New engine?!? Help!!! VW POLO 1.2 S

[Coilspring]

jessie81 said:

Jobs technician said they had done;
no electronic fault found
timing checked and is fine
compression test - very low compression in two cylinders
wet compression test - found compression increased
therefore feels problem with pistons.

I asked what would cause such problems with pistons he said supermarket fuel, this causes carbon build up! Is this right? I know there are different grades of fuel but it cant be that bad can it?

Reading this information, is different to this

[Coilspring]

jessie81 said:

UPDATE

Contact from VW stating;

They cant give a reason for piston seal failing, but they believe it has due to compression tests.
Their job card states ;
Cyl 1 - 1.1bar - Wet test - 6.5bar
Cly 2 - 6.5 bar - Wet test - 11.0 bar
Cyl 3 - 11 bar

They have said it needs a new engine as this engine is a sealed unit and cannot replace things such as pistons or piston rings. Is this right?

They have opened up engine and no damage visible including damage to valves.

They have said that as my mechanic diagnosed based on a visual assessment of the Cams on the back of the Cam shaft and noticing it not lined up correctly, their test supersedes this as they use specialist tools to check it.

They are going to look into goodwill payment but not holding out much hope. Anyone know how much this could potentially be, if they agree to it?

Thanks again all.

[jessie81]

In what way is it different?

There's different information covered. Do you mean conflictingly different?

[Coilspring]

jessie81 said:

UPDATE

Contact from VW stating;

They cant give a reason for piston seal failing, but they believe it has due to compression tests.
Their job card states ;
Cyl 1 - 1.1bar - Wet test - 6.5bar
Cly 2 - 6.5 bar - Wet test - 11.0 bar
Cyl 3 - 11 bar

They have said it needs a new engine as this engine is a sealed unit and cannot replace things such as pistons or piston rings. Is this right?

They have opened up engine and no damage visible including damage to valves.

They have said that as mechanic diagnosed based on a visual assessment of the Cams on the back of the Cam shaft and noticing it not lined up correctly, their test supersedes this as they use specialist tools to check it.

They are going to look into goodwill payment but not holding out much hope. Anyone know how much this could potentially be, if they agree to it?

Thanks again all.

I still don't really understand their diagnosis, and they definitely have dismissed your mechanics assessment that it wasn't lined up correctly. Not sure I am comfortable with such a fundamental difference of opinion.

The 1st post states poor compression on 2 cylinders, the 2nd states poor compression on cyl 1, and improved compression on 2nd cylinder on the wet test. This does suggest piston ring failure, but no sign of any damage in the bores. This is possible, but unlikely. It is also possible just head, or head gasket failure. Why have they dismissed it (there may well be good reasons), or not done a leak down test?

But no explanation why it has suddenly happened at a non start.

What mileage has the engine done, how long have you owned it. Has it always been serviced by vw?

[jessie81]

Hi all,

Back again, need some more advice if any of you have time.

So, brief background to earlier posts, my car broke down and had a new engine fitted by VW. The day I picked it up it wouldn't start and they found a fault with a sensor telling the car the coolant was too cold. They knocked the fault of and I drove away, happy days. However, three days later the car wouldn't start again, so back to the dealership. Sensor broken and they replaced this free of change, again happy days.

However, upon driving the car it was pulling to the left really badly, called VW and booked this back in. The car did not have this problem before it went to them initially back in April.

VW did another health check on the car and state that the car is pulling for the following reasons;
1. tyres are worn on the front (still well within legal limit) and so not gripping the road adequately
2. Nearside front shock absorber misting oil
3.Offside rear wheel binding on
4.Offside front shick absorber leak

They have advised that all of these problems are degenerative. But, at the cars MOT in May none of these issues were present (mechanic did notice the tyres were starting to crack slightly down the middle but no action was yet necessary).

So, these problems were not present before car went into VW, they are stating they are degenerative and causing the car the veer to the left, but none of them were present on the MOT or in their April health check.

VW switched the front and rear tyres around and this has lessened the pull to the left, however as this wasn't a problem before them getting the car is this masking something else that was wrong.

