Peugeot 205 1.9 with Kant cam and 38dgas carb
Discussion
Yes, the torque curve is more important than outright top-end power.
I have to fit an alloy sump now, because these have the mounting bosses to fit the alternator lower because of the carburettors.
I'm also fitting stronger rodbolts now the sump is off the engine.
Next step will be a bigger radiator to keep the temperature of the engine low enough with the extra power :-)
I have to fit an alloy sump now, because these have the mounting bosses to fit the alternator lower because of the carburettors.
I'm also fitting stronger rodbolts now the sump is off the engine.
Next step will be a bigger radiator to keep the temperature of the engine low enough with the extra power :-)
More power! I'm going to fit an 1900 crank and 1600 pistons, because the 1900 pistons have a hollow top and the 1600's have flat tops, should increase the comprssion from 10:1 to about 11.5:1
I'll post the results after again a trip to the rollers, should give a healthy increase in power and torque.
I'll post the results after again a trip to the rollers, should give a healthy increase in power and torque.
The pistons and twin 45's are fitted now, it runs nice too, next friday it's a new trip to the rolling road again to see how much power it makes and to set up the webers as good as possible, hope to see about 140 whp or more :-)
Also does anybody know if a crankshaft from a 2200 16V (EW) engine fits into my old XU type engine, it has a stroke of 96 millimeters instead of the 88 millimeters it has now, and which conrods should fit, or are custom rods needed.
Or take an XU10 8 valver from a 406 / Xantia with 86 mm bore and the 96 mm crank for the full 2230 cc's. should make a lot of torque then!
Also does anybody know if a crankshaft from a 2200 16V (EW) engine fits into my old XU type engine, it has a stroke of 96 millimeters instead of the 88 millimeters it has now, and which conrods should fit, or are custom rods needed.
Or take an XU10 8 valver from a 406 / Xantia with 86 mm bore and the 96 mm crank for the full 2230 cc's. should make a lot of torque then!
Been tot the rollers today, and the results are great in my opinion.
With the flattop pistons and the twin 45's the torque went up to 187 nm @ 5100 rpm and the power to 148 bhp @ 6500 rpm, and can still be revved out to 7000 before the power drops off.
At this point 45 mm high full radius trumpets are fitted, might try some 60 and 75 high trumpets to see what happens then :-)
With the flattop pistons and the twin 45's the torque went up to 187 nm @ 5100 rpm and the power to 148 bhp @ 6500 rpm, and can still be revved out to 7000 before the power drops off.
At this point 45 mm high full radius trumpets are fitted, might try some 60 and 75 high trumpets to see what happens then :-)
Hello David, the cilinderhead is not standard anymore, some work is done on the ports and valves, the bottom of the inlet ports has been raised with some special filler.
The power is measured at the wheels, and the valve sizes are standard 1.9
The C/R can be raised a bit more by skimming the head i guess..
The power is measured at the wheels, and the valve sizes are standard 1.9
The C/R can be raised a bit more by skimming the head i guess..
Now we have come to this, after fitting a 1900 crankshaft and rods with 1600 pistons for more compression, and twin 45 webers with 36 mm chokes.
Ignition timing didn't need adjusting, but the main jets were too big at the first run, so it ran way too rich.
Smaller main jets gave an impressive result, 18 horsepower, so time and money well spent i guess.
As you can see there's a dip at 3200 rpm, probably from the wild camshaft, and another little dip at about 4200, that's the one i want to get rid of, next week i'll be fitting 90 mm long trumpets instead of the 45 mm long ones that are fitted now, to get some more torque lower in the rev range.
The long trumpets work! It seems to have more torque.
Also the headgasket blew twice in two weeks :-( the problem was that a 1900 having wet liners and one of them "sank" into the block..
But it is fixed for good now, i put in a 2.0 - 8V from a Citroën Xantia and swapped over the cam and carbs.
Results again! The extra 93 cc's give more torque again!
Time to put the BX on the rollers once more to see what the power and torque is now.
Also the headgasket blew twice in two weeks :-( the problem was that a 1900 having wet liners and one of them "sank" into the block..
But it is fixed for good now, i put in a 2.0 - 8V from a Citroën Xantia and swapped over the cam and carbs.
Results again! The extra 93 cc's give more torque again!
Time to put the BX on the rollers once more to see what the power and torque is now.
Thanks for the reply Simon, the mechanical fuel pump is about to be replaced by a facet electric pump mounted close to the fuel tank, though i'm keeping the external filter, just to be sure there is no dirt going into the carbs, or are you worried about the fact that it is a plastic filter?
It is a quite unusual car for this kind of racing, but it is light with a lot of glassfibre parts already fitted from the factory, long wheelbase, wide track and the hydropneumatic suspension works great, very stable, reliable and cheap!
I'm curious to see what happens on the dyno, the 1900 made 148 bhp and 187 nm @ the wheels, so i hope for close to 160bhp and 200nm now....
It is a quite unusual car for this kind of racing, but it is light with a lot of glassfibre parts already fitted from the factory, long wheelbase, wide track and the hydropneumatic suspension works great, very stable, reliable and cheap!
I'm curious to see what happens on the dyno, the 1900 made 148 bhp and 187 nm @ the wheels, so i hope for close to 160bhp and 200nm now....
Edited by Keesjr on Monday 15th October 20:33
Edited by Keesjr on Monday 15th October 20:35
Yes, i have run the 2138 engine for three rades now, and on the 3rd heat of the last race the big-end bearings gave up.
The engine is now being repaired, crank grinding, bores honed and new pistonrings going in.
Also i'm putting a 2230 engine together (86 x 96) for next year!
My engine shop already suggested to bore it to 88 mm for about 2330 cc's :-)
When my engine is ready, there's also a quaife gearkit and lsd ready to go into the 'box, for nice short steps between the gears, dropping just 1500 rpm between shifts instead of 2500 with the mi-16 gears.
The engine is now being repaired, crank grinding, bores honed and new pistonrings going in.
Also i'm putting a 2230 engine together (86 x 96) for next year!
My engine shop already suggested to bore it to 88 mm for about 2330 cc's :-)
When my engine is ready, there's also a quaife gearkit and lsd ready to go into the 'box, for nice short steps between the gears, dropping just 1500 rpm between shifts instead of 2500 with the mi-16 gears.
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