Badlanz electric cutouts, slight issue

[ARAF]

We've dyno'd with standard system, standard with cutouts open, and standard with cutouts closed. All gave exactly the same power.


I think one of ours is stuck, so will have a look at it over the weekend, if I get time.

[KMud]

ARAF said:

We've dyno'd with standard system, standard with cutouts open, and standard with cutouts closed. All gave exactly the same power.


I think one of ours is stuck, so will have a look at it over the weekend, if I get time.

Were the curves identical or just peak? Are your pipes coupled and if so is it upstream of the cut-outs? Not doubting you, just interested

[ARAF]

KMud said:

ARAF said:

We've dyno'd with standard system, standard with cutouts open, and standard with cutouts closed. All gave exactly the same power.


I think one of ours is stuck, so will have a look at it over the weekend, if I get time.

Were the curves identical or just peak? Are your pipes coupled and if so is it upstream of the cut-outs? Not doubting you, just interested

We're still on the standard system, and the cutouts are just before the rear silencers, so the centre box still does the coupling.

Curves were identical (give or take). Basically it showed that the standard rear boxes cut noise, but not power.

[StefanVXR8]

On my old car my 1/4 mile times were no different with the valves open or closed and mine were placed immediately behind the cats.

Stef

[V8Monaro]

I can't figure out why the car would perform so much differently with the pipes completely sealed up then? I am actually thinking about removing the Y pipes and just wielding the original section back in it is such a big difference. The rattling from the butterfly plate, would that cause this?

[VinceM]

Seriously tempted by one of these kits

[99PBATR]

I am just to buy one of the Badlanz dual cut out kits for the Ro with the custom Y neck. A few questions....Firstly where do most people suggest you cut and mount them, as there seem to be several schools of thought on this?
Secondly, I like the idea of having a flip cover fighter plane type switch to operate them, situated in the centre console cubby box. However I notice they come with a rocker type switch, so is the switch I'm thinking of, if I common the two of them up, going to work or does it have to be a rocker switch?
I'd appreciate any advice as I want to make sure I do the job correctly and cut the pipe in the most optimum place.
Cheers all

[jet_noise]

The switch'll depend on the electrical spec. Current capability, latching/momentary, changeover or on/off, single or double pole.
Also how easy it is to physically replicate the fully open/closed short-burst workaround with a toggle.

[vxr2010]

most likely need a rocker switch so you have open close option , the switch itself has quite a few wires going to it , talking of funky switches i have a spitfire starter switch and flap mounted in a block of wood , looks very cool but probably won’t work in an r8 , i bought my switches on ebay , my experience of badlands valves was i ended up giving up in the end , i don’t think our uk weather helps the flaps kept getting stuck , i believe they need a bit of wd40 every so often to help reduce the risk of them sticking , air operated valves would work better i bought some on ebay but i already had the air supply on the ute as it’s an hsv one i don’t know if the supply is there in a standard car , i have seen air operated kits on ebay , i got the back boxes re made in stainless with smaller silencers , the least path of resistance with the straightest line will generate the most noise , so i got both the flaps welded in on each side on the noisiest pipe , re wired the supply to the air actuators at the back of the car and put a switch at the back of the console , i still have the standard headers and cat back section but i got the silencers deleted in the cat back section , and as above changed the back boxes , have you also considered the walkinshaw route , it depends on how noisy you want to go plus how much you are willing to pay

[vxr2010]

i don’t know if this will work

[vxr2010]

the sound does not seem to work ? , if you pm i can send you the clip

[99PBATR]

Cheers guys for the info. My car is garaged and really only comes out when the weather is good, so never ever sees any bad weather as its a fair weather car in reality, so sticking valves might not be so much of an issue. The switch I figured might need to be rocker/centre biased retractive, based on what I read on the Badlanz website, which is a pain, as I was hoping to use a really natty fighter pilot type switch

[SturdyHSV]

99PBATR said:

