Null's ultimate Dream Car Thread - A CV8 Monaro in Austria
Discussion
Time for a little update 
I have not even racked up 100 kms of driving so far this year, but the mediocre spring weather we had allowed me to spend some time working on the car.
As many of you have already experienced for themselves, the OEM bonnet struts get weaker and weaker with time,
up to the point where they have difficulties keeping the heavy bonnet up.
After the bonnet slammed on my head while i re-installed the battery after the winter, I knew it was time to swap them out.
Fortunately, FEBI Bilstein part #27627 for Opel Omega is readily available and works as a direct hassle-free replacement of the Monaro's OEM struts.
Notice how the replacement has the compression chamber and the rod flipped 180 degrees. Still, it is a perfect fit.
Lift force on these new struts is very strong, the hood now opens up with minimal effort, almost by itself so to speak!
What a great feeling, not having to worry about the bonnet slamming onto my head any more
While I was in there, i removed the complete airbox assembly and treated it to a thorough clean an a new K&N drop-in filter.
Correct K&N part number for the Monaro is: K&N 33-2116
Lastly, I always wondered if the UK supplied Monaros have the so called "tow brace" or "V-bracket" attached below the spare tire well from the factory.
I never found a definitive answer, so I decided to have a look for myself. And sure enough, there it was, hidden behind the rear underbody aero panel!
The exact purpose of this piece is unknown to me.
While there are some aftermarket solutions out there that do allow you to mount a tow bar to this piece (who the f
k tows with their Monaro btw???),
my theory is that this bracket's intended purpose might have been to serve as a tie-down point for shipping,
with the Monaros (as most Holden vehicles) not having any factory towing points that they could have used to secure the car on the ship.
Other theories I have read out there include the possibility of the bracket being either
- a frequency isolator (must be the heaviest one ever mounted to any car, those are usually much smaller and lighter)
- a ballast to improve weight distribution (somewhat plausible at least with the heavy engine and gearbox in front)
- a chassis brace (it does not connect anything to anything, so this claim can definitely be dismissed).
Whatever, since my car won't get shipped anywhere ever again, I consider it nothing more than dead weight, so it needed to go.
Had to fabricate some plastic washers to mount the aero panel back in place.
This is what 12 kgs of unnecessary weight removed from the car look like.
I have not even racked up 100 kms of driving so far this year, but the mediocre spring weather we had allowed me to spend some time working on the car.
As many of you have already experienced for themselves, the OEM bonnet struts get weaker and weaker with time,
up to the point where they have difficulties keeping the heavy bonnet up.
After the bonnet slammed on my head while i re-installed the battery after the winter, I knew it was time to swap them out.
Fortunately, FEBI Bilstein part #27627 for Opel Omega is readily available and works as a direct hassle-free replacement of the Monaro's OEM struts.
Notice how the replacement has the compression chamber and the rod flipped 180 degrees. Still, it is a perfect fit.
Lift force on these new struts is very strong, the hood now opens up with minimal effort, almost by itself so to speak!
What a great feeling, not having to worry about the bonnet slamming onto my head any more
While I was in there, i removed the complete airbox assembly and treated it to a thorough clean an a new K&N drop-in filter.
Correct K&N part number for the Monaro is: K&N 33-2116
Lastly, I always wondered if the UK supplied Monaros have the so called "tow brace" or "V-bracket" attached below the spare tire well from the factory.
I never found a definitive answer, so I decided to have a look for myself. And sure enough, there it was, hidden behind the rear underbody aero panel!
The exact purpose of this piece is unknown to me.
While there are some aftermarket solutions out there that do allow you to mount a tow bar to this piece (who the f
k tows with their Monaro btw???),my theory is that this bracket's intended purpose might have been to serve as a tie-down point for shipping,
with the Monaros (as most Holden vehicles) not having any factory towing points that they could have used to secure the car on the ship.
Other theories I have read out there include the possibility of the bracket being either
- a frequency isolator (must be the heaviest one ever mounted to any car, those are usually much smaller and lighter)
- a ballast to improve weight distribution (somewhat plausible at least with the heavy engine and gearbox in front)
- a chassis brace (it does not connect anything to anything, so this claim can definitely be dismissed).
Whatever, since my car won't get shipped anywhere ever again, I consider it nothing more than dead weight, so it needed to go.
Had to fabricate some plastic washers to mount the aero panel back in place.
This is what 12 kgs of unnecessary weight removed from the car look like.
