To Waxoyl or not......
Discussion
Just had mine on ramps - rust situation not good on my 99 cerbera, flaking paint all over. Spent week-end scraping, undercoating, painting and waxoiling as much of chassis as I could get to. My experience of TVR's is that if you fail to do this chassis will need replacing after car is 10-15 years old.
I did ours about a month ago, and after speaking to loads of people - the general opinion was just to brush off any loose cr*p, then spray liberally with wayoil.... Seems to work fine, and it's great to see water running off the chassis the same way it does the paint after a good polish... 
Corrosion basics...Corrosion starts as soon as moisture and iron get together. Salt and dissolved oxygen and carbon dioxide increases corrosion rates (oxygen has inverse solubility, the colder it is the more oxygen dissolves the faster the corrosion rate). If you paint over rust you are likely to trap in moisture, salt & air which allows the rusting process to continue unseen behind the paint. If you don't have time to remove rust properly don't paint just waxoyl. Waxoyl displaces the moisture and air from the metal surface giving you protection until the waxoyl wears away. I prefer to remove rust, paint and waxoyl as it lasts longer, waxoyl is really just there for the bits I can't get the paint to. Anyway thats what my O level chemistry teacher said..
A couple litres more than adequate. Heating waxoyl container up in warm water makes application easier. Some recommend dissolving in white spirit for spraying applications but I havent tried this. Take care not to apply to brake discs or exhaust!
>> Edited by mudstud on Wednesday 20th November 16:40
>> Edited by mudstud on Wednesday 20th November 16:41
>> Edited by mudstud on Wednesday 20th November 16:42
A couple litres more than adequate. Heating waxoyl container up in warm water makes application easier. Some recommend dissolving in white spirit for spraying applications but I havent tried this. Take care not to apply to brake discs or exhaust!
>> Edited by mudstud on Wednesday 20th November 16:40
>> Edited by mudstud on Wednesday 20th November 16:41
>> Edited by mudstud on Wednesday 20th November 16:42
I've just done my griff with waxoyl this weekend and I found that it came pouring out of the high pressure sprayer that came in the waxoyl kit. It has laid on really thick where I have sprayed. I have now found that the garage floor is well covered as the heat off the exhausts melts it. I painted the chipped bits of the chassis first with POR 15 anti rust paint, it sticks like sh*t to a blanket, as I found when some of it got in my hair, so hopefully this will keep the rust at bay on the areas where the waxoyl has melted.
i find it absolutely discgraceful that TVR get away with this kind of lack of corrosion protection, afterall how much have spent on these machines? on a 99MY car already - very poor. Don't get me wrong- i adore my 45 Cerbie but as far as robust engineering is concerned - it is let down by money pinching, these underfloor items should all be zinc plated, galvanised, powder- coated, what-ever... very poor!!!
I recon its well worth waxoyling a Cerbie, or indeed any TVR. Before I bought my Cerbie I went round all the second hand Tivvies in the garage - Griffs and Chimaeras mostly. Crawled underneath them with a torch. They were all starting to rust in the same places, on the chassis outriggers adjacent to the wheels, on the outriggers where the chassis is bolted to the body, and on the outer corner re-inforcing plates. Even young cars with less than 10k miles on the clock. Nothing serious of course, at this time, but if neglected, these cars would need major chassis repairs. I don't know what the guy at the garage thought as I crawled around on the floor - all the other customers were looking at the nice shiny bits on the upper parts of the cars.
What I've done with my Cerbera chassis is remove loose rust and paint, which only affected the some parts of the chassis outriggers. I then treated with a rust remover, like Jenolite (phosphoric acid works well, if you have access to lab supplies). Then coat with a good rust-inhibiting primer. Then add waxoyl-impregnated underseal to all the exposed bits, like the chassis outriggers, especially anything within the wheel splash zone. Let it dry for a day or two, and then spray or paint on more waxoyl. Also, waxoyl all the rest of the chassis and the metal bits (but don't get too much on the parts that get hot ....).
What I've done with my Cerbera chassis is remove loose rust and paint, which only affected the some parts of the chassis outriggers. I then treated with a rust remover, like Jenolite (phosphoric acid works well, if you have access to lab supplies). Then coat with a good rust-inhibiting primer. Then add waxoyl-impregnated underseal to all the exposed bits, like the chassis outriggers, especially anything within the wheel splash zone. Let it dry for a day or two, and then spray or paint on more waxoyl. Also, waxoyl all the rest of the chassis and the metal bits (but don't get too much on the parts that get hot ....).
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