Making a full wiring loom from scratch

[stevieturbo]

Heat shrink Dymo labels make far better wiring labels, and not horrendously expensive.

But obviously need installed at appropriate times etc

[GreenV8S]

Dymo Rhino is the sort of thing I was looking at. I think heat shrink labels are the way to go - I'm not a fan of flag labels.

[anonymous-user]

watch out for thermal labels that go blank when they get hot.........

[anonymous-user]

Fastpedeller said:

IIRC the Escort had bulkhead connectors, which will be difficult to replicate with modern parts.

Buy some used cannon plugs from an aircraft.

[stevieturbo]

Max_Torque said:

watch out for thermal labels that go blank when they get hot.........

Cheap Dymo heat shrink labels seem to be fine, then just clear heat shrink over them

[GreenV8S]

Does it need a separate layer of heatshrink? Dymo say the Rhino printer prints directly onto heatshrink which looks like a quick and easy solution, but no use if the exposed printing isn't durable.

[CrutyRammers]

Max_Torque said:

Not if you buy a suitable identification system. ie



The fact you can then label every wire, and cross ref /document it makes fault finding easier imo!


A "loom board" type approach also makes things much, much neater!




use some cheap wire taped together to work out the lengths, routed and junctions, then fix it to a large MDF board. (you can screw cable tie saddles to each node point, with a large cable tie though each one, meaning wires can be slipped into the assy easily, cut to length, labelled, wrapped and then have their end plugs fitted etc

I'm sure that's the case when you know what you're doing, but for a first time you're going to get bits wrong, find you want to add some thing or relocate it, etc. All I can say is, where I skimped and didn't colour code, it made things harder.
Also, don't wrap it all up until it's in place and tested.

[bearman68]

I'm rewiring a 1930's car at the moment,and in the search for 'heritage' cables found these guys. They may well do a complete loom for our car. Easier than making it.

https://www.autosparks.co.uk/

Cheers

[anonymous-user]

Another important tip: NO SOLDERING


crimping only if you want a long term reliable loom !


(you can make a reliable soldered loom, but it's very very hard to do, and requires very good mechanical support, vibration damping and wire harness tieing/routing etc)

[Fastpedeller]

Max_Torque said:

Another important tip: NO SOLDERING


crimping only if you want a long term reliable loom !


(you can make a reliable soldered loom, but it's very very hard to do, and requires very good mechanical support, vibration damping and wire harness tieing/routing etc)

I wouldn't entirely agree, but I understand the reason for your statement.
I'd say there are benefits/disbenefits with both alternatives:-
If Soldering
a) If there is solder on the wire near the connector that part cannot 'flex' so is likely to break - this can be minimised by soldering with the connector at the lowest point so gravity doesn't pull solder along the wire, also using minimal solder
b) a resin flux shouldn't attack the wire, but removal of flux is best wherever possible

The alternative is to crimp, but that can also give problems
c) If the crimp isn't good the connector may fall off
d) Because there is (inevitably) a path for moisture between the wire strands and/or the connector, corrosion can happen