Spare 4.2 engine?
Discussion
FarmyardPants said:
Warranty.. so you're going to stump up for the new crank? For the peace of mind I think you're right to just bite the billet..
Groan.I've given the go ahead for the full work. Theres a certain responsibility as there isn't many original ones left. At the rate I'm using it, thats at least another 10 years of worry free motoring.
I might have got off light. A friend with a Tamora has just had another S6 engine strip down, only done a few years ago, 20K miles ish. Needs a complete top end overhaul at around £6.5k
Gerradi said:
Byker28i said:
My preferred route is to get my engine rebuilt. It keeps the original engine with the original car, gives it a 3 year warranty
I'm just trying to work out how to afford it...
Sorry to hear this, you took your time with the Chassis & the car has been cherished. So what is the russh , just take a bit longer & you will end up with a very top Cerbera . Its an original car & best keep it that way after all the money spent to date, seems silly to dilute it now .What ever you do good luck with it.I'm just trying to work out how to afford it...
Body off chassis restoration, so many parts replaced at this point, all new fuel lines, brake lines, cooling pipes, stainless water manifold, bushes, bearings, stainless nuts & bolts etc. 4 a4 pages of parts alone!
Refurbished wheels, new brake disks all around, CL pads all around.
New alloy radiator, air con rad rebuilt, ACT tuned manifolds, ACT quiet exhaust system, Joolz mapped engine and inlet work,
Recent respray in original factory paint/colour , interior tidied. Complete new clutch system with Helix, new upgraded starter motor, wiper motor...
DVD player with reversing camera and DAB radio/ipod connectivity. Dashcam recording system front and rear.
Camera system is a new addition - Kowloon K1S, tiny hidden cameras and an easily removable tiny recorder.
I think the engine build will take me to around £30K for 11.5 years ownership, but it'll be like new....
I put £250 a month away in savings, as people said it cost £3k a year to run on average.
I've had the car over 11 years, so sort of still quids in...
I'd pay more than that on depreciation or lease if I swapped cars every 3 years, at least I've something of value still
Head vs heart, thats the dilemma these cars generate. The overall experience of driving it, the other owners, the experiences you get just outweigh anything else...
I've had the car over 11 years, so sort of still quids in...
I'd pay more than that on depreciation or lease if I swapped cars every 3 years, at least I've something of value still
Head vs heart, thats the dilemma these cars generate. The overall experience of driving it, the other owners, the experiences you get just outweigh anything else...
Quick update on this - I'm still waiting for the engine to be returned from the builder. I've been given 4 different dates so far for completion and delivery but it's still not arrived. There's been delays all the way 
Bit disappointing really, I've not had the car since late October just waiting for this to be done. Just starting to cancel plans I had for the next couple of months as it'll have to be run in...
Bit disappointing really, I've not had the car since late October just waiting for this to be done. Just starting to cancel plans I had for the next couple of months as it'll have to be run in...
Engine still not back, something found wrong with it, this is for an engine thats supposed to be all back together tested and been delivered over a week ago.
I've lost all confidence now in every getting a good engine back promptly, losing interest and starting to seriously think of selling it.
I've lost all confidence now in every getting a good engine back promptly, losing interest and starting to seriously think of selling it.
Chimp871 said:
Truly feel for you and your P&J mate. Gets harder to remain objective on it, but you'd loose a lot now if you sold it as an incomplete car.
Like you said they need to explain why now it has low cost compression if you've installed new liners etc. I suggest you start getting answers in writing from them.
Low compression was the original fault, it's got something else wrong. I'm trying to get the full story but of course Easter is another delay. Like you said they need to explain why now it has low cost compression if you've installed new liners etc. I suggest you start getting answers in writing from them.
Just venting at all the disappointment...
ukkid35 said:
Exhaust port covers, but no intake covers - weird
Any description of the work done and the issues encountered?
To be fair it as all wrapped tightly with clingfilm which was removed to look at it.Any description of the work done and the issues encountered?
New large main bearing crank with associated machining etc, aux shaft upgrade, converted the front crankshaft oil seal housing to the later type as the old pulley adaptor had fretted on the crank nose as the bolt had been loose with the washer missing.
