P2111 & P2110 fault code after engine swap

P2111 & P2110 fault code after engine swap

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PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Monday 8th January 2018
quotequote all
I have just spent a tortuous week repairing my aging Fiesta ST150 by putting a second hand engine in after the original developed a bottom end rattle.
The second hand engine came with all ancillaries and wiring loom.
I thought it would be a simple plug and play repair but today after final fluids and checks I tried to fire it up.
Engine check light and circular cog with ! And no start.
Looking up the P2110 & P2111 codes I checked connections then swapped throttle body for one of old engine and still got P2111 & P2110.
The only difference I can see between the old engine and the new is a valve on the head that connects to a water pipe on the Old engine which is not on the new, as I’m using the new loom I assumed this would be ok.

Can you tell me more about P2120 & P2111 codes.

My only option is to add the missing solenoid and fit the engine loom of the old engine but am not sure this is the correct thing to do

HELP

TooMany2cvs

29,008 posts

126 months

Monday 8th January 2018
quotequote all
You're using the new loom and sensors, but the old ECU?

How much difference in age?

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Monday 8th January 2018
quotequote all
Probably 2/3 years
The car is 06 plate

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Monday 8th January 2018
quotequote all

This is the only noticeable difference, it is on the old engine not on the new.
If I transplant this piece of equipment and the old loom could this solve my problem?

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Monday 8th January 2018
quotequote all

Close up of valve

Penelope Stoppedit

11,209 posts

109 months

Monday 8th January 2018
quotequote all
It will be best to fit the original loom and all sensors etc to the engine you have fitted, if you were to source a known correct ECU there may still be some incompatible wiring issues from the main vehicle harness to the fitted engines harness/ecu

Penelope Stoppedit

11,209 posts

109 months

Monday 8th January 2018
quotequote all
  • *Crossed posts***
You may be able to fit the part with its wiring but to be sure you would need to have 2 wiring diagrams in front of you that show everything else to be or not to be identicle before doing so

TooMany2cvs

29,008 posts

126 months

Monday 8th January 2018
quotequote all
PaulKemp said:
Probably 2/3 years
The car is 06 plate
That's almost certainly your problem, then.

Go with the entirety from one car, probably yours since that'll mean there's less likely to be compatibility issues with the rest of the electronics.

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Monday 8th January 2018
quotequote all
Thank you all, I had sort of come to that conclusion but needed some confirmation.
It makes sense to utilise as much of the original stuff, if only I had thought that before going so far.
Tomorrow I fire up the Lotus 7 replica so I can at least get to work.
Currently have 4 cars not on the road.

TekoTime

96 posts

96 months

Tuesday 9th January 2018
quotequote all
That valve is the EGR. It might be tied into the throttle system, which is why you're getting throttle body error codes.

You can either run without it and blank off the connector with a suitable resistor (check Google) or you can swap the EGR to the new engine.

Edited by TekoTime on Tuesday 9th January 01:18

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Tuesday 9th January 2018
quotequote all
The engine I have installed does not have the valve nor the loom plug. The valve is also piped into a coolant pipe which may be the trigger to open EGR
Will investigate more
Thank you

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Wednesday 10th January 2018
quotequote all
Very minor update.
I have today removed the engine loom that came with the engine, I only needed to remove the complete front of the car, an engine mount, crane the engine forward and break several fingers just to remove the multi plug and the +ve feed from the alternator, that however was simple in comparison to the removal of the rest of the loom.
Ho Hum
Have to go in to work for the rest of the week, at the weekend hope to plug the new/old loom in and see what happens

OldGermanHeaps

3,832 posts

178 months

Wednesday 10th January 2018
quotequote all
Coolant pipe will be egr cooler.

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Wednesday 10th January 2018
quotequote all
Thanks, yes cannser rhat now.
Previous experience with EGR was a Mondeo TDCI which had a large water exhaust gas cooler to cool the charge, I can see the Fiesta one has a coolant feed just to cool the valve

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Monday 15th January 2018
quotequote all
LATEST UPDATE

Loom fitted whilst Engine in, it only took 2 ½ hours to fit the alternator connections after once again removing the whole front of the car, undoing the engine mount and using an engine crane to give me an extra 2” of room.
A further 4 hours of threading the loom and solving some issues with the plugs and I fired it up, cranked with ignition off to build oil pressure then reconnected and it started, all warning symbols on the dash went out.
HURRAH
It seems it was just an incompatible loom. I have been advised to swap the fuel rail and injectors over from the original engine as some of the numbers are different.
There is still a lot of work to do, secure the loom properly, refit the EGR to the block, fit all the trim removed to access the job then get the suspension set up on a Hunter rig as I replaced anti roll bar bushes and drop links plus lower arms.

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Monday 15th January 2018
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I thought somebody by now would have posted congratulations

Congratulations all's well that ends well and life is so much more worth living when you DIY - Something like that

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Monday 15th January 2018
quotequote all
Thank you for your support.

I can tell you there were times when I thought this was a job to far in so far as I gave myself plenty of time but clearly not enough and started getting pressure to return to work, the weather was mostly wet/cold/windy and I did the job on the drive.
I have now bought an old shed to get to work in andchave resolved to recommission a Mondeo TDCI i have in storage and further press on and get the Lotus 7 replica back on the road.
The broken Duratec engine will be rebuilt and put in the Fisher Fury so not all is lost.
I confess to being rather chuffed at finally getting it running again.

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Monday 15th January 2018
quotequote all
PaulKemp said:
Thank you for your support.

I can tell you there were times when I thought this was a job to far in so far as I gave myself plenty of time but clearly not enough and started getting pressure to return to work, the weather was mostly wet/cold/windy and I did the job on the drive.
I have now bought an old shed to get to work in andchave resolved to recommission a Mondeo TDCI i have in storage and further press on and get the Lotus 7 replica back on the road.
The broken Duratec engine will be rebuilt and put in the Fisher Fury so not all is lost.
I confess to being rather chuffed at finally getting it running again.
And so you should be chuffed, many outside winter jobs seem to go bad for me, I reckon if you were warm with the sun shining you would have found it much easier, cold hands and the loss of the delicate touch come into play
No need for me to mention "keep busy" is there

PaulKemp

Original Poster:

979 posts

145 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
quotequote all
Minor update, on Friday I Took another day off and using some proper loom clips similar to the OEM ones I had to cut off I secured the loom properly to the engine/car, fitted the EGR properly and put back all the trim and wheels, started the car and let it run in the driveway to check for leaks (there were none) and check the engine cooling fan would kick in (it did) then take it for a short run.
First problem was rear brakes had stuck on then steering wheel when driving preferred to be about 20 degrees off center, this s probably down to the replacement of anti roll bar bushes, drop links and both bottom A arms, this I hope will be cured when I get it setup on a Hunter alignment system.
The bigger problem was the unberleavably tight gear change so today in the falling snow I investigated, I thought the gear change cable would be trapped or twisted under the loom and or water pipes but whilst I was taking the cables off the gearbox linkages I noted one cable was not fully in the support bracket and the main external lever mechanism was very stiff, a known problem with the nylon bushes. I took the lever off, lightly reamed the bushes, found rust in the space between the bushes, cleared it out, properly cleaned the bushes and the pivot post on the gearbox and packed with moly grease, boy does that feel better.
All being well it’s just the alignment left on the list.

OldGermanHeaps

3,832 posts

178 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
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Well done. I bet it will be satisfying to drive for a long time.