water oil pump separation
Discussion
ukkid35 said:
Seal is R23 12x32x7
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163867307764
I'm pretty sure the bearing is also a 6201 as before
Thanks Paul. The PAS bearing was pretty much seized. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163867307764
I'm pretty sure the bearing is also a 6201 as before
Putting it all back together today.
After pressing the front impeller on the shaft and through the front bearing there's quite some resistance in getting the impeller & shaft to turn. I followed the overhaul and kept the gap at .02 to .04", but it seems the impeller is crushing the cup style spring seal (it is also pressed in).
Just wondered if this was normal?
After pressing the front impeller on the shaft and through the front bearing there's quite some resistance in getting the impeller & shaft to turn. I followed the overhaul and kept the gap at .02 to .04", but it seems the impeller is crushing the cup style spring seal (it is also pressed in).
Just wondered if this was normal?
Paul, I just disassembled the water pump side.
As you push the impeller into the housing the ceramic/spring seal push against each other and should offer some resistance. What I noticed though was the metal collar on the spring seal side had compressed slightly, from pushing the impeller into the housing to get the gap of .02 - .05". Hope that makes sense.
I'm using the overhaul manual.
As you push the impeller into the housing the ceramic/spring seal push against each other and should offer some resistance. What I noticed though was the metal collar on the spring seal side had compressed slightly, from pushing the impeller into the housing to get the gap of .02 - .05". Hope that makes sense.
I'm using the overhaul manual.
Chimp871 said:
fixed the rubbing issue and now the shaft moves nice and free and impellers are gaped.
Oil rotors next, tolerances see fine (0.05-0.1 mm), I see scoring on the bottom side of rotor, unless anyone has an opinion I'm going to ignore it.
The power and capacity of that pump is hugeOil rotors next, tolerances see fine (0.05-0.1 mm), I see scoring on the bottom side of rotor, unless anyone has an opinion I'm going to ignore it.
I am going to have to fit a shorter spring because with new bearing shells and new pump rotor/outer, I am now seeing 85psi even when the oil is up to temp
So, I think you are safe to ignore any wear/scoring, unless the pressure was very low before the rebuild
Out of interest, what was causing the mechanism to stiffen, and how did you free it up?
I mentioned last week it was very stiff to turn and noticed on the cup shaped spring seal, the internal collar had collapsed/damaged. I'll take the blame on this one as I may have been a little too keen with the press.
I got another seal from tvr parts and was more cautious 2nd time round. Very smooth and with the gaps.
Pressure before was fine.
The pumps really are not difficult to overhaul, it's the leap of faith getting the impellers off and sourcing all the finnickety seals you need, that was probably the most frustrating part. It's almost done now, just need a button head screw for front plate and some petroleum jelly to pack the oil rotor.
Then its time to rebuild the engine.
I got another seal from tvr parts and was more cautious 2nd time round. Very smooth and with the gaps.
Pressure before was fine.
The pumps really are not difficult to overhaul, it's the leap of faith getting the impellers off and sourcing all the finnickety seals you need, that was probably the most frustrating part. It's almost done now, just need a button head screw for front plate and some petroleum jelly to pack the oil rotor.
Then its time to rebuild the engine.
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