Not quite HSV - VT Commodore
Discussion
entwistlecymru said:
Thanks motomk 
The brakes are branded HSV but appear to be made by Harrop..... is that likely?
My clocks arrived from fuscars in Oz today so I’ll be fitting them tomorrow night, and as long as they work properly I can book it for an MOT....
Speaking of clocks, does anyone have experience of programming them? It looks like it’s just calibrating the speedo to account for a change in diff ratio. It seems a snap on Solus will do it....
Brakes sound correct, probably added later from a HSV VTII GTS/GTSR sent over to the UK. The brakes are branded HSV but appear to be made by Harrop..... is that likely?
My clocks arrived from fuscars in Oz today so I’ll be fitting them tomorrow night, and as long as they work properly I can book it for an MOT....
Speaking of clocks, does anyone have experience of programming them? It looks like it’s just calibrating the speedo to account for a change in diff ratio. It seems a snap on Solus will do it....
Edited by entwistlecymru on Tuesday 25th February 19:46
Programming the dials is possible using just the dials but it is better to do it in the computer as vxr2010 has mentioned.
So I've fitted the clocks and its all working as it should. I dropped the oil last night, thankfully - it was absolutely horrible! I've chucked some cheap 5W30 in to flush it out along with a new filter and will dump it again after its MOT.
I left it running outside this afternoon for 15 minutes or so and it got quite hot. Having drained the coolant when I pulled the front end off I'm hoping it was just a small airlock - I've bled it again so will run it up to temperature tomorrow and see what happens.
Hopefully I'll get it booked in for test this week and I can drive it for the first time! Once its tested I'll get it nice and warm, get it in the air and drain the engine, gearbox and diff and replace the brake fluid too.
I left it running outside this afternoon for 15 minutes or so and it got quite hot. Having drained the coolant when I pulled the front end off I'm hoping it was just a small airlock - I've bled it again so will run it up to temperature tomorrow and see what happens.
Hopefully I'll get it booked in for test this week and I can drive it for the first time! Once its tested I'll get it nice and warm, get it in the air and drain the engine, gearbox and diff and replace the brake fluid too.
10w40 should be fine.
I did run 15w40 but ended up with a check engine light on and failed o2 sensor. My local sparky in Oz, Holden nut, asked straight away what oil I used and that 15w40 was too thick. This is on an LS1 with 80000miles.
I like Castrol oils used them for years changed ever 3000-3500miles
https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/castrol-magnatec...
I did run 15w40 but ended up with a check engine light on and failed o2 sensor. My local sparky in Oz, Holden nut, asked straight away what oil I used and that 15w40 was too thick. This is on an LS1 with 80000miles.
I like Castrol oils used them for years changed ever 3000-3500miles
https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/castrol-magnatec...
I own a motor factors so won’t be bothering with that lot 
All MOT work completed tonight ready for test this week....... that won’t be happening now!
I took it for its first drive in 10 years (my first drive in it) anyway, just to check it over - here are my initial findings....
It’s got an awful misfire at anything above tickover so I think the plugs need doing.
The S/S exhaust sounds fantastic - burbly and fairly quiet up to 3k, sounds like a proper muscle car above that.
The Harrop brakes are fantastic. Nice and progressive with more than enough power.
The Koni shocks and standard springs feel spot on for UK roads. Steering is a lot sharper than I thought it would be - possibly had a quicker rack fitted?
The short drive went well until I reversed it in to my unit....... hmmmm, why won’t you go into reverse..... the clutch pedal shouldn’t be that low, let’s check the fluid.... nothing.... look underneath....
drip, drip, drip. Looks like a new clutch and hydraulics are on the cards.
I’m guessing Rockauto are the best bet? I’m not in a rush any more!
I took it for its first drive in 10 years (my first drive in it) anyway, just to check it over - here are my initial findings....
It’s got an awful misfire at anything above tickover so I think the plugs need doing.
The S/S exhaust sounds fantastic - burbly and fairly quiet up to 3k, sounds like a proper muscle car above that.
The Harrop brakes are fantastic. Nice and progressive with more than enough power.
The Koni shocks and standard springs feel spot on for UK roads. Steering is a lot sharper than I thought it would be - possibly had a quicker rack fitted?
The short drive went well until I reversed it in to my unit....... hmmmm, why won’t you go into reverse..... the clutch pedal shouldn’t be that low, let’s check the fluid.... nothing.... look underneath....
drip, drip, drip. Looks like a new clutch and hydraulics are on the cards. I’m guessing Rockauto are the best bet? I’m not in a rush any more!
Rock Auto is great for the clutch kit. There's a few options, I went for the LUK. The kit including flyweel was something like £177, plus shipping of course. I also went for the LUK slave cylinder which was a mistake because, at least at that time, the release bearing was not included and I had to buy it separately. Also got the rear main seal kit from Rock Auto, the Felpro one.
I went a bit mad and also bought the alignit tool from Sac City Corvette for the rear main seal. First time i'd done the job and wanted to give the car every chance of being oiltight when I'd finished!
