ZRP Forged Conrods
Discussion
Ok, thanks, that's what the local builder said, I always thought they were an additional spin prevention, pictured higher in the thread are the other budget rods that show the opposite positions I was talking about which seems logical, and I expected the same here if the rods have them at all.
I have ZRP rods in my K20 2.2l stroker build. They have single tangs. I paid attention to this due to my former Rover K experience.
Unfortunately I did not take a picture of them with the tangs visible.
In the Rover K world, rods for high reving derivatives such as the VHPD engines, were fitted with "single tag" rods to make them less prone to spin bearings. the common OEM rods had double tangs just like in the post above.
I have not heard of a spun bearing in a Rover K in a Elise since 2004. It is likely more of a precaution. They rarely suffer oil starvation in a Elise install, hence low occurrence of spun bearing issues. Overloaded shells typically show a kind of delimitation pattern demo pictures I have seen. Better trilayer indium coated bearings such as the Mahle Motorsport or Vandervell VP2 don't have these issues.
It is always important to fit the shells dry with no lubricant on the back or in the rod journal. Also never polish the inside. The surface roughness and dry install increase the friction of the shell towards the rods clamping it in place. The rod journal texture pretty much imprints in the back of the shell.
if you run out of lube even for an instant under load and high revs, the bearing is doomed. Once it sizes to the crank journal, it will burn up or first burn up and then spin, tangs or not.
Unfortunately I did not take a picture of them with the tangs visible.
In the Rover K world, rods for high reving derivatives such as the VHPD engines, were fitted with "single tag" rods to make them less prone to spin bearings. the common OEM rods had double tangs just like in the post above.
I have not heard of a spun bearing in a Rover K in a Elise since 2004. It is likely more of a precaution. They rarely suffer oil starvation in a Elise install, hence low occurrence of spun bearing issues. Overloaded shells typically show a kind of delimitation pattern demo pictures I have seen. Better trilayer indium coated bearings such as the Mahle Motorsport or Vandervell VP2 don't have these issues.
It is always important to fit the shells dry with no lubricant on the back or in the rod journal. Also never polish the inside. The surface roughness and dry install increase the friction of the shell towards the rods clamping it in place. The rod journal texture pretty much imprints in the back of the shell.
if you run out of lube even for an instant under load and high revs, the bearing is doomed. Once it sizes to the crank journal, it will burn up or first burn up and then spin, tangs or not.
yeah I see that, and the dry fit etc, but it does make sense if the tangs were to help prevent rotation if only to preserve the rod itself in the event.
anyway, they'll go in, I have King race shells, couldn't get Mahle motorsport, or a date at least yet, but will order them
I've read that the rods go with tang slots to exhaust side, but unsure about that right now, there's no marking other than the etched side of the rod, or the tang slots opposite. No drilling other than the top which is central.
anyway, they'll go in, I have King race shells, couldn't get Mahle motorsport, or a date at least yet, but will order them
I've read that the rods go with tang slots to exhaust side, but unsure about that right now, there's no marking other than the etched side of the rod, or the tang slots opposite. No drilling other than the top which is central.
CarsOrBikes said:
yeah I see that, and the dry fit etc, but it does make sense if the tangs were to help prevent rotation if only to preserve the rod itself in the event.
anyway, they'll go in, I have King race shells, couldn't get Mahle motorsport, or a date at least yet, but will order them
I've read that the rods go with tang slots to exhaust side, but unsure about that right now, there's no marking other than the etched side of the rod, or the tang slots opposite. No drilling other than the top which is central.
As already mentioned, tangs rarely save the rods...if they're gona spin, the tangs sure wont stop it.anyway, they'll go in, I have King race shells, couldn't get Mahle motorsport, or a date at least yet, but will order them
I've read that the rods go with tang slots to exhaust side, but unsure about that right now, there's no marking other than the etched side of the rod, or the tang slots opposite. No drilling other than the top which is central.
Anybody got an opinion on which side the tag should be with the rod installed in general? Assuming there are no drillings or offsets etc?
Had an engine with wear(copper showing) around the tab area of the bearing and perfect wear overall, was down to having too much bearing crush when measuring, rods were returned to manufacturer for checking anyway and they suggested double tagging the rods to prevent this wear pattern. The rod sizing was spot on so went from King to ACL shell and solved the excessive crush problem.
Had an engine with wear(copper showing) around the tab area of the bearing and perfect wear overall, was down to having too much bearing crush when measuring, rods were returned to manufacturer for checking anyway and they suggested double tagging the rods to prevent this wear pattern. The rod sizing was spot on so went from King to ACL shell and solved the excessive crush problem.
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