Discussion
It started as an engine bay 'refresh' while the engine was out. Having spent the past 3 months of weekends stripping every vestige of paint off my chassis from the gearbox mounts forward (body still on), prepping it with POR15 Degreaser and then their Metal Prep, then two coats of their Rust Preventative Paint yesterday.... which I find today has reacted and bubbled up (high humidity?). So I now have to start all over again... I'm pretty pissed off right now, as you can imagine.
So, question time:
Here's where I'm at: I have already removed engine, box, zorsts, rads and all plumbing, front susp incl rack, column & brake pipes. You can see where I'm going with this... just a rear brake pipe, handbrake cable, speed sensor wire... and a dozen bolts? Rear suspension & diff off and then I could get the chassis blasted and recoated properly with no further need to attend to it in my lifetime (possibly).
Downside is that I am (well, was...) only a couple of weeks off being back on the road and this will add probably a couple of months to that...
Could anyone that's done this please advise what bolts are at the rear (presumably hidden behind the fuel tank?) and inside (do the carpets and dash all have to come out?) Really didn't want to do this now, but if I knew in March what I know now... I would've happily done it then! I hate POR15, it's so bloody pernickity... I swear I'll never use it again!
Probable cost of blasting/zinc & powder coating? Recommendations in the South? General tips and body lifting points?
Thanks,
Rik
So, question time:
Here's where I'm at: I have already removed engine, box, zorsts, rads and all plumbing, front susp incl rack, column & brake pipes. You can see where I'm going with this... just a rear brake pipe, handbrake cable, speed sensor wire... and a dozen bolts? Rear suspension & diff off and then I could get the chassis blasted and recoated properly with no further need to attend to it in my lifetime (possibly).
Downside is that I am (well, was...) only a couple of weeks off being back on the road and this will add probably a couple of months to that...
Could anyone that's done this please advise what bolts are at the rear (presumably hidden behind the fuel tank?) and inside (do the carpets and dash all have to come out?) Really didn't want to do this now, but if I knew in March what I know now... I would've happily done it then! I hate POR15, it's so bloody pernickity... I swear I'll never use it again!
Probable cost of blasting/zinc & powder coating? Recommendations in the South? General tips and body lifting points?
Thanks,
Rik
Since you now have a fully rebuilt engine, I can see the attraction of fitting it in a fully refurbed chassis.
This inevitably means you will be fitting new suspension, and the prospect of refitting a tired interior (if any parts of your interior are tired - I don't know) will be too painful to consider.
I wish you well, but I doubt this will be a short journey.
This inevitably means you will be fitting new suspension, and the prospect of refitting a tired interior (if any parts of your interior are tired - I don't know) will be too painful to consider.
I wish you well, but I doubt this will be a short journey.
Thanks for the help (and good wishes) so far, Chaps.
As I feared, extensive internal strip... whilst not being able to fully open the doors.... hmmm...
All the suspension is excellent, having been re-powdercoated and poly-bushed only a short while before I bought it. The front came off very easily (one lump per side) and I have no reason to think that the rear won't be similar.
The interior is good-to-very-good, this is where my reluctance lies; I know what happens to stuck-down carpet when it's pulled up...
I anticipated that a body-lift would be needed at some stage during my ownership (outriggers dented due to careless jacking, some rust, but no holes yet), I was just hoping it would be a few years away...
As I feared, extensive internal strip... whilst not being able to fully open the doors.... hmmm...
All the suspension is excellent, having been re-powdercoated and poly-bushed only a short while before I bought it. The front came off very easily (one lump per side) and I have no reason to think that the rear won't be similar.
The interior is good-to-very-good, this is where my reluctance lies; I know what happens to stuck-down carpet when it's pulled up...
I anticipated that a body-lift would be needed at some stage during my ownership (outriggers dented due to careless jacking, some rust, but no holes yet), I was just hoping it would be a few years away...
