Another clutch disaster!
Discussion
Thought I had been through everything with the clutch.
Failed Master cylinder. Replaced.
Failed Slave cylinder, relevant part of bell housing heavily scored so went with remote Tilton slave.
Pipe to slave cylinder accidentally knocked during gearbox work. Clutch went on way home from service.
Clutch plates wearing thin. Replaced by clutch specialist in Leeds.
One year on - this happens................
Anyone seen this and ideas as to cause welcome!
Failed Master cylinder. Replaced.
Failed Slave cylinder, relevant part of bell housing heavily scored so went with remote Tilton slave.
Pipe to slave cylinder accidentally knocked during gearbox work. Clutch went on way home from service.
Clutch plates wearing thin. Replaced by clutch specialist in Leeds.
One year on - this happens................
Anyone seen this and ideas as to cause welcome!
Good questions. It does look as if it has been rescued from the Titanic, doesn't it. The car had done a low mileage when I got it, around 24000 over 16 years from memory, so perhaps it was the original clutch.
The clutch was removed by my local garage today so I will ask more about the retaining bolts and flywheel.
After the Tilton was installed the only issue I found with the clutch was that it was randomly either heavy or light in operation. There was no rhyme or reason, i.e. didn't matter whether from cold or hot, length or type of journey etc.
When it failed this time it had gone through some heavy city traffic. I parked up for a hospital visit for 40 min and I remember that when I returned the gear lever was really hot - strange. Parked up again after 5 minutes. Then on restarting clutch squealing, some squeal even when disengaged. 10 minutes later clutch failed. Parked up at my parents place in Edinburgh before setting off for home. Clutch pedal had returned - just enough to get us on the road home - but then failed permanently. Had interesting journey back to Ayrshire in 4th gear!!
The clutch was removed by my local garage today so I will ask more about the retaining bolts and flywheel.
After the Tilton was installed the only issue I found with the clutch was that it was randomly either heavy or light in operation. There was no rhyme or reason, i.e. didn't matter whether from cold or hot, length or type of journey etc.
When it failed this time it had gone through some heavy city traffic. I parked up for a hospital visit for 40 min and I remember that when I returned the gear lever was really hot - strange. Parked up again after 5 minutes. Then on restarting clutch squealing, some squeal even when disengaged. 10 minutes later clutch failed. Parked up at my parents place in Edinburgh before setting off for home. Clutch pedal had returned - just enough to get us on the road home - but then failed permanently. Had interesting journey back to Ayrshire in 4th gear!!
Thanks guys. Will report back when I find out more over the next few days. Will need new clutch - currently in short supply btw as in AP Racing haven't said when they are resuming production - so maybe a Helix - but will have to do the Sherlock stuff to stop this from happening again. Any comments from others who have had the Tilton conversion?
Is it my imagination (as I am only used to Chimaera clutches), but am I looking at the ends of the snapped off fingers in one of the photos? Those fingers, spinning loose around the clutch area, could leave a whole load of marks.
I ask because a friend with a Chimaera with a heavy (and starting to be noisy) clutch discovered just in time that a problem with the release bearing (we think) had all but worn through said fingers. Now replaced with a new clutch from TVR parts and he cannot believe how light it is in comparison.
I ask because a friend with a Chimaera with a heavy (and starting to be noisy) clutch discovered just in time that a problem with the release bearing (we think) had all but worn through said fingers. Now replaced with a new clutch from TVR parts and he cannot believe how light it is in comparison.
Just looked again and realised all the fingers are gone, no wonder I didn't recognise it as looking like a clutch. I would say the thrust/release bearing dried up which generated the heat, then it seized which meant the clutch fingers were grinding against the bearing, ripping them off the plate. They then got flung around inside the bell housing. I would imagine your clutch pedal was stuck in the floor? Nasty!
The clutch specialist in Leeds [Mick - very helpful], has had a look at the photos and agrees with you guys that the thrust bearing has caused the clutch to grenade.
The possibilities are 1. Wrong design of bearing (tilton part) 2. Faulty bearing and 3. Problem with setup and preload was applied to bearing.
Any advice on setting up the tilton slave and bearing, from those who have done it, with sepcial reference to avoiding scenario 3, would be appreciated.
In process for ordering a helix clutch, as there is no fixed date for the ap clutches becoming available.
Cheers!
The possibilities are 1. Wrong design of bearing (tilton part) 2. Faulty bearing and 3. Problem with setup and preload was applied to bearing.
Any advice on setting up the tilton slave and bearing, from those who have done it, with sepcial reference to avoiding scenario 3, would be appreciated.
In process for ordering a helix clutch, as there is no fixed date for the ap clutches becoming available.
Cheers!
All I can suggest is following the product installation instructions to set up the correct clearance here http://tiltonracing.com/product/6000-series-hydrau... and to avoid over-stroking the clutch so maybe look at a clutch pedal stop.
DCerebrate]The clutch specialist in Leeds [Mick - very helpful said:
, has had a look at the photos and agrees with you guys that the thrust bearing has caused the clutch to grenade.
The possibilities are 1. Wrong design of bearing (tilton part) 2. Faulty bearing and 3. Problem with setup and preload was applied to bearing.
Any advice on setting up the tilton slave and bearing, from those who have done it, with sepcial reference to avoiding scenario 3, would be appreciated.
In process for ordering a helix clutch, as there is no fixed date for the ap clutches becoming available.
Cheers!
I'm not an expert by any means but if the bearing is pressing too hard against the fingers when the clutch is disengaged, this is going to put a lot of stress on it and lead to premature failure as it's not designed for that. It should only need to act as a bearing when there is some pressure applied to the clutch pedal, the rest of the time it shouldn't need to do anything (or not much).The possibilities are 1. Wrong design of bearing (tilton part) 2. Faulty bearing and 3. Problem with setup and preload was applied to bearing.
Any advice on setting up the tilton slave and bearing, from those who have done it, with sepcial reference to avoiding scenario 3, would be appreciated.
In process for ordering a helix clutch, as there is no fixed date for the ap clutches becoming available.
Cheers!
It sounds like the resting position of the clutch is applying some pressure for some reason (not sure what your outboard slave arrangement is). It's like you're driving with your foot resting on the clutch all the time.
Edit: in other words maybe cause #3
Edited by FarmyardPants on Thursday 28th September 19:06
DCerebrate said:
Yep, TVR parts, Racetech and Powers are all out of stock. Though Powers might have a small number, just for work on cars they have in or are awaiting engine rebuilds.
Is that an interim glitch or are we talking long term supply problem ? Mine will need replacing soon.Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff