Big fuse location (4.5)
Discussion
Yes yes yes... common question I know... but!
There's a pic floating around of the location for a speed6, but it doesn't look like my 4.5 (in my amateur eyes at least!). Everything else is a textual description of its location and I'm struggling.
Can anyone help a numpty with finding his fuse, and put up a pic for a stock 4.5?
Thanks in advance for any help on this. Thinking it might be useful in the long term too, as I've not been able to find a pic...
There's a pic floating around of the location for a speed6, but it doesn't look like my 4.5 (in my amateur eyes at least!). Everything else is a textual description of its location and I'm struggling.
Can anyone help a numpty with finding his fuse, and put up a pic for a stock 4.5?
Thanks in advance for any help on this. Thinking it might be useful in the long term too, as I've not been able to find a pic...
It's at the back of the block, you need the battery cover off to get at it. I'd get a test meter on the car first to see if the car battery is charging, I've recently acquired a clamp meter so I can measure the charging current too. You're localish right Phil? I could pop over help if you get stuck, we're off to the TVRCC AGM today but might be able to do something tomorrow evening.
Steve.
Steve.
Edited by Steve_T on Saturday 28th March 10:04
Thanks Steve - YHM
Steve_T said:
It's at the back of the block, you need the battery cover off to get at it. I'd get a test meter on the car first to see if the car battery is charging, I've recently acquired a clamp meter so I can measure the charging current to. You're localish right Phil? I could pop over help if you get stuck, but we're off to the TVRCC AGM today, might be able to do something tomorrow evening.
Steve.
Steve.
Phil
It is pretty simple.
Remove battery panel.
Behind engine and behind the furthest back purple hose you should be able to see a black box the size of a fag packet. This is the cover for the big fuse. It sits on the engine.
You need a longish reach extension bar for a ratchet. You are best to disconnect battery or cover extension bar in lx tape. Otherwise lots of arcing.
Undo the two nuts , pull off two cables, replace fuse, ensure well seated (fuse not you), reattach cables, replace nuts (cars not yours).....
It is pretty simple.
Remove battery panel.
Behind engine and behind the furthest back purple hose you should be able to see a black box the size of a fag packet. This is the cover for the big fuse. It sits on the engine.
You need a longish reach extension bar for a ratchet. You are best to disconnect battery or cover extension bar in lx tape. Otherwise lots of arcing.
Undo the two nuts , pull off two cables, replace fuse, ensure well seated (fuse not you), reattach cables, replace nuts (cars not yours).....
Take off the one piece rear cover that covers the throttle linkage, battery etc, the one that's held on with two allen bolts.
Look down the back of the engine in the middle for the most awkward place to put something and you'll see a very thick wire broken with a black plastic box, about finger thick and 1.5-2" long. The lid pops open to expose the fuse.
You can change it with the battery still connected if you are careful, but I'd disconnect the battery. 8mm nuts from memory, don't remove all the way else you'll lose them, just slacken and the fuse is slotted to slide out (probably in two bits). Slide the new one in and tighten.
I wrap tape around the metal shaft of the tool, just in case it shorts.
The fuses are so cheap, I've started replacing them once a year when the car has it's full service.
Look down the back of the engine in the middle for the most awkward place to put something and you'll see a very thick wire broken with a black plastic box, about finger thick and 1.5-2" long. The lid pops open to expose the fuse.
You can change it with the battery still connected if you are careful, but I'd disconnect the battery. 8mm nuts from memory, don't remove all the way else you'll lose them, just slacken and the fuse is slotted to slide out (probably in two bits). Slide the new one in and tighten.
I wrap tape around the metal shaft of the tool, just in case it shorts.
The fuses are so cheap, I've started replacing them once a year when the car has it's full service.
is that it looks to me like the fuse is fractured at one end
so can't get the fuse out
Bad, looks like someones used a cheap washer in the past and that's what has corroded. Rather than mess about change the whole holder fuse for a better type. Steve heath does a good one for less than a fiver see here https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shenglt/catalog/i...
Sourced a 125A fuse (and new holder incl. nuts/assembly). I'm hear some of the TVR Servicers fit 125A as standard now, so will go with that in the morning. Included a pic of that too, because they look substantially better engineered, with tougher metal (connectors at each end) and the 125A failure point presumably in the covered housing, improving the lifespan I'd have thought.
Only disadvantage I can see is that they are closed holes, which means removing the nuts - even more fiddly. But if I can manage to get them off without dropping them then I'm sure most people can. Getting them on again is easy enough with a bit of blutak in the end of the socket or something
Here endth the numpty's guide
Only disadvantage I can see is that they are closed holes, which means removing the nuts - even more fiddly. But if I can manage to get them off without dropping them then I'm sure most people can. Getting them on again is easy enough with a bit of blutak in the end of the socket or something
Here endth the numpty's guide
Edited by Phil_Edge on Saturday 28th March 18:36
A 125A fuse is fine for the job. Its debatable whether you need a fuse there at all, it only protects the alternator from a short at the battery, which is unlikely.
But let's face it, if you've got a fault that's causing a current draw of 100 amps it will probably be far more, so 125A will still protect it.
Andy.
But let's face it, if you've got a fault that's causing a current draw of 100 amps it will probably be far more, so 125A will still protect it.
Andy.
"Only disadvantage I can see is that they are closed holes, which means removing the nuts - even more fiddly. But if I can manage to get them off without dropping them then I'm sure most people can. Getting them on again is easy enough with a bit of blutak in the end of the socket or something "
There is nothing to stop you cutting the hole to form a slot then you won`t have to take your nuts off! Regards Tim
There is nothing to stop you cutting the hole to form a slot then you won`t have to take your nuts off! Regards Tim
ukcerb said:
"Only disadvantage I can see is that they are closed holes, which means removing the nuts - even more fiddly. But if I can manage to get them off without dropping them then I'm sure most people can. Getting them on again is easy enough with a bit of blutak in the end of the socket or something "
There is nothing to stop you cutting the hole to form a slot then you won`t have to take your nuts off! Regards Tim
Absolutely... my thoughts for this particular incident though are that the old washer is quite rusty, so I got the new holder too, primarily for the shiny new nuts...There is nothing to stop you cutting the hole to form a slot then you won`t have to take your nuts off! Regards Tim
I guess either works well enough, depending on how tiny your hands are to get in there and do the screwin'
Off to reassemble... Corker of a GP by the way!
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