Running In Engines
Discussion
IMO you need to bed the rings in first so fire it up and give it some hard blips on the throttle. Then if it's a pushrod engine you need to hold at 3000 rpm's for some 20 mins so as not to overload the cam lobes. Most people won't be able to do this in one go because of niggles/gremlins to sort. So do it in several goes if need be.
On the road vary the load and revs so as to get the oil splashed up the bores. Don't pussy foot around, make the engine do some work but don't be reckless.
Boosted.
On the road vary the load and revs so as to get the oil splashed up the bores. Don't pussy foot around, make the engine do some work but don't be reckless.
Boosted.
I like what I'm hearing 
seeing as im interested in RV8's that will make it 20-30mins of aural pleasure. Does a rolling road session count as varied throttle runs?
After that I plan some shake down runs on an airstrip, geometry check/corner weight session, then a Wednesday morning at Mallory...and try to remember to turn right at Gerrards this time.
Regards
Iain
seeing as im interested in RV8's that will make it 20-30mins of aural pleasure. Does a rolling road session count as varied throttle runs? After that I plan some shake down runs on an airstrip, geometry check/corner weight session, then a Wednesday morning at Mallory...and try to remember to turn right at Gerrards this time.
Regards
Iain
Boosted Ls1 said:
IMO you need to bed the rings in first so fire it up and give it some hard blips on the throttle. Then if it's a pushrod engine you need to hold at 3000 rpm's for some 20 mins so as not to overload the cam lobes. Most people won't be able to do this in one go because of niggles/gremlins to sort. So do it in several goes if need be.
Boosted.
And to clarify, if you do have a niggle or little leak shut the engine down completely - dont let it idle whilst you try to fix it.
I've also been told that if there is any doubt at all that the engine is going to fire at the first turn of the key, it is worth fitting softer valve springs for the critical initial running in period. One of the worst things you can do is let a new cam churn over on the starter, it needs revs straight away to unload the lifters at peak lift.
eliot said:
IMO you need to bed the rings in first so fire it up and give it some hard blips on the throttle. Then if it's a pushrod engine you need to hold at 3000 rpm's for some 20 mins so as not to overload the cam lobes. Most people won't be able to do this in one go because of niggles/gremlins to sort. So do it in several goes if need be.
Boosted.
And to clarify, if you do have a niggle or little leak shut the engine down completely - dont let it idle whilst you try to fix it.
Well said that man
Boosted.
Boosted Ls1 said:
IMO you need to bed the rings in first so fire it up and give it some hard blips on the throttle. Then if it's a pushrod engine you need to hold at 3000 rpm's for some 20 mins so as not to overload the cam lobes. Most people won't be able to do this in one go because of niggles/gremlins to sort. So do it in several goes if need be.
Boosted.
And to clarify, if you do have a niggle or little leak shut the engine down completely - dont let it idle whilst you try to fix it.
Well said that man
Boosted.
Yeah or its bye bye camlobes..
WHAT!!! A PH topic that I've been involved in that hasn't descended into a bun fight. Must be something to do with the new year, don't worry folks, normal service will be resumed soon, I'll just throw in an erroneous comment and then try and defend it for a while.
...do you all the know the urban myth about running in F1 engines by running them without oil for 30seconds?
By the way, what oil would you use? Again I'll probably run with the advice of my engine builder however, I'm thinking...
- Halfords 20w50 "Not for use in post 1980 vehicles" for the initial 20-30mins run in
- A fairly decent possibly semi 20w50 for the next hour or so
- Silkolene Pro Race dogs bollox stuff that opieman (and others) recommend for the remainder of its life.
Regards
Iain
...do you all the know the urban myth about running in F1 engines by running them without oil for 30seconds?
By the way, what oil would you use? Again I'll probably run with the advice of my engine builder however, I'm thinking...
- Halfords 20w50 "Not for use in post 1980 vehicles" for the initial 20-30mins run in
- A fairly decent possibly semi 20w50 for the next hour or so
- Silkolene Pro Race dogs bollox stuff that opieman (and others) recommend for the remainder of its life.
Regards
Iain
I'm picking up a 928 on Friday with a newly built engine in it. I've been told that the very initial run-in has been done, but that for the first 1000 miles, no reving to the redline, and no letting the engine get bogged down in a high gear. Once 1000 miles reached, back to builder for full engine service.
At a company I used to work for, we had a spate of warranty claims for excessive oil consumption shortly after Mobil 1 was launched. After various discussions with Mobil, we were advised (by them) to put their ordinary mineral oil in until at least 1000 miles, then switch to Mobil 1. I gather the stuff didn't allow the rings to bed into the bores properly. That was a good 10 years ago so I don't know if things had changed since but I could see the sense in the suggestion!
Right so the general consensus is give the bugger a hard time to allow the rings and cam to bed in properly and use cheap oil, but dont be a really numpty and end up cooking the crank by using freshly reclaimed chip shop coking oil and having to go back to square one.
Cheers folks, I'll look forward to that in a few weeks time!
Regards
Iain
Cheers folks, I'll look forward to that in a few weeks time! Regards
Iain
I havent really looked through the other posts but i always give the motor a resonably hard time, a good quality 50 grade oil ( rover v8 by the way!) on initial start up make sure all the air is out of the water system by blowing through it with you mouth or something!! ps anti frezze dont taste nice! when it fires dont drop below 2500 revs for twenty minutes if you have a problem kill the motor and then restart, for the first hour of driving leave it in third and keep going from 1500 rpm through to 4500 under ful accelaration after this drive as you please but try not to let the engine idle!
Ordinary mineral oil as synth is to slippery and the rings don't bed.
Start and run above 2000revs for min 20 minutes. This is for the cam.
Work hard but varied after that. This is to bed the rings. The guys in the US say slog it up a hill a few times.
My engine (SBC 407ci) ran for the first time on Peter Knights engine dyno. This has a computer break in program which brings up the revs, loads the engine with the dyno brake, releases the load and lowers the revs again. Then it does it again and again for half an hour while we had our lunch.
Very pleasant ambient noise to eat a meal by.
Steve
That's got me wondering, should I put the engine on a dyno to run it in, instead of sat in the car, because from the 20/30 mins run there wont really be much more running until im doing shake down runs on an airfield, rolling road session or testing.
Should I get it run for a couple of hours at varying speeds on a dyno? This doesnt sound a cheap option though.
...or maybe I should just be grateful for what I have and leave that to be that.
Regards
Iain
Should I get it run for a couple of hours at varying speeds on a dyno? This doesnt sound a cheap option though.
...or maybe I should just be grateful for what I have and leave that to be that.
Regards
Iain
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