Twinkam, I got carried away with mine, two years in and still has the engine out. If you do a body lift you end up changing everything like me. Whilst it's off may as well change everything was my thought process. I have virtually done all the work my self. I think the biggest negative is the time it takes, if you do it yourself not the cost. I am desperate for a drive but iv probably got another year yet to complete the project
The body is in the process of coming off of mine after, a bit like like you, looking forward at an empty engine bay, looking behind me at a bumper pack of POR15 prep/paint/top and thinking "No. That's going back to the shop."
I have gotten at every bolt without the massively extensive strip that was shown in the above picture, and my car much more resembles the guide. When I drop the seats back in to close up shop for the day, apart from the console being forward and at a daft angle, you'd not know a major operation is taking place. It'll soon be externally adorned by my scaffold/fence post 4-post lift and at that point the absence of wheels will also be a bit more of a clue to passers-by that the car is being worked on.
I'm approaching this with a different school of thought to many, largely because of funds but also a little bit because of sanity.
If whilst my engine was out I was just doing the POR15 treatment as I had originally planned, everything would have been left alone. My suspension, bushes, interior, calipers, fuel lines, brake lines, driveshafts, steering rack etc etc etc would have remained "As-was" and I'd have had to have dealt with whichever plans they held for me in due time. Exactly as if I were doing no work at all to the car.
I've had a few conversations around this with various TVR people and the fact that I'm now extracting the chassis and getting it powder coated doesn't necessarily have to change much of that. I'm replacing the obvious (Fuel lines, brake lines etc - anything that can't be gotten at with the body on), but essentially so far as the chassis goes I'm just fetching the corners off, putting them to one side and then a while later, putting them back on.
Nice new engine, nice new chassis, 18 year old wishbones
.
But - they are fine. With a wire brush and some of the POR15 I did keep they will look more presentable than they do at the moment at least. The only reason for replacement currently would be aesthetic.
I'm not flush enough to replace perfectly functional components for the sake of prettiness. I am spending IRO £10k as is at the moment.
You say you're fed up, but hopefully I'll be able to post up some feedback on my experience of doing it in the most minimalist way I can so as you can see exactly how far you really need to go down the Total Vehicle Restoration route that many people mockingly say TVR stands for.
I might be heavily chastised, berated, banned from the PH Cerbera fraternity, but I think something is always better than nothing, and I'm doing the big somethings.
I have gotten at every bolt without the massively extensive strip that was shown in the above picture, and my car much more resembles the guide. When I drop the seats back in to close up shop for the day, apart from the console being forward and at a daft angle, you'd not know a major operation is taking place. It'll soon be externally adorned by my scaffold/fence post 4-post lift and at that point the absence of wheels will also be a bit more of a clue to passers-by that the car is being worked on.
I'm approaching this with a different school of thought to many, largely because of funds but also a little bit because of sanity.
If whilst my engine was out I was just doing the POR15 treatment as I had originally planned, everything would have been left alone. My suspension, bushes, interior, calipers, fuel lines, brake lines, driveshafts, steering rack etc etc etc would have remained "As-was" and I'd have had to have dealt with whichever plans they held for me in due time. Exactly as if I were doing no work at all to the car.
I've had a few conversations around this with various TVR people and the fact that I'm now extracting the chassis and getting it powder coated doesn't necessarily have to change much of that. I'm replacing the obvious (Fuel lines, brake lines etc - anything that can't be gotten at with the body on), but essentially so far as the chassis goes I'm just fetching the corners off, putting them to one side and then a while later, putting them back on.
Nice new engine, nice new chassis, 18 year old wishbones
. But - they are fine. With a wire brush and some of the POR15 I did keep they will look more presentable than they do at the moment at least. The only reason for replacement currently would be aesthetic.
I'm not flush enough to replace perfectly functional components for the sake of prettiness. I am spending IRO £10k as is at the moment.