My question is could VW have caused these issues (not the tyres of course) since working on the car. I'm suspicious due to the problems thus far (detailed earlier in thread) and the fact that they state problems are degenerative but my mechanic did not see them during MOT.

Also, they had the car on multiple lengthy test drives and so I guess the car could have sustained injury then, although they deny this as they dont drive anywhere near curbs! Which of course they do!

Thanks in advance and sorry for length of post.

[Coilspring]

jessie81 said:

Hi all,

Back again, need some more advice if any of you have time.

So, brief background to earlier posts, my car broke down and had a new engine fitted by VW. The day I picked it up it wouldn't start and they found a fault with a sensor telling the car the coolant was too cold. They knocked the fault of and I drove away, happy days. However, three days later the car wouldn't start again, so back to the dealership. Sensor broken and they replaced this free of change, again happy days.

However, upon driving the car it was pulling to the left really badly, called VW and booked this back in. The car did not have this problem before it went to them initially back in April.

VW did another health check on the car and state that the car is pulling for the following reasons;
1. tyres are worn on the front (still well within legal limit) and so not gripping the road adequately
2. Nearside front shock absorber misting oil
3.Offside rear wheel binding on
4.Offside front shick absorber leak

They have advised that all of these problems are degenerative. But, at the cars MOT in May none of these issues were present (mechanic did notice the tyres were starting to crack slightly down the middle but no action was yet necessary).

So, these problems were not present before car went into VW, they are stating they are degenerative and causing the car the veer to the left, but none of them were present on the MOT or in their April health check.

VW switched the front and rear tyres around and this has lessened the pull to the left, however as this wasn't a problem before them getting the car is this masking something else that was wrong.

My question is could VW have caused these issues (not the tyres of course) since working on the car. I'm suspicious due to the problems thus far (detailed earlier in thread) and the fact that they state problems are degenerative but my mechanic did not see them during MOT.

Also, they had the car on multiple lengthy test drives and so I guess the car could have sustained injury then, although they deny this as they dont drive anywhere near curbs! Which of course they do!

Thanks in advance and sorry for length of post.

Lots in there. Will just pick at it a bit.

Point 1. So the tyres are worn? It happens on every car at some point.
Point 2. This may have the most bearing on the pulling, I would suggest a 2nd opinion before doing anything.
Point 4. As point 3. Why have they described it differently though? 2nd opinion required.
Point 3. How badly is it binding? Have they said urgent inspection or action required? 2nd opinion required, it is a very subjective thing and cannot be answered on here.

None of that addresses the issue of the car pulling, or why, or how it has happened. I think a tracking check is the 1st step to take, not at your vw dealer though. I don't know who they are but they don't inspire me with confidence with your car and story.

It may well have been caused by a test drive and too many kerbs (or potholes in fairness), but you have no chance of proving that. May just have to bite the bullet and sort the tracking yourself. If that doesn't cure your issues then it has to be back to vw dealer telling him what you have done and ask why it is still pulling, and that it didn't do it before. It is unlikely to be directly related to engine replacement, but mountings and such like may affect it. The 2nd opinion may give you more information and advise etc.

[jessie81]

hi,

Thanks for your reply.

Should have said vw did do a tracking test and it was pretty much spot on bar one wheel which was a tiny tiny fraction out.

By mountings do you mean engine mountings?

They accused me of lying when I stated the car wasn't like that previously. Which obviously didn't go down well, but like you say it's hard if not impossible to prove.

Second opinion seems the way to go, but seems unfair I've to lay out money when they have returned the car with new repairs needed.

As I said my main concern is that switching the tyres has improved the problem but is likely masking another issue.

[Coilspring]

jessie81 said:

hi,

Thanks for your reply.

Should have said vw did do a tracking test and it was pretty much spot on bar one wheel which was a tiny tiny fraction out.

By mountings do you mean engine mountings?

They accused me of lying when I stated the car wasn't like that previously. Which obviously didn't go down well, but like you say it's hard if not impossible to prove.

Second opinion seems the way to go, but seems unfair I've to lay out money when they have returned the car with new repairs needed.