L2VXR said:
I recall monkfish telling me there would have been a tie down hook bolted to the floor just infront of this bracket that would have been removed
on pdi at the dealer then the flap in the plastic closed. (Mine had been left open and monkfish told me they closed the flap when they had it for service).
The heavy bracket in my opinion is there to transfer the force from a rear end impact into the diff/rear subframe and away from the fuel tank in the boot.
The fuel tank has another heavy frame bolted around it also. Probably to satisfy usa crash tests .
This is very interesting input! Sounds like the most plausible theory so far. on pdi at the dealer then the flap in the plastic closed. (Mine had been left open and monkfish told me they closed the flap when they had it for service).
The heavy bracket in my opinion is there to transfer the force from a rear end impact into the diff/rear subframe and away from the fuel tank in the boot.
The fuel tank has another heavy frame bolted around it also. Probably to satisfy usa crash tests .
There are additional threaded studs in front of the V-brace where something like a tie down hook for shipping could bolt onto.
The V-brace would definitely add some rigidity to the spare tire well area in the event of a rear end collision.
A very crude solution, but the rear end sheet metal definitely would not crumple up as easily with the V-brace installed.
There is a very sturdy-looking brace mounted in front of the the fuel tank area. Disclaimer, this is not my pic, just the best i could find.
The way it is bolted to the car, it appears to have some structural benefits as well. Much more structural than the V-brace at least.
I will pull the trunk liner and have a look at this piece myself once I have the time to, and then decide what to do with it.
The "flap" was also open on my car. Nobody bothered to close it in the past 16 years, until I came along
TheWidget said:
Interesting about that hunk of metal. Interested in having mine removed before getting having underseal applied over the summer.
Roughly what dimensions do those plastic washers need to be?
The 4 plastic washers you have to fabricate need to be around 2 inches / 5 cm in diameter. M12-Sized hole in the middle (if i remember correctly). Roughly what dimensions do those plastic washers need to be?
You could likely go out and get something similar at any hardware store though if you want to save some time.
I went on quite the shopping spree over the past winter, and the Monaro has finally spent a couple of days with my trusted garage to get the parts installed.
As I am getting more and more comfortable to push the car closer to it's limits, I felt like a brake upgrade was needed.
Also, I figured it would be best to order suspension bushings while they are still available,
for added peace of mind and to pick up some driving and handling improvements along the way.
General maintenance:
AC Delco Oil Filter (GM19210283)
Shell Helix Ultra 10w60 oil
GATES 6PK1965 serpentine belt and AC belt
Brankes:
EBC Bluestuff pads (front / part # DP51162NDX)
Pedders SportsRyder Kevlar Ceramic Pads (rear / part # 6720895)
EBC Turbo Groove Discs (rear / part # GD7301) (car already has upgraded DBA front discs)
AP Racing DOT 4 brake fluid
Chassis:
Whiteline Front lower control arms (WA130AR / WA130A)
Whiteline Front Anti-Roll bar link upper bushing (W22921)
Whiteline Front Anti-Roll bar mount bushing (W22327G)
Pedders Tie Rod Ends (PTE3049)
The whole front subframe was dropped, the surface rust removed / treated and a fresh coat of paint applied.
We will tackle the rear subframe, diff bushing and all the rear suspension and stabilizer bushes at a later point, parts are already ordered.
I already have a Mishimoto radiator and silicone hoses to go onto the car when we engine gets a major service (probably in 2022 or 2023).
As I am getting more and more comfortable to push the car closer to it's limits, I felt like a brake upgrade was needed.
Also, I figured it would be best to order suspension bushings while they are still available,
for added peace of mind and to pick up some driving and handling improvements along the way.
General maintenance:
AC Delco Oil Filter (GM19210283)
Shell Helix Ultra 10w60 oil
GATES 6PK1965 serpentine belt and AC belt
Brankes:
EBC Bluestuff pads (front / part # DP51162NDX)
Pedders SportsRyder Kevlar Ceramic Pads (rear / part # 6720895)
EBC Turbo Groove Discs (rear / part # GD7301) (car already has upgraded DBA front discs)
AP Racing DOT 4 brake fluid
Chassis:
Whiteline Front lower control arms (WA130AR / WA130A)
Whiteline Front Anti-Roll bar link upper bushing (W22921)
Whiteline Front Anti-Roll bar mount bushing (W22327G)
Pedders Tie Rod Ends (PTE3049)
The whole front subframe was dropped, the surface rust removed / treated and a fresh coat of paint applied.