You say you're fed up, but hopefully I'll be able to post up some feedback on my experience of doing it in the most minimalist way I can so as you can see exactly how far you really need to go down the Total Vehicle Restoration route that many people mockingly say TVR stands for.
I might be heavily chastised, berated, banned from the PH Cerbera fraternity, but I think something is always better than nothing, and I'm doing the big somethings.
NuddyRap said:
Nice new engine, nice new chassis, 18 year old wishbones .
But - they are fine. With a wire brush and some of the POR15 I did keep they will look more presentable than they do at the moment at least. The only reason for replacement currently would be aesthetic.
That's what I thought too.. But - they are fine. With a wire brush and some of the POR15 I did keep they will look more presentable than they do at the moment at least. The only reason for replacement currently would be aesthetic.
But a year or so after having them blasted, coated and rebushed, I had to replace them.
Yeah, I don't mind that as in say a year's time I should hopefully have been able to save up a few £ to cover it if required.
I'm not going as far as stripping, blasting and coating because I know they will have to be replaced at some point, just not yet. When the bend gets to them, I'll change them but at the moment they're straight.
I'm not going as far as stripping, blasting and coating because I know they will have to be replaced at some point, just not yet. When the bend gets to them, I'll change them but at the moment they're straight.
Right, my head's in a better place now.
Thank you all for your advice and good wishes, especially Tanguero, who from the start advised me against using POR15 (or Satan's Spittle as I now call it).
I am proceding with a full body lift and professional recoating of the chassis. I will be back some time later!
Thank you all for your advice and good wishes, especially Tanguero, who from the start advised me against using POR15 (or Satan's Spittle as I now call it).
I am proceding with a full body lift and professional recoating of the chassis. I will be back some time later!
TwinKam said:
Right, my head's in a better place now.
Thank you all for your advice and good wishes, especially Tanguero, who from the start advised me against using POR15 (or Satan's Spittle as I now call it).
I am proceding with a full body lift and professional recoating of the chassis. I will be back some time later!
I quite rate POR 15, especially the two part top coatThank you all for your advice and good wishes, especially Tanguero, who from the start advised me against using POR15 (or Satan's Spittle as I now call it).
I am proceding with a full body lift and professional recoating of the chassis. I will be back some time later!
http://www.frost.co.uk/brands/por15/por15-whitecot...
Just wear old clothes/overalls and gloves
I prepared it meticulously, taking no chances, cutting no corners, as I didn't want to do it twice... ...using their own (overpriced) 'Degreaser' and 'Metal Prep', a coat of silver and then a coat of grey 'Rust Preventative'. This was to be followed by the white top coat(s), but I never got that far....it bubbled up. 
I believe that this happens when it cures too fast to let the gas out before it skins. It may have been too hot or too humid or both. No matter, if one has to refer to a thermometer and a hygrometer before using, that is too pernickety a product for me and my world.
That and the difficulty in painting behind tubes, making sure that you don't miss a spot. It makes painting domestic radiators seem like a walk in the park.
Oh, and that you have to recoat before the previous coat dries. Think about it... 4 coats with 4-5 hours between... bloody ridiculous.
I'm sure that it works great on pick-up beds (their own demo) and even relatively 'complex' things like wishbones (off the car) but only if you pick the right (20+ hour) day!
I am now convinced that there is only one way to 'paint' a chassis... and that's get someone else to do it!
(see, I'm OK about it now ...right, where did I put my Diazepam?....)
...using their own (overpriced) 'Degreaser' and 'Metal Prep', a coat of silver and then a coat of grey 'Rust Preventative'. This was to be followed by the white top coat(s), but I never got that far....it bubbled up. I believe that this happens when it cures too fast to let the gas out before it skins. It may have been too hot or too humid or both. No matter, if one has to refer to a thermometer and a hygrometer before using, that is too pernickety a product for me and my world.
