Oil advice and recommendations here!

[opieoilman]

Is the gearbox stock or not?

If it's stock, what does the handbook say? 75w-90?

Cheers
Simon

[opieoilman]

With the weather being so cold I wouldn't use a 20w.

It would be better to run in on a 10w-40 or 15w-50 tops, either semi or mineral.

Cheers
Simon

[opieoilman]

Personally I would use a 5w-40 synthetic based on the temps you mention, I would doubt that your oil temps get above 100degC.

Cheers
Simon

[opieoilman]

According to my database, synthetics (or non-conventional) basestocks should be used for "shear stability". It also recommends 5w or 10w either 40 or 50.

Gives you some scope really, I would have said 5w-40 if the car is a daily driver / road car. I think I've seen the car around TRURO in the mornings (can't be that many in Cornwall) Silver isn't it?

Cheers
Simon

[opieoilman]

I'll look out for you as I do the school run most days, I'll give you a shout if I see you. Could be either in a red RX8 or Blue Jeep Grand Cherokee, looking bored!

Cheers
Simon

[opieoilman]

markh said:

A bit off subject but any idea what the oil temp should be on my 99 450 Chimaera, it dose have an oil cooler (with an inline stat) Also have seen it on a Tuscan racer any merits on a diff oil cooler. Thanks

I'm not sure how hot they run but between 70 and 90degC if cooled is about right.

Diff oil should not need cooling unless you are doing something a bit special with the car off-road.

Cheers
Simon

[opieoilman]

Dan,

You are looking at a 0w-40/5w-40 for your car with the kind of use it is seeing.

Mobil 1 is good stuff a straight pao but the ester based oils do have the edge so if you want one of these look at Silkolene, Motul, Redline.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

There should be no issues.

5w-40 is what is recomended for a stock car.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

Bee_Jay said:

OK, here's a new one I hope (just spent ages searching....) 2002 Audi S6, 40,000 miles. Thanks. Joe.

Joe,

Is it on a fixed or variable service interval?

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

Fire99 said:

Hi There, I would be grateful if you would share your words of wisdom on my car. My car is a '98 TVR Chimaera 450 (RV8 4.5) Its done 45k miles and to my knowledge has been run on 0w 40 Mobil 1 since the running in period. Her oil has been changed every 3k and barely uses any oil between changes. Though i wouldn't say that she is especially quiet under the bonnet. Is it worth me changing to the Motorsport spec Mobil 1 which i believe is 15w 50 or stick with the super thin 0w 40? Many thanks, Nick

Nick,

I would stay as is, unless the car sees a lot of track time or heavily modded then no need to step out of grade.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

Have you looked in the Members Section here?

www.opieoils.co.uk

Pistonhead Members will recieve and access code to the Club Dicounts.

Cheers
Guy

[opieoilman]

Bee Jay,

According to my book you need an oil that meets the VW503.00 spec, this will be 0w-30/0w-40 and is a long life oil.

We have plenty to choose from, have a look on my site for options www.opieoils.co.uk

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

Beejay,

The VAG group started this coding system to make things easier, in turn they have since got their nickers in a twist and the codes have become quite complicated, they are now making one oil that will cover all VAG codes to take out the confusion, it is however expensive stuff though.

This is what my record says;

VW503.00 - This is a new oil specification for petrol engines with variable service intervals, this includes the Audi S4 but not the RS4, TT or S3 with outputs of more than 180bhp.

VW503.01 - This is a new oils specification specially for the RS4, TT and S3, passat W8 and pheaton W12 with out puts of more than 180bhp.

Our oil that meet the VW503.00 spec are Fuchs Titan Supersyn SL LL Plus 0w-30

Ones that meet WV503.01 are Fuchs Titna Supersyn SL 0w-30, Mobil 1 0w-40, Castrol SLX Longtec and Motul 8100 0w-40.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

Bee_Jay said:

Excellent - thanks!

No probs, pleasure.

Cheers
Guy

[opieoilman]

gdaybruce said:

Hi Guy, Our family transport consists of a 1999 Subaru Impreza Turbo (about 70K miles) and a 1999 Land Rover Discovery TD5 (112K miles). Both are unmodified and both do a mix of short and longer runs. The Impreza occasionally visits a track while the Disco sometimes tows a horsebox. Both engines are running well and use negligible oil. I have a couple of questions: 1) I work on the basis that the brand name on an oil can is less significant than the API specification. I look for the cheapest synthetic I can find that meets the latest API spec, currently SL I believe. Often I buy (very cheap) supermarket oil when on holiday in Spain. Am I misguided on this?

The lates API spec is now SM, These specs tell you that the oil is ok to use for sercvice, however it does not give you any indication of what the oil is made from, or quality. Similar to tyres, budget tyres still pass all the requirments to be used on the road, but quality tyres that still pass the same specs are in a different league.

With oil it is very much you get what you pay for, if it says synthetic and comes in at less then £5/6 per litre it is more likely to be ahydrocracked mineral oil and not a true synthetic.

A small rule of thumb is all 0w oils are true syntehtics, its the only way they can reach that grade.

gdaybruce said:

2) I also work on the basis that frequent oil changes matter, perhaps just as much as the oil itself. I stick rigidly to the Impreza's 6 month or 7500 mile intervals but for the Disco I halve the recommended 12000 mile interval. The TD5 has a centrifugal filter as well as a cartridge type and I halve the service intervals for these too. Am I wasting my money or is this a GOOD THING? (Incidentally, how effective is the centrifugal filter?)

If using mineral based oild then yes, regular changes are a must. Every 5,000 miles or so with a semi synthetic.

With a true synthetic you can go to around 10-12,000 miles and will still do a better job (in the long term) then a mineral based oil.

gdaybruce said:

3) (I know I said a couple of questions but I lied!) Is there actually any difference between oils marked as being for diesels and those for petrol engines. Some oils say they're fine for either.

Most are market research if you like, The way to tell if it is suitable for both is by the ACEA spec, A is for petrol and B is for diesel, most oils will carry both.

The only real call for Diesel specific oils now are for heavey commercials, trucks/generators etc.

gdaybruce said:

4) Finally, my local motor factor often sells fully synthetic oil branded under the Vauxhall logo at a good price. Do you happen to know whose oil this is?

It does change, though I believe it may be made by Fuchs currently.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

>> Edited by opieoilman on Thursday 19th January 17:30

[opieoilman]

No problems, database includes bikes.

Honda state 10w-40 and as the Silkolene ones are the only ones that I do (they are one of the best though) I would recommend Silkolene PRO 4 10w-40.

You'll find details of this oil here: www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers
Simon

[opieoilman]

Hi,

According to my book you will need a 5w-30 oil meeting the ACEA A3 spec.

Being out in higher ambient temps I would still stick with a 5w/10w-30. Most of these are semi synthetic and should be changed every 5,000 miles or so. If you can find a full synthetic 5w-30 you are looking at 10,000 miles.

There will be no issues switching from semi to full synthetic.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

No proceedure needed.

Just drain and refil.

Cheers

Simon.

[opieoilman]

Not really in our opinion, most "high" perfoamce filters we have come accross, you are paying for branding.

As along as you are using an OEM quality filter then that is ideal.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

I would have thought that you should be able to source a 5w-40 or 5w-30 synthetic.

Regards
Simon