K-Series headgasket questions (it went pop)...
Discussion
I dont know why, but every exhaust manifold nut ive tried to undo on a k-series head has undone, even when they look like there seized solid, (Maybe something to do with the heads being on and off so much!) just make sure you get a good bite on the bolt with a decent six sided socket, With these engines people sometimes have thermostat done, waterpump etc all to no avail, my First port of call would be to change the HG there not too bad to do anyway.
Theres a small kit you can buy from Blue point, (its not cheap though!) you screw a cap with a fitting on it into the header tank and fill the tester with blue dye then run it up and if it turns a different colour it indicates combustion in the water system
Theres a small kit you can buy from Blue point, (its not cheap though!) you screw a cap with a fitting on it into the header tank and fill the tester with blue dye then run it up and if it turns a different colour it indicates combustion in the water system
Well got under the bloomin thing today and found where it is leaking from, naturally it wouldn't be something easy or free, it looks like the water pump has let go.
Had the previous owner changed the water pump when they did the timing belt then this wouldn't be happening. Still it isn't too bad the cambelt only has about 5-10k left in it anyway so will do the whole lot. The next owner is going to get a treat with this car it will all be new!
Had the previous owner changed the water pump when they did the timing belt then this wouldn't be happening. Still it isn't too bad the cambelt only has about 5-10k left in it anyway so will do the whole lot. The next owner is going to get a treat with this car it will all be new!
bob1179 said:
The head gasket on my trusty little Rover 214i went pop over the weekend and I need to get all the bits together to sort it out.
I was wondering if anybody has any advice or any tips to make it easier to do the job?
It's only the 80bhp 1.4 8 valve model so not too complex, I do plan to check the head and get it skimmed if there is any warpage and I want to fit the uprated head gasket kit (if it is available for the 1.4).
Where is the best place to get the head gasket and manifold kit, cam belt, drive belts and new cylinder head bolts from? Is there a complete kit available with everything in it?
etc
Speak to Dave Andrews at DVA Power - http://www.dvapower.co.uk/I was wondering if anybody has any advice or any tips to make it easier to do the job?
It's only the 80bhp 1.4 8 valve model so not too complex, I do plan to check the head and get it skimmed if there is any warpage and I want to fit the uprated head gasket kit (if it is available for the 1.4).
Where is the best place to get the head gasket and manifold kit, cam belt, drive belts and new cylinder head bolts from? Is there a complete kit available with everything in it?
etc
What he doesn't know about K series isn't worth knowing.
Steve
Edited by Merritt on Monday 27th October 13:12
Just to add to this thread we sorted Emmas car out in the end. This is here incase it helps anyone in the future on the search function.
Leaking water under 1.4 8v engine was originally suspected to be inlet manifold gasket, this was changed easily and cheaply but didn't solve the issue, so it turned out to be the water pump.
To change was simply a case of taking off the top outer timing case cover (5 or 6 bolts) these are all 8mm heads, one at the bottom corner however is a 10mm head, this doesn't need to be removed only loosened, more on this later. Remove cover.
Slacken off tensioner, variety of different designs on different engines but same principle, in this case remove spring, remove 8mm headed bolt (hidden up near the cam pulley) holding the adjuster mechanism, then loosen and remove the centre holding bolt. Remove entire tensioner.
Be careful with the belt if you damage it it will need replacing (it would be a good idea to change anyway) remove old pump, fiddly but doable, remove one 8mm headed bolt from behind the case (near dipstick tube, I loosened dipstick tube by removing top bolt for ease of access) and then the ring of bolts holding it to the engine, there are about 6, mostly 8mm heads but 2 13mm heads which are tower bolts with a thread cut in to the top for one of the cover screws to fit and that 10mm pinch bolt to fit in to.
Remove pump being careful of the belt.
You will probably see the O ring is split or in this case the rear seal had gone on the pump and there was a nice rusty stream of water going down it.
Carefully seat new o ring in new pump (there is a little groove) and gently fit it in place make sure the o-ring is still seated, if it pops out then it will never seal. Then refit everything. When tensioning up the belt ask for some advice on here, but don't do it up too tight it will break.
Leaking water under 1.4 8v engine was originally suspected to be inlet manifold gasket, this was changed easily and cheaply but didn't solve the issue, so it turned out to be the water pump.
To change was simply a case of taking off the top outer timing case cover (5 or 6 bolts) these are all 8mm heads, one at the bottom corner however is a 10mm head, this doesn't need to be removed only loosened, more on this later. Remove cover.
Slacken off tensioner, variety of different designs on different engines but same principle, in this case remove spring, remove 8mm headed bolt (hidden up near the cam pulley) holding the adjuster mechanism, then loosen and remove the centre holding bolt. Remove entire tensioner.
Be careful with the belt if you damage it it will need replacing (it would be a good idea to change anyway) remove old pump, fiddly but doable, remove one 8mm headed bolt from behind the case (near dipstick tube, I loosened dipstick tube by removing top bolt for ease of access) and then the ring of bolts holding it to the engine, there are about 6, mostly 8mm heads but 2 13mm heads which are tower bolts with a thread cut in to the top for one of the cover screws to fit and that 10mm pinch bolt to fit in to.
Remove pump being careful of the belt.
You will probably see the O ring is split or in this case the rear seal had gone on the pump and there was a nice rusty stream of water going down it.
Carefully seat new o ring in new pump (there is a little groove) and gently fit it in place make sure the o-ring is still seated, if it pops out then it will never seal. Then refit everything. When tensioning up the belt ask for some advice on here, but don't do it up too tight it will break.
Cheers for the info wildoliver.
I went back home this weekend and took a look at the car, but I still haven't ordered the gasket kit, and as it was my birthday and I was heading straight to the pub for a few beers I decided to knock any potential work on the head and leave it until next time I head back.
I will get stuck in and sort it as my Dad needs a car over Christmas and it might as well be used.
I'll keep you posted as to how it goes.
I went back home this weekend and took a look at the car, but I still haven't ordered the gasket kit, and as it was my birthday and I was heading straight to the pub for a few beers I decided to knock any potential work on the head and leave it until next time I head back.
I will get stuck in and sort it as my Dad needs a car over Christmas and it might as well be used.
I'll keep you posted as to how it goes.
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