That and the difficulty in painting behind tubes, making sure that you don't miss a spot. It makes painting domestic radiators seem like a walk in the park.
Oh, and that you have to recoat before the previous coat dries. Think about it... 4 coats with 4-5 hours between... bloody ridiculous.
I'm sure that it works great on pick-up beds (their own demo) and even relatively 'complex' things like wishbones (off the car) but only if you pick the right (20+ hour) day!
I am now convinced that there is only one way to 'paint' a chassis... and that's get someone else to do it!
(see, I'm OK about it now ...right, where did I put my Diazepam?....)I think POR15 is great for spot repairs, but I'd never consider it for a chassis refurb.
In fact I completely agree with you:
In fact I completely agree with you:
TwinKam said:
I am now convinced that there is only one way to 'paint' a chassis... and that's get someone else to do it! (see, I'm OK about it now ...right, where did I put my Diazepam?....)
When I had my wishbones refurbed, I had them powder coated, I know it won't last, but I now fully accept that wishbones are consumables. (see, I'm OK about it now ...right, where did I put my Diazepam?....)TwinKam said:
I prepared it meticulously, taking no chances, cutting no corners, as I didn't want to do it twice... ...using their own (overpriced) 'Degreaser' and 'Metal Prep', a coat of silver and then a coat of grey 'Rust Preventative'. This was to be followed by the white top coat(s), but I never got that far....it bubbled up.
I believe that this happens when it cures too fast to let the gas out before it skins. It may have been too hot or too humid or both. No matter, if one has to refer to a thermometer and a hygrometer before using, that is too pernickety a product for me and my world.
That and the difficulty in painting behind tubes, making sure that you don't miss a spot. It makes painting domestic radiators seem like a walk in the park.
Oh, and that you have to recoat before the previous coat dries. Think about it... 4 coats with 4-5 hours between... bloody ridiculous.
I'm sure that it works great on pick-up beds (their own demo) and even relatively 'complex' things like wishbones (off the car) but only if you pick the right (20+ hour) day!
I am now convinced that there is only one way to 'paint' a chassis... and that's get someone else to do it! (see, I'm OK about it now ...right, where did I put my Diazepam?....)
I've used POR15 and found it pretty good.. Although the finish isn't amazing. ...using their own (overpriced) 'Degreaser' and 'Metal Prep', a coat of silver and then a coat of grey 'Rust Preventative'. This was to be followed by the white top coat(s), but I never got that far....it bubbled up. I believe that this happens when it cures too fast to let the gas out before it skins. It may have been too hot or too humid or both. No matter, if one has to refer to a thermometer and a hygrometer before using, that is too pernickety a product for me and my world.
That and the difficulty in painting behind tubes, making sure that you don't miss a spot. It makes painting domestic radiators seem like a walk in the park.
Oh, and that you have to recoat before the previous coat dries. Think about it... 4 coats with 4-5 hours between... bloody ridiculous.
I'm sure that it works great on pick-up beds (their own demo) and even relatively 'complex' things like wishbones (off the car) but only if you pick the right (20+ hour) day!
I am now convinced that there is only one way to 'paint' a chassis... and that's get someone else to do it!
(see, I'm OK about it now ...right, where did I put my Diazepam?....)I've now moved on to www.rust.co.uk 's version, and it is messy to mix up (2 pack), but the results are much better!
Hi
Blasted - Zinga - top coat of choice thats how mine is done
if the top coat gets damaged just touch up ,if damage goes down to the metal just feather the area out and touch up the Zinger [this will heal itself] then top coat ,no problems with heat etc
engine rebuild and body off took me two years on my speed six !!
Blasted - Zinga - top coat of choice thats how mine is done
if the top coat gets damaged just touch up ,if damage goes down to the metal just feather the area out and touch up the Zinger [this will heal itself] then top coat ,no problems with heat etc
engine rebuild and body off took me two years on my speed six !!
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