I went a bit mad and also bought the alignit tool from Sac City Corvette for the rear main seal. First time i'd done the job and wanted to give the car every chance of being oiltight when I'd finished!
Thanks lincsls1. Looks as though rockauto win again. I really can’t believe how cheap these vehicles are to run! I’ll be ordering an LS7 3 piece kit, spigot bearing, flywheel and rear crank seal as well as new gasket for the LS6 manifold.
A few questions for the learned before I buy....
1: will I need an LS1 or LS7 slave cylinder?
2: there seem to be a lot of posts about the LS7 unit not disengaging.... is this just down to shims behind the slave as suggested by most?
3: is there anything else worth changing while I’m underneath?
A few questions for the learned before I buy....
1: will I need an LS1 or LS7 slave cylinder?
2: there seem to be a lot of posts about the LS7 unit not disengaging.... is this just down to shims behind the slave as suggested by most?
3: is there anything else worth changing while I’m underneath?
entwistlecymru said:
Thanks lincsls1. Looks as though rockauto win again. I really can’t believe how cheap these vehicles are to run! I’ll be ordering an LS7 3 piece kit, spigot bearing, flywheel and rear crank seal as well as new gasket for the LS6 manifold.
A few questions for the learned before I buy....
1: will I need an LS1 or LS7 slave cylinder?
2: there seem to be a lot of posts about the LS7 unit not disengaging.... is this just down to shims behind the slave as suggested by most?
3: is there anything else worth changing while I’m underneath?
I think the LS1/LS2 slave cylinder is req'd - LUK LSC384. Make sure it comes with a release bearing or order one. Please check this info though.A few questions for the learned before I buy....
1: will I need an LS1 or LS7 slave cylinder?
2: there seem to be a lot of posts about the LS7 unit not disengaging.... is this just down to shims behind the slave as suggested by most?
3: is there anything else worth changing while I’m underneath?
Don't know anything about the disengaging issue can't help there.
Whilst under there you could replace the gearbox mounting and also fit a remote bleed line.
I'd also check the prop shaft centre bearing and also consider checking the rear drive shafts for play. Replace with Pedders shafts if they are bad.
entwistlecymru said:
Cool cool, I’ll check about the bearing. I got it up on my ramp just before the clutch failed and changed the gearbox and diff oils so it’s had a good checkup in the process. For c.150k miles it’s held up really well.
Yeah, I think they are pretty solid motors really. I had my door card off yesterday to change the speaker grille that is fixed to it (a previous owner managed to damage it). I'm impressed by how the card is pretty much all screwed on as apposed to using plastic clips that can break or even worse the card breaks! It came off methodically and nothing broke after 16 years. It was easy!Right I have a list of bits in my basket with Rockauto, about to press the button..... LUK LSC384 slave cylinder, LUK 04905 clutch and flywheel kit, Timken100085 rear crank seal.......Am I missing anything obvious as far as my clutch swap goes? (bleed hose not available from them!)
As far as the inlet manifold gasket swap goes, I've got new gaskets and an oil pressure switch included - anything else worth changing while I'm in there too?
As far as the inlet manifold gasket swap goes, I've got new gaskets and an oil pressure switch included - anything else worth changing while I'm in there too?
Ah - weird car to end up on the other side of the world with a story to match!
The Executive V8 was known as the poor mans SS - with the FE2 suspension and diff, it basically became the SS without the trim. Bit of a sleeper, considering you couldn't tell it apart from your local sales rep!
The Executive V8 was known as the poor mans SS - with the FE2 suspension and diff, it basically became the SS without the trim. Bit of a sleeper, considering you couldn't tell it apart from your local sales rep!
Bit tragically late to this party as missed the original posts, but great to see another turbo conversion. My Monaro LS2 is twin turbo, running relatively conservative boost, and is believed to be somewhere in the order of 700bhp without going mad with it. Its adjustable, so can be cranked up at a later date if I fancy blowing it to bits, or more usefully, find some more fundage to drop some forged bits in. It has an uprated cam to make best use of the boost, full TT kit, from manifolds back using custon Wortec 3"exhaust system. The intercooler is simply massive on it and temps don't rise at all. Clutch is an ACT twin plate ,some don't get on with them, some do, I find it fine. Other than a long term niggle with the oil scavenge pump for the turbos, which appears to now be resolved, no issues at all. Neil @ NWJ Autocare has been looking after it of late.
One other consideration other than engine in all of this when running those sort of numbers is the gearbox, never renowned for being amazing, could cause some issues if you were to drive it hard.
Like you plan to, mine has a relatively easy life, gets driven gently except when some uber saloon/sports car/mid level supercar poser is showing off and needs putting in their place
One other consideration other than engine in all of this when running those sort of numbers is the gearbox, never renowned for being amazing, could cause some issues if you were to drive it hard.
Like you plan to, mine has a relatively easy life, gets driven gently except when some uber saloon/sports car/mid level supercar poser is showing off and needs putting in their place
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