Tilton Slave, Zircotech Headers and Injector cleaning
Discussion
Here are my notes from doing my manifolds
Removing the exhaust manifolds
1) Remove rear chassis plate and disconnect the manifold to cat joints
2) Remove engine undertray
3) Drain coolant
4) Remove air boxes, throttle cable mounting, passenger side bonnet catch, header tank and header tank bracket.
5) Disconnect lambdas, noting which cable goes to which side.
6) Passenger side manifold – remove battery (having first opened doors and boot lid)
7) Remove bolt securing passenger side engine mount to chassis then tilt engine towards drivers side. The manifold can then be extracted upwards through the engine compartment.
8) Refit battery if you don’t want to leave the car powered down, my alarm objects to prolonged disconnection.
Additional items necessary for drivers side and some of these make the passenger side easier
9) Drain oil and remove filter (as this provides clearance later)
10)Remove clutch master cylinder cover (as above)
11)Remove coolant rails, securing water temp line out of the way to avoid damage
12)Jack engine and then remove passenger side engine mounting and plate
13)Remove bolt securing drivers side engine mounting to chassis. Slide engine to passenger side. Note that lifting the engine on this side will cause the engine mounting plate to bear on the steering column. Lift, slide and rotate engine as needed to allow manifold to be extracted upwards through engine compartment.
Jhonno - I take my hat off to you, I found it only just possible even with the water rails removed. I have come to the opinion that a lot of jobs are probably designed to be done engine out. If it weren't for the additional hassle of the air con refilling I think it would be the easier option.
Removing the exhaust manifolds
1) Remove rear chassis plate and disconnect the manifold to cat joints
2) Remove engine undertray
3) Drain coolant
4) Remove air boxes, throttle cable mounting, passenger side bonnet catch, header tank and header tank bracket.
5) Disconnect lambdas, noting which cable goes to which side.
6) Passenger side manifold – remove battery (having first opened doors and boot lid)
7) Remove bolt securing passenger side engine mount to chassis then tilt engine towards drivers side. The manifold can then be extracted upwards through the engine compartment.
8) Refit battery if you don’t want to leave the car powered down, my alarm objects to prolonged disconnection.
Additional items necessary for drivers side and some of these make the passenger side easier
9) Drain oil and remove filter (as this provides clearance later)
10)Remove clutch master cylinder cover (as above)
11)Remove coolant rails, securing water temp line out of the way to avoid damage
12)Jack engine and then remove passenger side engine mounting and plate
13)Remove bolt securing drivers side engine mounting to chassis. Slide engine to passenger side. Note that lifting the engine on this side will cause the engine mounting plate to bear on the steering column. Lift, slide and rotate engine as needed to allow manifold to be extracted upwards through engine compartment.
Jhonno - I take my hat off to you, I found it only just possible even with the water rails removed. I have come to the opinion that a lot of jobs are probably designed to be done engine out. If it weren't for the additional hassle of the air con refilling I think it would be the easier option.
aide said:
harry henderson said:
For a minute there I thought my car was in your garage.
That's beautiful, Ocean Haze? Pretty Rare!If you contact the ex TVR guy Nemasis on here he can tell you all about your car, he has all the records of every Cerbera that left the factory. Although he hasn't posted in a good while.
Spiders make an unbelievable difference to the car.
GT6k said:
Here are my notes from doing my manifolds
Removing the exhaust manifolds
1) Remove rear chassis plate and disconnect the manifold to cat joints
2) Remove engine undertray
3) Drain coolant
4) Remove air boxes, throttle cable mounting, passenger side bonnet catch, header tank and header tank bracket.
5) Disconnect lambdas, noting which cable goes to which side.
6) Passenger side manifold – remove battery (having first opened doors and boot lid)
7) Remove bolt securing passenger side engine mount to chassis then tilt engine towards drivers side. The manifold can then be extracted upwards through the engine compartment.
8) Refit battery if you don’t want to leave the car powered down, my alarm objects to prolonged disconnection.
