'95 RV8 block OR 2000 RV8 block

[AntonyJ]

Quick question about RV8 block production.
1995 RV8 block OR 2000 RV8 block
I have ( which are due to go for pressure testing) two RV8 cross bolted blocks.
Now , should the tests both prove that (as suspected) they both have the need for top liners to be fitted, would there be any choice between the two production years that I have?

The 1995 is a 4.6 originally and the 2000 block was a 4.0

[Chassis 33]

Let me check, (the different types of block are in Des Hammils book) but I think the 4.6 "should" be the better option. It's something to do with the 4.6's having bores to a closer tolerance than the 4.0's.

Regards
Iain

[AntonyJ]

Chassis 33 said:

Let me check, (the different types of block are in Des Hammils book) but I think the 4.6 "should" be the better option. It's something to do with the 4.6's having bores to a closer tolerance than the 4.0's.

Regards
Iain

Got that book too Iain,all it says is about the paint scribes indicating quality.
But as the winning block will be top hat lined anyway I can see how it will make any difference.

Also spoke to Rob Robertson earlier and he reckons no choice between the two.

So....

[Chassis 33]

In that case go for the one you have the best feeling about

Regards
Iain

[pugwash4x4]

if you're going to get either top hat linered then in reality it's going to make very little difference.

there are all sorts of urban myths that seem to go around about different castings being better or worse, but in the 4 or 5 that i've had, that hasn't ever been an overriding factor. Top hat liners and a line bore completed by a reuptable engineers are extremely important.

[spend]

Different crank sensors (mounts the same IIRC), which ever is easier for you to blank/grind off. I'd look for the one with the smoother internal casting fash marks IIWM.

Dave