The cylinder heads caused issues as the casting was oversize and oval for 2 of the valve guides, it's sugegsted these must have been loose for most of the engines life. Two of the guides fell out when the engine was dismantled.
Then it's new everything else, camshafts, valves, everything uprated to the latest spec etc.
However it's the same price I paid for the car 11 years ago...
ukkid35 said:
Byker28i said:
The cylinder heads caused issues as the casting was oversize and oval for 2 of the valve guides, it's sugegsted these must have been loose for most of the engines life. Two of the guides fell out when the engine was dismantled.
Am I right in thinking you treat the engine gently - no track days, drag racing etc?Do you know which cylinders and which valves were affected?
Since it was suggested this was long standing, are they saying that there was no other fault that might have cause the valve guide failure?
It would have been good to see photos of the remedial work on the heads
The car has always been warmed up fully before any spirited driving was attempted, even on trackdays. A few gentle laps, building up before giving it beans.
It's always serviced every year just before MOT even if the mileage was low, sometimes only 2-3K a year. I had no indication there was anything wrong as the engine was strong. It was discovered to have slightly low compression on cylinders 1&2 when it went in to have the coils replaced, following a misfire from a very wet weekend in Wales.
Engine was just under 60K miles.
BIG DUNC said:
It must be fantastic to have it back.
I hope fitting it goes smoothly and you get to drive it soon.
I'm away in a week, so it may be a couple of weeks before i get it back. I'd hoped for this weekend but that would be a rush and I'd rather not a rush job, not after all this time already.I hope fitting it goes smoothly and you get to drive it soon.
ukkid35 said:
Worth converting to front mounted dipstick?
Nah, it's still mostly original, so the rear mounted dipstick is fine by me. It goes with the history.Engine bay needs a clean, chassis will get a full clean especially where the exhaust was blowing, then it'll be checked over for any rust spots or damage and sorted then clear waxoiled again. Some new additional heat shielding is going in on the chassis rails and around the wiring etc
Chassis rails are dirty due to a blowing exaust that couldn't be seen. The discoloration is from the clear waxoil getting heated by the exhaust, not the expansion tank.
Tho counteract this it's having heat shielding added to this area once it's all cleaned off.
Meanwhile I've spent the morning polishing a turd, the other side water rail, which has come up ok for a 20 year old part.
Tho counteract this it's having heat shielding added to this area once it's all cleaned off.
Meanwhile I've spent the morning polishing a turd, the other side water rail, which has come up ok for a 20 year old part.
Bloody lovely.
Slave cylinder seals went and were slightly leaking oil. Bearing in mind this has only done 5000 miles since being replaced and the car has been off the road for 6 weeks last year for the respray, since end of Oct for the engine, I was less than happy so TVR parts have replaced it.
I also had to clean all the connectors in the drivers door as the inner switch was intermittant.
Got it back on Friday after that was replaced and have been driving it around adding mileage to run it in, mostly between 2-3000 revs with the occasional squirt to 4000 revs. No stuttering, just works.
Yesterday woke up early so took the car for a 60min run down the motorway and back at 3K revs in 5th, just to add miles and heat soak it. It ran faultlessly, didn't get hot, oil pressure nice and high.
It's gone to the detailers today to be polished tomorrow to try to get rid of the scratches in the new paint, then weds will be getting the aircon topped up and that'll be it.
Slave cylinder seals went and were slightly leaking oil. Bearing in mind this has only done 5000 miles since being replaced and the car has been off the road for 6 weeks last year for the respray, since end of Oct for the engine, I was less than happy so TVR parts have replaced it.
I also had to clean all the connectors in the drivers door as the inner switch was intermittant.
Got it back on Friday after that was replaced and have been driving it around adding mileage to run it in, mostly between 2-3000 revs with the occasional squirt to 4000 revs. No stuttering, just works.
Yesterday woke up early so took the car for a 60min run down the motorway and back at 3K revs in 5th, just to add miles and heat soak it. It ran faultlessly, didn't get hot, oil pressure nice and high.
It's gone to the detailers today to be polished tomorrow to try to get rid of the scratches in the new paint, then weds will be getting the aircon topped up and that'll be it.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff