Discussion
ThanksFrom the "Equivalent Parts Thread"
I've not done one on a Cerb, but it should be a case of undoing the studs, sliding driveshaft/cv to a more accessible place (although there isn't much room in there !), remove circlip on end of drive shaft, remove cv, replace boot, repack CV with grease, reinstall cv, reinstall circlip, bolt back together......
I'm sure someone on here will have done one though so can provide more insight !
Ireland said:
I can say with 100% certainty that the drive boots are Ford.
The main dealers had trouble getting them but I sourced them off an auto-factors.
The box said they'd suit a Ford GRANADA / SCORPIO / SIERRA.
The inner and outer ones are identical.
Looking at that pic, it looks like someone has tried to "fix" it previously with a jubilee clip The main dealers had trouble getting them but I sourced them off an auto-factors.
The box said they'd suit a Ford GRANADA / SCORPIO / SIERRA.
The inner and outer ones are identical.
I've not done one on a Cerb, but it should be a case of undoing the studs, sliding driveshaft/cv to a more accessible place (although there isn't much room in there !), remove circlip on end of drive shaft, remove cv, replace boot, repack CV with grease, reinstall cv, reinstall circlip, bolt back together......
I'm sure someone on here will have done one though so can provide more insight !
It's straightforward enough to do but it's adviseble to have the car on a lift / over a pit or you'll struggle big-time.
As per the post above you somply undo all the bolts that hold the drive in place.
You'll need an 8mm allen key (one of the socket-type ones that fits on the end of a ratchet gives better leverage).
You need to open them both at the diff and at the hub ends.
A tap (whack) of a rubber mallet may be needed to get the drive to move.
I did mine while the diff was out but you'll be able to get the drives out with a bit of manouvering even with the diff in place as the joints move along the length pf the drive quiet a bit.
You may have to remove a section of the exhaust for access.
Once they are out it's very easy to change the boots .....
- cut off the old boot
- remove the circlip
- slide off the CV joint (if it's full of crap you'll need to washi it with paraffin / diesel / etc)
- slide on the new boot
- replace the CV joint
- replace the circlip
- add new CV joint grease if required (it'll be in a small packet the size of a ketchup pack in a take-away)
- secure the boot (you may need to use cable-ties for this as the clips that come with the new ones are usually rubbish)
- put everything back together.
It really is as simple as that but access is limited on the Cerb and it will take a while but it is definitely possible to do it as a DIY job.
Oh, and you'll get filthy doing it.
As per the post above you somply undo all the bolts that hold the drive in place.
You'll need an 8mm allen key (one of the socket-type ones that fits on the end of a ratchet gives better leverage).
You need to open them both at the diff and at the hub ends.
A tap (whack) of a rubber mallet may be needed to get the drive to move.
I did mine while the diff was out but you'll be able to get the drives out with a bit of manouvering even with the diff in place as the joints move along the length pf the drive quiet a bit.
You may have to remove a section of the exhaust for access.
Once they are out it's very easy to change the boots .....
- cut off the old boot
- remove the circlip
- slide off the CV joint (if it's full of crap you'll need to washi it with paraffin / diesel / etc)
- slide on the new boot
- replace the CV joint
- replace the circlip
- add new CV joint grease if required (it'll be in a small packet the size of a ketchup pack in a take-away)
- secure the boot (you may need to use cable-ties for this as the clips that come with the new ones are usually rubbish)
- put everything back together.
It really is as simple as that but access is limited on the Cerb and it will take a while but it is definitely possible to do it as a DIY job.
Oh, and you'll get filthy doing it.
The Nige said:
Hi guys
Thanks very much for the input, have ordered a set of four of the upgraded driveshaft gaiters from Clever Trevor. So the task for the rest of the day is get under the car get the drive shafts off ready and get filthy.
Might as well get the uprated drive shafts while your at it Thanks very much for the input, have ordered a set of four of the upgraded driveshaft gaiters from Clever Trevor. So the task for the rest of the day is get under the car get the drive shafts off ready and get filthy.
ukkid35 said:
Just to confirm, you can completely remove the shaft without undoing the 41mm hub nut? Thanks
Yes - the big nut stays done up, the drive shaft is bolted to the back of the hub spline via the CV joint. You only need to undo the allen bolts on the drive shaft side of the hub.ETA - If you check the last page of the equivalent parts thread I put a link to a source of uprated CV joints & boots at a fraction of the TVR specialist prices
Edited by Tanguero on Tuesday 26th June 09:28
I am an expert in this field having broken 5 of the sodding things and rebuilt the diff 3 times, CV's are tough not bust one yet, Driveshafts are made from carrots, including the Racefailed ones.
Use a really long extension bar to undo/do the inside row up, drop the rear caliper off (two bolts) and the disc drops out the way, saves trying to fight with the rear suspension/fuel pump to get the ratchet in.
You will also see if your LSD has any tension left in it!
Use a really long extension bar to undo/do the inside row up, drop the rear caliper off (two bolts) and the disc drops out the way, saves trying to fight with the rear suspension/fuel pump to get the ratchet in.
You will also see if your LSD has any tension left in it!
Tanguero said:
I just undo the two bolts at the bottom of the rear upright to the lower suspension arm leaving the top bolt in place then swing the upright out and up out of the way. Make sure you catch and note the position of any spacers/washers that come out.
Thanks - now I understand why the handbrake cable is badly kinked.But now it's out I'm a bit puzzled because the CV joints are open, they don't have end plates on. As it happens I have one spare from my other car, but is it worth putting just one on? Or should they not be there anyway?
ukkid35 said:
Tanguero said:
I just undo the two bolts at the bottom of the rear upright to the lower suspension arm leaving the top bolt in place then swing the upright out and up out of the way. Make sure you catch and note the position of any spacers/washers that come out.
Thanks - now I understand why the handbrake cable is badly kinked.Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff