Home garage vehicle lifts
Discussion
Not sure if I'm posting in the right section.
I'm looking for advice on purchasing a vehicle lift for my garage.
Looking on eBay and they seem to be covered by a range of scissor lifts from £900 up to £5000
I don't have 3phase in my garage so would need to be 240v 3pin plug.
My garage has a sloped roof so one side is high so lift height could be over 1m easily.
Any one who has what make models have you got and how would you rate them ?
I'm looking for advice on purchasing a vehicle lift for my garage.
Looking on eBay and they seem to be covered by a range of scissor lifts from £900 up to £5000
I don't have 3phase in my garage so would need to be 240v 3pin plug.
My garage has a sloped roof so one side is high so lift height could be over 1m easily.
Any one who has what make models have you got and how would you rate them ?
EzyQ said:
Not sure if I'm posting in the right section.
I'm looking for advice on purchasing a vehicle lift for my garage.
Looking on eBay and they seem to be covered by a range of scissor lifts from £900 up to £5000
I don't have 3phase in my garage so would need to be 240v 3pin plug.
My garage has a sloped roof so one side is high so lift height could be over 1m easily.
Any one who has what make models have you got and how would you rate them ?
I got an Automotech 2-post. Single-phase 230v, but it needs to be on a 16A commando plug rather than a normal 13A. Not a great issue - simply add an extra socket to the existing ring, or an extra supply from the garage CU.I'm looking for advice on purchasing a vehicle lift for my garage.
Looking on eBay and they seem to be covered by a range of scissor lifts from £900 up to £5000
I don't have 3phase in my garage so would need to be 240v 3pin plug.
My garage has a sloped roof so one side is high so lift height could be over 1m easily.
Any one who has what make models have you got and how would you rate them ?
For a 2-post, you need to be sure of the concrete. If you're looking at a scissor, then that's much easier - but the lift itself will be much more in the way for underside work.
I suspect this'll get moved to the Home Mechanics section soon - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&... - there's several lift/ramp threads in there already.
I've got one of these: Automech Link.
It's a short 3.6 tonne four poster that runs from regular 240v plug. I prefer to use four posters as I'm not keen on suspension drop for long term storage. There's the added advantage that the garage floor doesn't need the strength that installing a two poster requires.
It's a short 3.6 tonne four poster that runs from regular 240v plug. I prefer to use four posters as I'm not keen on suspension drop for long term storage. There's the added advantage that the garage floor doesn't need the strength that installing a two poster requires.
I have bought a couple of second hand 4 post lifts from ebay.
They are used mainly for storage not working underneath them - 4x4 fence posts under each corner when up, I haven't had any issues with them.
They come with 3 phase motors, but a single phase is about £200 plus £40 for a starter.
I appreciate the installation and maintenance issues, but in fairness you have similar issues with any lift you buy if you are not experience / qualified.
The putting it back together is a challenge the first time !!
They are used mainly for storage not working underneath them - 4x4 fence posts under each corner when up, I haven't had any issues with them.
They come with 3 phase motors, but a single phase is about £200 plus £40 for a starter.
I appreciate the installation and maintenance issues, but in fairness you have similar issues with any lift you buy if you are not experience / qualified.
The putting it back together is a challenge the first time !!
I bought one of these a year or so back.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mid-Rise-Scissor-Lift-2-...
Great bit of kit, main issue being to make sure not lift the car(s) too high in my 'normal' garage so that they hit the ceiling. Not too bad with the convertibles I've got, need to be a bit more aware with cars with roofs.
As for usage; never had any issues, rock solid, has locking mechanism, lifts the car straight up so good in tight space. Also doubles up as a motorbike lift and general adjustable height workbench.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mid-Rise-Scissor-Lift-2-...
Great bit of kit, main issue being to make sure not lift the car(s) too high in my 'normal' garage so that they hit the ceiling. Not too bad with the convertibles I've got, need to be a bit more aware with cars with roofs.
As for usage; never had any issues, rock solid, has locking mechanism, lifts the car straight up so good in tight space. Also doubles up as a motorbike lift and general adjustable height workbench.
I have an Automech scissor lift in my little garage.
All I use it for is brakes/suspension etc, so access isn't a major problem, though it has enabled me to do a couple of exhaust system mods as it has no cross bars to interfere with the centre of the car. If I were doing bodywork, sills or similar, then it would probably make it more difficult than a two poster, though nothing a couple of blocks couldn't solve. It lifts most things up with ease, though it seems to struggle with my Range Rover to the point that I wouldn't like to wander underneath it when it's in the air.
My car lives in the garage and parks over the top of it so no problem with it taking up space and, unlike with a two poster, I can open the doors without having to consider the position of the car. I would have liked a two poster but the floor isn't really strong enough and I'm limited on width, so a scissor seemed a reasonable compromise. As mentioned above, a 16 amp supply is needed but this wasn't really a problem as I have a mate who's a spark.
All I use it for is brakes/suspension etc, so access isn't a major problem, though it has enabled me to do a couple of exhaust system mods as it has no cross bars to interfere with the centre of the car. If I were doing bodywork, sills or similar, then it would probably make it more difficult than a two poster, though nothing a couple of blocks couldn't solve. It lifts most things up with ease, though it seems to struggle with my Range Rover to the point that I wouldn't like to wander underneath it when it's in the air.
My car lives in the garage and parks over the top of it so no problem with it taking up space and, unlike with a two poster, I can open the doors without having to consider the position of the car. I would have liked a two poster but the floor isn't really strong enough and I'm limited on width, so a scissor seemed a reasonable compromise. As mentioned above, a 16 amp supply is needed but this wasn't really a problem as I have a mate who's a spark.
Another positive for automotech here.
I'm currently mid a TVR restoration and the 7530 scissor lift has been invaluable. It leaves the centre , wheels and front /rear easily accessible. Cheaper ones that have cross bars restrict access.
My main comments would be
- if you have the height a 2 poster is better for access but you need lots of height, and width in the garage so as not to be annoying when working around the car.
- floor, are you sure the floor is solid concrete , ideally 200mm min reinforced floor, if it's a block and beam floor then the cost of alterations would outweigh the lift cost. A scissor lift may be ok on a block and bean floor if you aren't lifting max weight. Modern builds are often block and beam.
When thinking about the weight of the total add the car to the lift weight, so a 2 tonne car plus the lift at circa 600-800kg extra. And either pay or have friends to help you install it.
I'm currently mid a TVR restoration and the 7530 scissor lift has been invaluable. It leaves the centre , wheels and front /rear easily accessible. Cheaper ones that have cross bars restrict access.
My main comments would be
- if you have the height a 2 poster is better for access but you need lots of height, and width in the garage so as not to be annoying when working around the car.
- floor, are you sure the floor is solid concrete , ideally 200mm min reinforced floor, if it's a block and beam floor then the cost of alterations would outweigh the lift cost. A scissor lift may be ok on a block and bean floor if you aren't lifting max weight. Modern builds are often block and beam.
When thinking about the weight of the total add the car to the lift weight, so a 2 tonne car plus the lift at circa 600-800kg extra. And either pay or have friends to help you install it.
SMB said:
And either pay or have friends to help you install it.
I self-installed my two-poster. The only bit that needed friendly muscle was getting it off the van I hired to collect it. The van had a tail-lift, but it was actually counter-productive for this - they loaded with a forklift, and you dismantle the package in the van and unload the bits manually. Only the two columns are REALLY heavy, and they're manouverable on your own once they're on the concrete. Even moving them from horizontal to vertical isn't that hard, because you're not taking the full weight.another vote for Automotech Services... I have had this one quite a few years now. I use it for cars and bikes, as you can see its quite versatile.
I didn't have the height for a full lift one... the floor in my domestic garage was no where near good enough for a 2 poster so I went for this below. another advantage is I can still park two cars side by side in the garage.
on the safety front, HSE issued a warning on two post lifts and the need for strong floors.
http://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/topics/fallofflifts.htm
I didn't have the height for a full lift one... the floor in my domestic garage was no where near good enough for a 2 poster so I went for this below. another advantage is I can still park two cars side by side in the garage.
on the safety front, HSE issued a warning on two post lifts and the need for strong floors.
http://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/topics/fallofflifts.htm
Edited by buzzer on Wednesday 26th April 17:08
Thanks!
you can read a bit about its build here...
https://jtccc.wordpress.com/our-motorbikes/suzuki-...
you can read a bit about its build here...
https://jtccc.wordpress.com/our-motorbikes/suzuki-...
Bit late to the party here. I've just bought a 3 month old Automotech 7530 scissor lift, and am wondering if anyone else has thought about taking the motor and control panel out of the mobile kit and wall mounting them? For reasons of space, it would be more convenient. Also, I really need to be using a quiet compressor to release the air locks, anyone know how much pressure they need to release? I can get a Clarke wiz for about £80, rated at 2.8 bar, but not sure if would have the lungs for the job.
Heaveho said:
Bit late to the party here. I've just bought a 3 month old Automotech 7530 scissor lift, and am wondering if anyone else has thought about taking the motor and control panel out of the mobile kit and wall mounting them? For reasons of space, it would be more convenient. Also, I really need to be using a quiet compressor to release the air locks, anyone know how much pressure they need to release? I can get a Clarke wiz for about £80, rated at 2.8 bar, but not sure if would have the lungs for the job.
