Oil seal

Author
Discussion

The Nige

Original Poster:

161 posts

190 months

Saturday 27th October 2018
quotequote all
Hi Guys

As you can see from the picture it’s leaking oil from the oil seal housing plate, I have a new seal but I am struggling to remove the rear plate, anyone got any tips for removing the plate.

Cheers

Nigel


The Nige

Original Poster:

161 posts

190 months

Saturday 27th October 2018
quotequote all
Looking at all the oil on the rear of the plate and the casing I don't think the oil seal was the problem. I will change it as it's off.


Jhonno

5,788 posts

142 months

Monday 29th October 2018
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Yeah, looks like it was a sealant issue, rather than a seal.

ukkid35

6,191 posts

174 months

Tuesday 30th October 2018
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Seems very odd that the sump has orange sealant and the block has black sealant

I can't see why that would be done as that would suggest that the seal retainer was in place when the sump was fitted, which would be bizarre


Edited by ukkid35 on Tuesday 30th October 08:19

TwinKam

2,998 posts

96 months

Tuesday 30th October 2018
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
Seems very odd that the sump has orange sealant and the block has black sealant

I can't see why that would be done as that would suggest that the seal retainer was in place when the sump was fitted, which would be bizarre


Edited by ukkid35 on Tuesday 30th October 08:19
...but that would explain the leak...

The Nige

Original Poster:

161 posts

190 months

Tuesday 30th October 2018
quotequote all
I’m struggling to get my head around it, as there was only a little bead of black sealant on the block section and plenty of red on the sump. The reason for stripping it down was because of the amount of oil leaking. Once I have sorted this out I will then be removing the front timing cover as that is leaking in more than one place.
Before putting the new seal and retainer back on has anyone any heads up on anything else to be done. I am awaiting delivery of a new spigot bearing.

Cheers

Nigel

TwinKam

2,998 posts

96 months

Tuesday 30th October 2018
quotequote all
Personally, I wouldn't be refitting the rear until I'd had the front apart; you could find things there that might necessitate the removal of the sump...
Just sayin'.

The Nige

Original Poster:

161 posts

190 months

Wednesday 31st October 2018
quotequote all
I think you might be righ TwinKam, looking at the amount of oil staining around the sump it could well have to come apart again.
Can anyone clarify that this replacement spigot bearing is ok, as you can see from the image it's considerably shorter (331262)


Cheers

Nigel

Jhonno

5,788 posts

142 months

Friday 2nd November 2018
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Iirc the one I removed from my crank was shorter like your replacement one.

TwinKam

2,998 posts

96 months

Friday 2nd November 2018
quotequote all
Does the longer bearing have full length needles, or is there a seal at one end? The seal (fitted outer-most) prevents clutch dust entering the bearing. I would aim for this type, if available.

The Nige

Original Poster:

161 posts

190 months

Friday 2nd November 2018
quotequote all
Thank you guys, I have another bearing on order to check against those two.
I am now at a position to re assemble, new front and rear oil seals and I intend to use the ganville high temp gasket seal. Any more pointers before I carry on.



Cheers

Nigel thumbup

Jhonno

5,788 posts

142 months

Friday 2nd November 2018
quotequote all
TwinKam said:
Does the longer bearing have full length needles, or is there a seal at one end? The seal (fitted outer-most) prevents clutch dust entering the bearing. I would aim for this type, if available.
.2RS type.

Edited by Jhonno on Friday 2nd November 15:38

ukkid35

6,191 posts

174 months

Friday 2nd November 2018
quotequote all
There is a tapped hole just beneath the point where the tensioner bolt meets the tensioner

That is an ideal place to use to wedge against holding the tensioner taut

I recommend using that rather than a cable tie if you are turning the crank

I also discovered recently that the tensioner bolt actually has shims inside under the pin, so that, rather than external washers is how to adjust chain tension

spitfire4v8

3,996 posts

182 months

Friday 2nd November 2018
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Is that sealant properly oil proof ? Loctite 5980 is what I use.

The Nige

Original Poster:

161 posts

190 months

Wednesday 28th November 2018
quotequote all
Thanks for the feedback, next step, I have a raceproved clutch slave that I swapped out a few years back and was toying with the idea of putting new seals on it and putting it back in the Cerb. I have searched in all the usual places but it doesn’t look as if the seals are available.
Now I have a new set of seals for the standard TVR slave and looking at Julian64 image below all that is missing is the yellow seal. I have done a bit of phoning about and it seems that the yellow seal is 50 X 56 X 3mm square cut o ring but should be made of EPDM. To save me buying a complete new kit does anyone know if such a seal is available individually.



Cheers

Nigel

pmessling

2,285 posts

204 months

Thursday 29th November 2018
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I had to send my slave to race proved ( although a different company now) to have the seals replaced after searching for them and coming up with nothing.

Jhonno

5,788 posts

142 months

Thursday 29th November 2018
quotequote all
The Nige said:
Thanks for the feedback, next step, I have a raceproved clutch slave that I swapped out a few years back and was toying with the idea of putting new seals on it and putting it back in the Cerb. I have searched in all the usual places but it doesn’t look as if the seals are available.
Now I have a new set of seals for the standard TVR slave and looking at Julian64 image below all that is missing is the yellow seal. I have done a bit of phoning about and it seems that the yellow seal is 50 X 56 X 3mm square cut o ring but should be made of EPDM. To save me buying a complete new kit does anyone know if such a seal is available individually.



Cheers

Nigel
Probably better off finding the seals in Viton!