Cheers guys for the info. My car is garaged and really only comes out when the weather is good, so never ever sees any bad weather as its a fair weather car in reality, so sticking valves might not be so much of an issue. The switch I figured might need to be rocker/centre biased retractive, based on what I read on the Badlanz website, which is a pain, as I was hoping to use a really natty fighter pilot type switch

Don't give up, it's only electronics, there'll be a way

If a bit hands on you could try making something with an Arduino board or similar, it's overkill but it would do the job and allow you to take a latched switch input and have it do whatever you wanted. I'm sure there's a simple electrical circuit that could do it but I have absolutely no skills with circuit design

Alternatively, the fighter pilot switch proctector thingy is just a cover that goes around the switch housing. If you bought a toggle switch like this:

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/910...

Then just put the cover over it, you'd still need to lift the cover to operate the switch, albeit you would hold the switch to open / close the valves, as opposed to flip the cover and latch the switch one way or the other.

[99PBATR]

Nice one. I did have a look at those switches. The two way fighter pilot type are in effect a two way on/off type switch that flips the switch on when you flip the cover up and leaves it in the off position when flipped back down. I will see if there are any covers for those types of switches

[a11y_m]

I can't help regarding switches/wiring as my cutouts work from a basic 2-button wireless remote - I've got mine in the cubbyhole under the flap next to the handbrake, secured by velcro so I can operate the valves from outside the car if I want to show off...

But location for the valves - this is where I put mine on my small boot VXR. Standard headers/cats, mid-box delete with H-pipe, then standard rear boxes (with new tailpipes). I fitted my cutouts immediately before the rear axle, before the pipes turn outwards away from the centreline. There's nice recesses under there to mount them with the motors tucked up higher than the exhaust, in the hope it'll prolong the life of them (mine gets used in all conditions). Apologies not the neatest install as I fitted them myself in the drive on ramps when it was -3degC, using clamps rather than welding in (cos I cannae weld). Great having two volumes - mild and loud - rather than loud all the time. Well, at least until one of them inevitably jams open...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/R5WjHbVXSnxqpiuJ6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DxVhFBNGMPDtpN8F7

And a little vid showing my remote: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TNuVWoiBeKsDpxfv9 - I agree a toggle switch would be MUCH cooler, but mine is a cheap setup compared to QTP or Badlandz cutouts.

[dan mugglestone]

a11y_m said:

I can't help regarding switches/wiring as my cutouts work from a basic 2-button wireless remote - I've got mine in the cubbyhole under the flap next to the handbrake, secured by velcro so I can operate the valves from outside the car if I want to show off...

But location for the valves - this is where I put mine on my small boot VXR. Standard headers/cats, mid-box delete with H-pipe, then standard rear boxes (with new tailpipes). I fitted my cutouts immediately before the rear axle, before the pipes turn outwards away from the centreline. There's nice recesses under there to mount them with the motors tucked up higher than the exhaust, in the hope it'll prolong the life of them (mine gets used in all conditions). Apologies not the neatest install as I fitted them myself in the drive on ramps when it was -3degC, using clamps rather than welding in (cos I cannae weld). Great having two volumes - mild and loud - rather than loud all the time. Well, at least until one of them inevitably jams open...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/R5WjHbVXSnxqpiuJ6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DxVhFBNGMPDtpN8F7

And a little vid showing my remote: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TNuVWoiBeKsDpxfv9 - I agree a toggle switch would be MUCH cooler, but mine is a cheap setup compared to QTP or Badlandz cutouts.

where did you get the valves and remote from ??

[a11y_m]

dan mugglestone said:

where did you get the valves and remote from ??

eBay, from a UK seller though: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254807329964. Quite a bit more than I paid, plus the pics have been updated and remote looks different, but that's what I bought.

Good discussion on the VXR8/Monaro Facebook group on these - seems that both the expensive and cheap cutouts can have reliability issues, so I thought I'd try the cheap ones first. Worst case they fail and I can replace the motors/flap part with better ones.