Xflow sump gasket

Author
Discussion

nevpugh308

Original Poster:

4,119 posts

205 months

Tuesday 8th April 2003
quotequote all
Should sump gaskets on dry sump systems (metal pressed steel pan) be (thick) card or cork, or doesn't it matter ?

Burtons have sent me a card gasket, but now I'm tightening it up I'm not overly convinced it's going to be thick enough to seal totally (the old, fairly thick cork gasket was quite compressed)

Also, anyone know offhand what lb/ft I should tighten to ? (I really must get a manual !)

BIF

149 posts

198 months

Wednesday 9th April 2003
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Not certain of the torque as I too have mislaid the manual. The gasket supplied is usually fitted with a light sealant, applied to the block, then fit gasket, then applied to either other side of gasket or sump [something like Hylomar would be good, available from most engine rebuilders]

zefarelly

229 posts

193 months

Thursday 10th April 2003
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typically paper is used with aluminium as its harder/ more rigid, paper is denser and you get a better seal

cork is used for pressed steel as its form isnt so good, as corks softer it will take up any fluctuations

both the last ford kent engines I dismantled had no gasket, just copious amounts of silicone sealant, its seems to work well, as long as all is clean and dry prior to assembly

nevpugh308

Original Poster:

4,119 posts

205 months

Friday 11th April 2003
quotequote all
I think I'll whip it off (oo err matron) again and apply a load of sealant then, just to be on the safe side. Thanks all

zefarelly

229 posts

193 months

Friday 11th April 2003
quotequote all
so just to confirm . . .your going to whip it off, rub it hard to get off any oil, smother it with rubbery goo, then slap it back on again.

the swiss tony mechanical technique I think its called

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nevpugh308

Original Poster:

4,119 posts

205 months

Friday 11th April 2003
quotequote all
Changing a sump gasket is like making love to a beautiful woman .....

(I wish!)