'98 Cerbera, chassis restoration.
Discussion
TwinKam said:
Just had these bits replated. Is the 'L' shaped bracket for securing the speed sensor wiring? I can't see any other use for it.
I've just had to refer back to my old refurb pics and it's not the speed sensor wiring. They sit either side of the diff, with the RH one sitting underneath the speed sensor mount.You can see them in the pics here:
https://www.douglasvalley.co.uk/prestige-parts/tvr...
M
Yes, the L shaped thing is for the wiring, it also serves as a spacer/washer to even up the speed sensor bracket.
I've located my sensor on the near side so don't use it to hold the wire.
Edited by Rufus Roughcut on Wednesday 17th March 15:17
Edited by Rufus Roughcut on Wednesday 17th March 15:18
Now it's clean. 
TwinKam said:
As mentioned previously, my rear ARB has gouged into the inner wheel arches on both sides, so I intend to relieve some of the excess metal around the eyes. It is SO beefy there that I can't foresee it causing any problems, but as anyone done this and regretted it?
Disconnect it and tie wrap it up out of the way, you will get a huge improvement in handling by doing this.Well yes, I know some of you have gone this route, others not, and of course at this point I have the option of simply not including it in the rebuild. But that is a one way street, or so I believe.
I kinda like things standard/not obviously or dramatically modified, so a slimmed-down version of it will be refitted, I can always pop the links out at a later stage for a true back-to-back comparison.
I kinda like things standard/not obviously or dramatically modified, so a slimmed-down version of it will be refitted, I can always pop the links out at a later stage for a true back-to-back comparison.
There's a few threads on here about rear ARBs, Paul. It seems that the track-day guys mostly advicate removing them, or rather disconnecting the links and tie-wrapping the ends to something (you can guess my feelings on that...).
I've read that the bar itself can't be removed intact with the body on, so some have cut it in two and removed it.
The problem with this is, that not only is it not reversible (without lifting the body), but it is a specific MoT failure ('suspension component missing') and therefore might also invalidate your insurance if noticed (let alone considered to be a contributory factor) upon inspection after a big claim.
I've read that the bar itself can't be removed intact with the body on, so some have cut it in two and removed it.
The problem with this is, that not only is it not reversible (without lifting the body), but it is a specific MoT failure ('suspension component missing') and therefore might also invalidate your insurance if noticed (let alone considered to be a contributory factor) upon inspection after a big claim.
Technically it probably would be an MOT failure.
But.. What about all those cars years ago that came with or without a rear roll bar (an E30 for example).
If you removed and told the insurance I don't see an issue? I removed mine and it does feel like it works better on the road.
You could get a slim one made if you wished.
But.. What about all those cars years ago that came with or without a rear roll bar (an E30 for example).
If you removed and told the insurance I don't see an issue? I removed mine and it does feel like it works better on the road.
You could get a slim one made if you wished.
So my chassis has now been welded and is ready to go to paint. Rich & Steve @ Southways have done a great job, not just replacing the outriggers, but also repairing some excessively thinned areas in the main longitudinal rails and the entire rearmost lower cross tube, a victim (according to Rich) of my unusually oil-tight diff 
I'm sorting through what needs to go to be painted along with the chassis; some arms and brackets I have had to bite the bullet and simply replace.
But what do you guys make of these front lower arms? They not conventionally 'pot-hole' bent (like the bananas ukkid replaced, rather they look as though the coilovers were bolted in with insufficient spacers... or are they actually meant to be shaped like this? ...they are very gently and regularly 'distorted', and both evenly matched, but it would have been far easier for TVR to have made them straight.
I can try to wind them out with some studding and nuts (the weaker side should in theory move first again), but if anyone has a good one to hand I would like confirmation of the distance between the two bosses; mine are IRO 35.5mm.
Cheers!
Rik
I'm sorting through what needs to go to be painted along with the chassis; some arms and brackets I have had to bite the bullet and simply replace.
But what do you guys make of these front lower arms? They not conventionally 'pot-hole' bent (like the bananas ukkid replaced, rather they look as though the coilovers were bolted in with insufficient spacers... or are they actually meant to be shaped like this? ...they are very gently and regularly 'distorted', and both evenly matched, but it would have been far easier for TVR to have made them straight.
I can try to wind them out with some studding and nuts (the weaker side should in theory move first again), but if anyone has a good one to hand I would like confirmation of the distance between the two bosses; mine are IRO 35.5mm.
Cheers!
Rik
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