Show me your line locker activation and release controls
Discussion
S800VXR said:
Are people really fitting those nasty missle launch switches to these cars....!
The yanks have a good phrase for this sort of thing if you want to have a go, they refer to it as 'FPFQ'It means 'Falling price, falling quality'.
Basically, as they get cheaper, scum like Emma and I (sorry Emma) get hold of these cars, and do abominable things to them like fit toggle switches
On LS1GTO, anyone that isn't building a drag car with massive radials or at the very least following in some sort of good ol' US of A 60s muscle car rule book is branded with the FPFQ label and the rednecks come out of the woodwork and start suggesting the person gets an 'import', and words like ricer and such are unleashed.
Fortunately there's not too much of that here
EmmaJ said:
ringram said:
After much debate and discussion at the Big Meet Trevor provided the best approach which we all agreed with.
Rather than locking out the front brakes with pressure in the lines the suggestion was to lock out the rear brakes with no pressure in them.
So just flip the switch to lock out the rear, apply the brake for the fronts only and spin up the rears, this then allows you to modulate the front brake application in order to provide a moving display of joy.
Forget any arming etc, just a simple on off to lock out the rears with suitable safety switch/cover etc.
That is the optimal config IMO which was debated at length amongst the smoke clouds.
OK, happy to benefit from your collective experience Rather than locking out the front brakes with pressure in the lines the suggestion was to lock out the rear brakes with no pressure in them.
So just flip the switch to lock out the rear, apply the brake for the fronts only and spin up the rears, this then allows you to modulate the front brake application in order to provide a moving display of joy.
Forget any arming etc, just a simple on off to lock out the rears with suitable safety switch/cover etc.
That is the optimal config IMO which was debated at length amongst the smoke clouds.
So basically forget the momentary press switch and have the missile switch arm and lock out the rear callipers. After which the degree to which the brake pedal is pressed will either allow a static or mobile display by either locking the front callipers on or let it roll?
MyM8V8 said:
EmmaJ said:
ringram said:
After much debate and discussion at the Big Meet Trevor provided the best approach which we all agreed with.
Rather than locking out the front brakes with pressure in the lines the suggestion was to lock out the rear brakes with no pressure in them.
So just flip the switch to lock out the rear, apply the brake for the fronts only and spin up the rears, this then allows you to modulate the front brake application in order to provide a moving display of joy.
Forget any arming etc, just a simple on off to lock out the rears with suitable safety switch/cover etc.
That is the optimal config IMO which was debated at length amongst the smoke clouds.
OK, happy to benefit from your collective experience Rather than locking out the front brakes with pressure in the lines the suggestion was to lock out the rear brakes with no pressure in them.
So just flip the switch to lock out the rear, apply the brake for the fronts only and spin up the rears, this then allows you to modulate the front brake application in order to provide a moving display of joy.
Forget any arming etc, just a simple on off to lock out the rears with suitable safety switch/cover etc.
That is the optimal config IMO which was debated at length amongst the smoke clouds.
So basically forget the momentary press switch and have the missile switch arm and lock out the rear callipers. After which the degree to which the brake pedal is pressed will either allow a static or mobile display by either locking the front callipers on or let it roll?
Granby said:
I use one of these hand held push switches that plugs into a socket just below the acc socket in the center console, its only ever plugged in when i use the line lock so no way of accidently arming it by mistake , the switch isn't latching so has to be held down to keep activated, i've used it a few times and not had any problems with it
[IMG*]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/Granby/Monaro/20140715_154715_zpsz5ztxmq0.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG*]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/Granby/Monaro/20140715_154508_zpsbqmwsanv.jpg[/IMG]
That's a clever solution, I like it [IMG*]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/Granby/Monaro/20140715_154715_zpsz5ztxmq0.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG*]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/Granby/Monaro/20140715_154508_zpsbqmwsanv.jpg[/IMG]
Could alternatively have the switches like everyone else, but require a shorted mono jack in a socket like yours to allow the system to 'arm'.
EmmaJ said:
MyM8V8 said:
EmmaJ said:
ringram said:
After much debate and discussion at the Big Meet Trevor provided the best approach which we all agreed with.
Rather than locking out the front brakes with pressure in the lines the suggestion was to lock out the rear brakes with no pressure in them.
So just flip the switch to lock out the rear, apply the brake for the fronts only and spin up the rears, this then allows you to modulate the front brake application in order to provide a moving display of joy.
Forget any arming etc, just a simple on off to lock out the rears with suitable safety switch/cover etc.
That is the optimal config IMO which was debated at length amongst the smoke clouds.
OK, happy to benefit from your collective experience Rather than locking out the front brakes with pressure in the lines the suggestion was to lock out the rear brakes with no pressure in them.
So just flip the switch to lock out the rear, apply the brake for the fronts only and spin up the rears, this then allows you to modulate the front brake application in order to provide a moving display of joy.
