Discussion
You could get a whole scrap car for £50-£100, this would be the best way, as you will need the ECU's and wiring loom..Around Circa 100k on the clock, which isn't a problem, (mine has 176k on the engine) Do the work yourself, make sure you put a new VOLVO clutch in it, as its a shit to do afterwards, and the volvo one is the strongest you can get.
= engine swap for Sub £200
standard 1.7 turbo engine has 122hp/175NM of torque (190NM on 93-on models)
I get 33MPG Average out of my 480T, which weighs 1050KG
Compare that to your 1.2
£80 sent in the direction of an acquaintance of mine will see a bit of ECU rewiring to up the boost, and a spot of reprogamming to allow the fuel to match, and should see 160-170hp on the dyno
>> Edited by chris1roll on Thursday 16th June 22:49
>> Edited by chris1roll on Thursday 16th June 22:50
= engine swap for Sub £200
standard 1.7 turbo engine has 122hp/175NM of torque (190NM on 93-on models)
I get 33MPG Average out of my 480T, which weighs 1050KG
Compare that to your 1.2
£80 sent in the direction of an acquaintance of mine will see a bit of ECU rewiring to up the boost, and a spot of reprogamming to allow the fuel to match, and should see 160-170hp on the dyno
>> Edited by chris1roll on Thursday 16th June 22:49
>> Edited by chris1roll on Thursday 16th June 22:50
i dont have that kind of money for buying a completely new car, but ill look into that engine... and im just looking for ideas on what to do with the car
things ive done so far:
(thanks for all the help)
-i installed the k&n filter, the sound is nicer and acceleration slighlty better (for only 50$). we will se about the mpg.
-also ive thrown out much stuff out of the car (at least 10 kilos worth), and it fells lighter now. that gave me another nippy boost. ill probably throw out some more
-a few days ago i switched to fully synthetic oil 5w-40, and i already feel the mpg increased and engine smoothed.
im planning on getting wider and shorter tires for improving acceleration and braking...
any other suggestions appreciated!
>> Edited by avance70 on Friday 17th June 00:54
things ive done so far:
(thanks for all the help)
-i installed the k&n filter, the sound is nicer and acceleration slighlty better (for only 50$). we will se about the mpg.
-also ive thrown out much stuff out of the car (at least 10 kilos worth), and it fells lighter now. that gave me another nippy boost. ill probably throw out some more
-a few days ago i switched to fully synthetic oil 5w-40, and i already feel the mpg increased and engine smoothed.
im planning on getting wider and shorter tires for improving acceleration and braking...
any other suggestions appreciated!
>> Edited by avance70 on Friday 17th June 00:54
My suggestion is continue along the same lines as you already have, that is making the car handle better and better utilising what power it has. Even if you managed to increase power by 10% that is still a tiny figure and given the base level is not that much. If you want noise then perhaps change the backbox and get an induction kit or fab up some cold air feed and mod your airbox.
avance70 said:
i dont have that kind of money for buying a completely new car
I don't know how much your car is worth but you can easily buy a faster car than what you have got for £500. Maybe the insurance will be more but the insurance co is also likely hike the premium if you mod your car.
If you really want to make your car faster I'd suggest forgetting about buying any bolt on goodies for it and concentrate on modifying the driver instead. The same money spent on some good quality driver training will allow you to get the most out of your car (and any other car you own in the future). Quite simply a far better investment.
Ditch the FI crap and put some Webers on it, port the head out massively and fit a 300 deg cam, up the CR to about 14:1, run avgas and a straight through 'zorst.
Fokkinmentoe as they say in Plimuff.
I expect the standard breathing to be good on the engine, I reckon the FI map is where the snag would be, might be an idea to see what megasquirt could do.
Fokkinmentoe as they say in Plimuff.
I expect the standard breathing to be good on the engine, I reckon the FI map is where the snag would be, might be an idea to see what megasquirt could do.
wouldnt a 1.2 lose bhp?
All you would gain from a 1.6 or lower (im guessing) is a nice growl & sucking sound from the kit.
I recently had a K&N inductionkit fitted on my 1.6 I gained a
sweet growl under the bonnet and from the exhaust but i thinks thats only because of the full scorpian system i got. I dont think i gainned any power and i noticed 1st gear seems less responsive from a stand still (Unless i get my revs ready at like 2000)once 1st gets to 2000 its just as good as it was.
Also it is proved that big exhausts on 1.0 - 1.2 actualy sap power so i can only presume a K&N will also sap power.
All you would gain from a 1.6 or lower (im guessing) is a nice growl & sucking sound from the kit.
I recently had a K&N inductionkit fitted on my 1.6 I gained a
sweet growl under the bonnet and from the exhaust but i thinks thats only because of the full scorpian system i got. I dont think i gainned any power and i noticed 1st gear seems less responsive from a stand still (Unless i get my revs ready at like 2000)once 1st gets to 2000 its just as good as it was. Also it is proved that big exhausts on 1.0 - 1.2 actualy sap power so i can only presume a K&N will also sap power.
sumplug said:
the K&N kit is no good unless you alter the fueling,map,exhaust and cam.
Not so. Did some work with a company on behalf of Daihatsu developing a 'sport pack' for the latest Charade. Oh stop laughing...
Just replacing the standard air filter with a foam ITG panel replacement showed about 2bhp increase on the rollers. OK, not staggering, but it's only a small engine and it was a cheap and easy power hike.
As for the 'if they're that good why don't manufacturers fit them as standard' question - COST!
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