As I said my main concern is that switching the tyres has improved the problem but is likely masking another issue.

By mountings, yes engine mountings. It is unlikely, but it is possible and tracking should sort it if so.

I don't think you can prove it is their fault, or actions, even though deep down you are sure it is. But 2nd opinion should only be moderate cost, if any. If you have a regular mechanic you might even get the opinion free.

But they might be able to find a fault or reason that you could specifically go back to vw with. But I don't hold a lot of hope for you.

Good luck. Keep posting any info though.

[GreenV8S]

Dampers wearing out and leaking is normal wear and tear. It's very unlikely they have done anything to cause or aggravate that and most likely it is just a progressive problem which has cropped up recently.

I'm a little alarmed at the idea that tyres cracking does not warrant immediate attention. Tyres don't develop cracks unless the rubber is degraded, which is potentially safety critical.

Brakes sticking is also the result of normal wear and tear.

[simlock]

Gary C said:

Sorry, just noticed your car is 6 years old. VW have had several 1.2 engine designs and the AZQ engine was popular for jumping its timing and I have overhauled one of these.

But that engine was in a 2003 car, so its not going to apply to you, sorry

Hi Gary, was wondering if you can help me, we have the same car that you mention, 2003, we think the chain may have slipped can you tell me how to tell if it has slipped, i have stripped it down, and taken the casing off, i have found the timing marks, and lined them up, i have looked at the back of the cam slots, one of the cam have the grove almost horizontal, and the other it at about a 45 degrees, does this mean it has slipped? and if so, what would be your recommendations, we bough this car with the chain just done off a dealer,here's the picture, we have had a compression test done, and they all come back fine. thanks

Edited by simlock on Thursday 7th May 21:39

[Chris32345]

simlock said:

Hi Gary, was wondering if you can help me, we have the same car that you mention, 2003, we think the chain may have slipped can you tell me how to tell if it has slipped, i have stripped it down, and taken the casing off, i have found the timing marks, and lined them up, i have looked at the back of the cam slots, one of the cam have the grove almost horizontal, and the other it at about a 45 degrees, does this mean it has slipped? and if so, what would be your recommendations, we bough this car with the chain just done off a dealer,here's the picture, we have had a compression test done, and they all come back fine. thanks

Edited by simlock on Thursday 7th May 21:39

If your cam timing was out by 45 degrees the engine wouldn't run
Your valve timing would be too far out




You said the chain has just been done by the dealer. Do you have an issue with the car?
If not why do you think the timing is out

Edited by Chris32345 on Friday 8th May 08:37

[Gary C]

simlock said:

Gary C said:

Sorry, just noticed your car is 6 years old. VW have had several 1.2 engine designs and the AZQ engine was popular for jumping its timing and I have overhauled one of these.

But that engine was in a 2003 car, so its not going to apply to you, sorry

Hi Gary, was wondering if you can help me, we have the same car that you mention, 2003, we think the chain may have slipped can you tell me how to tell if it has slipped, i have stripped it down, and taken the casing off, i have found the timing marks, and lined them up, i have looked at the back of the cam slots, one of the cam have the grove almost horizontal, and the other it at about a 45 degrees, does this mean it has slipped? and if so, what would be your recommendations, we bough this car with the chain just done off a dealer,here's the picture, we have had a compression test done, and they all come back fine. thanks

Edited by simlock on Thursday 7th May 21:39

It looks slipped, the cams should have the slots at the same angle, but I cant tell what the inset picture is ?

It is a fairly simple job to fix. Parts about £100 of amazon but its quite an involved job to take the timing case off and needs alaignment tools (which are also available on amazon). If you are mechanically competent and dont mind a bit of messing about, its a two day job (oe one when you have done it before.

[Gary C]

This picture shows that your cams have indeed slipped

https://www.picoauto.com/images/uploads/case-studi...

If they 'did the chain' ask if they also did the tensioner and the guides plus sprockets.

The complete kit is chain, both cam sprockets, crank sproket, left and right guides and hydraulic tensioner, plus new bolts.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0068MZ1UI/ref...

Its not OEM (probably Chinese) but mine has been in for three years with no problem