Forget any arming etc, just a simple on off to lock out the rears with suitable safety switch/cover etc.
That is the optimal config IMO which was debated at length amongst the smoke clouds.
So basically forget the momentary press switch and have the missile switch arm and lock out the rear callipers. After which the degree to which the brake pedal is pressed will either allow a static or mobile display by either locking the front callipers on or let it roll?
mikeyb1987 said:
EmmaJ said:
Modded my accelerator pedal so it's MUCH easier to heel and toe now
Ooh, is there some info on how you've done this? Was it similar to Mik's method on his VXR8 (a pedal on top of the throttle pedal)?
It's not ideal at present as it's only secured with one nut and bolt but it works like a charm!
I only stacked up the accelerator and one of the other pedals as that's all the height I needed.
Next time we're at a meet together you're welcome to have a try.
gsd2000 said:
what have you done because I struggle
Are you guys trying to do it in the sort of, half on brake, half on throttle with your foot still in the normal position sort of 'heel and toe'? Or actually using your heel and your toe?I only ask as I know in cars where the pedals are closer together, you can effectively just slide your braking foot to the right slightly and have have your foot press the brakes whilst the other half blips. This is a very comfortable way of doing it, and works well at low speeds, but I don't like the idea of trusting my braking to having only the edge of my foot on the pedal!
I basically leave my foot on the brake in the normal position, and pivot on the ball of my foot, and use my heel to press the throttle as necessary. I always found the Monaro a reasonably comfortable car to do it in, and was surprised to hear others find it a bit awkward?
Would still be interested to hear what you've done though Emma of course
I can be really sad and go take pictures if you'd like G?
The hardest bit with the 'pivot' sort of technique is in slow driving conditions, assuming you're already braking gently and then it's time to downshift, pivoting your foot whilst maintaining consistent pressure on the brake pedal so as not to jolt your long suffering passenger around
It's utterly habitual now, but I can tell when I've not driven it much for a couple of weeks as it's not quite as smooth. After Le Mans it was seemless
I find when 'pressing on' it's actually much easier, as you're pressing the brake pedal down further so the throttle is in a position that it's much easier to give a big prod.
That's the issue. Pressing on and H&Ting is easier....
it's the normal driving where the gas pedal is too low and needs to be "raised" up. I've probably messed up H&T for track as the gas pedal will probably be too high now but I'd rather have something usable 95% of the time
Will take pictures tomorrow and post in a new thread....
it's the normal driving where the gas pedal is too low and needs to be "raised" up. I've probably messed up H&T for track as the gas pedal will probably be too high now but I'd rather have something usable 95% of the time
Will take pictures tomorrow and post in a new thread....
EmmaJ said:
It's not ideal at present as it's only secured with one nut and bolt but it works like a charm!
I only stacked up the accelerator and one of the other pedals as that's all the height I needed.
Next time we're at a meet together you're welcome to have a try.
stevieturbo said:
Why are people complication things with multiple switches ?
Simple momentary switch to lock. Job done.
There can be no accidental activation....just dont press the button lol
Because you need both hands for steering and shifting gears during burn out.Simple momentary switch to lock. Job done.
There can be no accidental activation....just dont press the button lol
Also no brake damage because the line lock percents application.
You guys need to go too the big meet to understand that's required. Static single gear burnouts are for ricer phukers
ringram said:
Because you need both hands for steering and shifting gears during burn out.
Also no brake damage because the line lock percents application.
You guys need to go too the big meet to understand that's required. Static single gear burnouts are for ricer phukers
Where's G with the video demonstrations?Also no brake damage because the line lock percents application.
You guys need to go too the big meet to understand that's required. Static single gear burnouts are for ricer phukers
(PS the only burnout Rich did was in the bog the day after much chilli pepper pizza eating )
Edited by MyM8V8 on Tuesday 15th July 22:59
MyM8V8 said:
ringram said:
Because you need both hands for steering and shifting gears during burn out.
Also no brake damage because the line lock percents application.
You guys need to go too the big meet to understand that's required. Static single gear burnouts are for ricer phukers
Where's G with the video demonstrations?Also no brake damage because the line lock percents application.
You guys need to go too the big meet to understand that's required. Static single gear burnouts are for ricer phukers
(PS the only burnout Rich did was in the bog the day after much chilli pepper pizza eating )
Edited by MyM8V8 on Tuesday 15th July 22:59
ringram said:
Because you need both hands for steering and shifting gears during burn out.
Also no brake damage because the line lock percents application.
You guys need to go too the big meet to understand that's required. Static single gear burnouts are for ricer phukers
Cant see why you'd ever want to change gear during a burnout ?Also no brake damage because the line lock percents application.
You guys need to go too the big meet to understand that's required. Static single gear burnouts are for ricer phukers
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