I have taken the motor and pump unit out of mine and mounted it on the wall in my workshop. Look at the picture above and you can see I have mounted the control panel on the wall in the garage (behind the bike). the pump and motor is on the wall the other side.with regard to air... the requirement for mine really is minimal in terms of both volume and pressure. In fact, If I have turned to tank off and the pressure has dropped to around 1 bar, there is usually enough in the pipe that runs around the garage to push the air locks off.
I was going to say get a bigger compressor, but see you have mentioned it needs to be quiet... I think the air requirement is so low, you may get away with a small cheap 12v tyre inflation type... might be worth a tr if you already have one...
Edited by buzzer on Monday 29th May 18:50
buzzer said:
I have taken the motor and pump unit out of mine and mounted it on the wall in my workshop. Look at the picture above and you can see I have mounted the control panel on the wall in the garage (behind the bike). the pump and motor is on the wall the other side.
with regard to air... the requirement for mine really is minimal in terms of both volume and pressure. In fact, If I have turned to tank off and the pressure has dropped to around 1 bar, there is usually enough in the pipe that runs around the garage to push the air locks off.
I was going to say get a bigger compressor, but see you have mentioned it needs to be quiet... I think the air requirement is so low, you may get away with a small cheap 12v tyre inflation type... might be worth a tr if you already have one...
Thanks for all that, very helpful, cheers.with regard to air... the requirement for mine really is minimal in terms of both volume and pressure. In fact, If I have turned to tank off and the pressure has dropped to around 1 bar, there is usually enough in the pipe that runs around the garage to push the air locks off.
I was going to say get a bigger compressor, but see you have mentioned it needs to be quiet... I think the air requirement is so low, you may get away with a small cheap 12v tyre inflation type... might be worth a tr if you already have one...
Edited by buzzer on Monday 29th May 18:50
buzzer said:
I have taken the motor and pump unit out of mine and mounted it on the wall in my workshop. Look at the picture above and you can see I have mounted the control panel on the wall in the garage (behind the bike). the pump and motor is on the wall the other side.
with regard to air... the requirement for mine really is minimal in terms of both volume and pressure. In fact, If I have turned to tank off and the pressure has dropped to around 1 bar, there is usually enough in the pipe that runs around the garage to push the air locks off.
I was going to say get a bigger compressor, but see you have mentioned it needs to be quiet... I think the air requirement is so low, you may get away with a small cheap 12v tyre inflation type... might be worth a tr if you already have one...
Out of interest, how did you go about extending the cables between the motor and the control unit?with regard to air... the requirement for mine really is minimal in terms of both volume and pressure. In fact, If I have turned to tank off and the pressure has dropped to around 1 bar, there is usually enough in the pipe that runs around the garage to push the air locks off.
I was going to say get a bigger compressor, but see you have mentioned it needs to be quiet... I think the air requirement is so low, you may get away with a small cheap 12v tyre inflation type... might be worth a tr if you already have one...
Edited by buzzer on Monday 29th May 18:50
Heaveho said:
Out of interest, how did you go about extending the cables between the motor and the control unit?
There aren't any.It's purely a single hydraulic pipe between the motor/pump and the first ram, then pipe over to the second ram. The cables are between the two rams, and are there to keep the two in sync.
On mine, there are two hydraulic pipes, one to each ram from the motor/pump assembly. On the mobile unit containing the control panel and motor/pump, there are several cables between the two......the reason I asked the question is because when I mount stuff on the wall, the motor and pump will be some distance from the control panel, and the existing cables won't span the distance that they'll be apart. I'll have another look later in case I've misunderstood something, but from what I've already seen, I'm fairly sure I'll have to extend about 4 cables in order to do what I want. I'll also more than likely have to extend the hydraulics, but that seems pretty straightforward.
Heaveho said:
On mine, there are two hydraulic pipes, one to each ram from the motor/pump assembly. On the mobile unit containing the control panel and motor/pump, there are several cables between the two......the reason I asked the question is because when I mount stuff on the wall, the motor and pump will be some distance from the control panel, and the existing cables won't span the distance that they'll be apart. I'll have another look later in case I've misunderstood something, but from what I've already seen, I'm fairly sure I'll have to extend about 4 cables in order to do what I want. I'll also more than likely have to extend the hydraulics, but that seems pretty straightforward.
OK, clearly a bit different to my Automotech two-poster.The pump/motor control is hung on one column. There's a single hydraulic pipe to the first ram. There's another hydraulic pipe from that ram, across the base, to the other - along with the two cables. To move the control to the wall, you'd only need to change that one hydraulic pipe.
The ZX is in mid air at the moment, sans exhaust. What a miserable bloody job. Remind me NEVER to apply for a job at Kwik-Fit...
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff