to be the removal of the original hard-line fittings under the expansion tank. Access is fairly limited even with tank removed. I cut the olive off (using a hack saw blade) followed by the smallest amount of distorted tube I could get away with. You need to remove the distorted tube in order to provide a fresh surface for the new olive to work upon. You absolutely must not cut too much off, if you do there won't be sufficient length remaining to accept the new hard-line adaptor. Make sure all cuts are de-burred and clean any crap out of the remaining tube.
Removing the beads off the fuel cooler is easy enough, again just make sure you remove the absolute minimum of length. De-burr the cut ends and blast compressed air through the cooler to make sure there is no crap lurking.
Before starting work I depressurised the fuel system by starting the engine and then removed the fuel pump fuse. When I cracked open the fitting on the fuel rail there was quite a lot of fuel remaining in the rail so be prepared with lots of rags.
I can't think of any other hints and tips at this time except:
PLEASE ENSURE YOU DO THIS JOB WITH A COLD ENGINE
HTH
Ian
Just to add to the mix: PTFE hose, non permeable and resists 'attack' from all fuels, etc.
See below for a shopping list if you go this route:
OK so here goes, a shopping list for those of you wishing to replace all fuel hoses in the engine bay. Please note that this is based on a 1998 4.2 AJP engine.
All parts were sourced from Torques Products and they can be found on Ebay.
AN -6 (8mm) 5/16" Stainless Braided PTFE Fuel Hose 4m
You'll have more than enough with this amount, gives you a bit of breathing space if you cock up a measurement / cut)
AN -6 (AN6) STRAIGHT Male To 5/16" (8mm) Tube Adapter 4 off
These are used on the feed / return hard-lines which on my car hide under the expansion tank. They are also used on the fuel cooler.
AN -6 (AN6) STRAIGHT Teflon Fuel Hose Fitting 4 off
These are used on the hoses that connect to the hard-line adaptors
AN -6 (6AN JIC -06) to 1/2" BSP BSPP Straight Adapter 1 off
This part screws into the fuel rail, be sure to replace the sealing washer or refresh the old one by heating it with a blow torch to soften it.
AN -6 (AN6) 90 Degree Teflon Hose Fitting Aeroquip Type 1 off
This part screws onto the adaptor listed above.
Jubilee clip / hose finisher 1 off
This is used on the pressure regulator. I would have preferred to use an adaptor on this but the spigot isn't long enough.
I think that's it for the shopping list. I estimate it costing approx. £120
The job overall is pretty straight forward, measure twice and cut once, etc. I found the hardest part to be the removal of the original hard-line fittings under the expansion tank. Access is fairly limited even with tank removed. I cut the olive off (using a hack saw blade) followed by the smallest amount of distorted tube I could get away with. You need to remove the distorted tube in order to provide a fresh surface for the new olive to work upon. You absolutely must not cut too much off, if you do there won't be sufficient length remaining to accept the new hard-line adaptor. Make sure all cuts are de-burred and clean any crap out of the remaining tube.
Removing the beads off the fuel cooler is easy enough, again just make sure you remove the absolute minimum of length. De-burr the cut ends and blast compressed air through the cooler to make sure there is no crap lurking.
Before starting work I depressurised the fuel system by starting the engine and then removed the fuel pump fuse. When I cracked open the fitting on the fuel rail there was quite a lot of fuel remaining in the rail so be prepared with lots of rags.
I can't think of any other hints and tips at this time except:
PLEASE ENSURE YOU DO THIS JOB WITH A COLD ENGINE
HTH
Ian
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