Additional items necessary for drivers side and some of these make the passenger side easier
9) Drain oil and remove filter (as this provides clearance later)
10)Remove clutch master cylinder cover (as above)
11)Remove coolant rails, securing water temp line out of the way to avoid damage
12)Jack engine and then remove passenger side engine mounting and plate
13)Remove bolt securing drivers side engine mounting to chassis. Slide engine to passenger side. Note that lifting the engine on this side will cause the engine mounting plate to bear on the steering column. Lift, slide and rotate engine as needed to allow manifold to be extracted upwards through engine compartment.
Jhonno - I take my hat off to you, I found it only just possible even with the water rails removed. I have come to the opinion that a lot of jobs are probably designed to be done engine out. If it weren't for the additional hassle of the air con refilling I think it would be the easier option.
Thanks for that Ian, it's greatly appreciated.Removing the exhaust manifolds
1) Remove rear chassis plate and disconnect the manifold to cat joints
2) Remove engine undertray
3) Drain coolant
4) Remove air boxes, throttle cable mounting, passenger side bonnet catch, header tank and header tank bracket.
5) Disconnect lambdas, noting which cable goes to which side.
6) Passenger side manifold – remove battery (having first opened doors and boot lid)
7) Remove bolt securing passenger side engine mount to chassis then tilt engine towards drivers side. The manifold can then be extracted upwards through the engine compartment.
8) Refit battery if you don’t want to leave the car powered down, my alarm objects to prolonged disconnection.
Additional items necessary for drivers side and some of these make the passenger side easier
9) Drain oil and remove filter (as this provides clearance later)
10)Remove clutch master cylinder cover (as above)
11)Remove coolant rails, securing water temp line out of the way to avoid damage
12)Jack engine and then remove passenger side engine mounting and plate
13)Remove bolt securing drivers side engine mounting to chassis. Slide engine to passenger side. Note that lifting the engine on this side will cause the engine mounting plate to bear on the steering column. Lift, slide and rotate engine as needed to allow manifold to be extracted upwards through engine compartment.
Jhonno - I take my hat off to you, I found it only just possible even with the water rails removed. I have come to the opinion that a lot of jobs are probably designed to be done engine out. If it weren't for the additional hassle of the air con refilling I think it would be the easier option.
In the end I just drained the coolant, took the water rails off, unbolted the headers, took off the gearbox and starter, then jacked the engine up a bit and the headers came out from the bottom past the bellhousing. However, I did spent a good while, after I'd got the headers dangling loose, cursing every nut and bolt on the car
harry henderson said:
Cheers for that. It's not perfect when you get close up so it's booked for for a shiny new coat of paint in March along with a freshly refurbed set of RL7s. I just wish I had the skills and know how that the rest of you guys have, I'm impressed with myself when I fit a couple of rear silencers never mind the stuff you lot seem to do, very impressed.
Have you decided on a colour?
Jhonno said:
I keep looking at my engine and how much I could do if I removed it..
It's a slippery slope Dan I want to fix a leak and completely clean the engine - will get the timing chain, cam covers, water rails and maybe throttle bodies powder coated. But am considering an engine refresh..
Just ordered an Engine Crane
I already have an Engine Stand
Will start to prep the engine for removal over the next few evenings...
(Jeez, I'd earmarked January do to the Probationary Training sessions at the NRA in Bisley!)
I already have an Engine Stand
Will start to prep the engine for removal over the next few evenings...
(Jeez, I'd earmarked January do to the Probationary Training sessions at the NRA in Bisley!)
I need to order a few straps to use wth the the engine crane.
Looking at stuff on MachinMart
Can someone let me know if I only need a couple of straps?
Many thanks
Aide
Looking at stuff on MachinMart
Can someone let me know if I only need a couple of straps?
Many thanks
Aide
Have a set of Helicoils handy when you refit your headers. I put ACT gaskets on mine after re-fitting which shortens the bite on the bolts by a mm or two. On top of that some previously heavy handed person had been there before me and I ended up re-threading 8 out of 16 of the exhaust bolts. The aluminium is so soft it was an easy job and provides a better thread so may be worth doing anyway IMO.
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