We will tackle the rear subframe, diff bushing and all the rear suspension and stabilizer bushes at a later point, parts are already ordered.
I already have a Mishimoto radiator and silicone hoses to go onto the car when we engine gets a major service (probably in 2022 or 2023).
stu vxr said:
Just a thought I definitely wouldn't be putting in a 10-60 oil think the viscosity maybe a bit to much for the bearing clearances, am sure someone more qualified than me will be along soon to back up my concern.
Appreciate your concern. I was a bit sceptical at first as well, since it is not recommended from the factory. But have had a long chat with the guys at the garage and they run 10w60 on all their LS engines for years now.
They swap LS engines into Jeeps for heavy offroad use, tracks builds, street driven restomods etc and certainly know them like the back of their hand.
Lincsls1 said:
Glad I'm not the only one over spending on their Monaro!
I've recently renewed the entire front suspension over the last few weeks including the same Whiteline arms you've chosen.
Got a new Pedders quickrack, rack bush and rack ends being fitted next weekend at AAS, so that really will finish the front.
And like you I'll move to the rear later on, but even with what I've already done the car was feeling nice and tight.
Nice work comrade
Thank you sir! Your Monaro must be one of the best examples still in existence! I've recently renewed the entire front suspension over the last few weeks including the same Whiteline arms you've chosen.
Got a new Pedders quickrack, rack bush and rack ends being fitted next weekend at AAS, so that really will finish the front.
And like you I'll move to the rear later on, but even with what I've already done the car was feeling nice and tight.
Nice work comrade
Overspending sounds a bit harsh, haha
I like to say that there is a vision / big picture behind everything that I do to my car
Haha yeah, when looking at this front suspension diagram for a Monaro there is little left that has not been swapped for aftermarket parts on my car
Parts from this picture that are not OEM any more:
Steering:
- Pedders #1203 quick ratio steering rack
- Pedders top mounts and bearings (5851 / 5030)
Front chassis and suspension:
- Pedders HD drop links (424209)
- Whiteline Front lower control arms (WA130AR / WA130A)
- Whiteline Front Anti-Roll bar link upper bushing (W22921)
- Whiteline Front Anti-Roll bar mount bushing (W22327G)
- Pedders Tie Rod Ends (PTE3049)
- Pedders Strut bar to chassis mount PU bush kit (EP9166)
After 300kms I can conclude that the mods definitely helped make the car even better.
Feeling and feedback is nice and tight and the brakes are a huuuge improvement too!
Recently did some minor cosmetic work:
Removed the two HSV fender badges that the first owner of the car installed more than a decade ago.
Thanks to Larry Kosilla's "hot water technique" and dental floss, the badges came off without too much effort and did not leave behind a sticky mess.
I lightly polished by hand to get a smooth finish.
On a side note, I now have two HSV badges for sale
Made a custom backing plate for the rear license plate with cutouts that go around all the weird "dimples" in the boot lid filler panel.
The backing plate mounts to the car with two screws that go into the provided holes and the plate is then velcro'ed on.
Now everything finally sits flush and no ugly plate holder frame is visible.
I know it is not exactly a work of art, but it gets the job done and should be a permanent solution
Removed the two HSV fender badges that the first owner of the car installed more than a decade ago.
Thanks to Larry Kosilla's "hot water technique" and dental floss, the badges came off without too much effort and did not leave behind a sticky mess.
I lightly polished by hand to get a smooth finish.
On a side note, I now have two HSV badges for sale
Made a custom backing plate for the rear license plate with cutouts that go around all the weird "dimples" in the boot lid filler panel.
The backing plate mounts to the car with two screws that go into the provided holes and the plate is then velcro'ed on.
Now everything finally sits flush and no ugly plate holder frame is visible.
I know it is not exactly a work of art, but it gets the job done and should be a permanent solution
Here is the first attempt at capturing my Monaro's stock LS1 exhaust sound out in the wild.
Since I only had limited time and I am not quite happy with the outcome, I will take another shot at this in the future.
I learned a lot from playing around this time, so the next video will be better, longer and cover more driving scenarios and environments.
But in the meantime, turn up the volume and enjoy
As you all know, my car is fully stock engine and exhaust-wise, other than the K&N drop in air filter.
I love a cammed and long tubed V8 as much as the next guy, but I have come to like the stock exhaust note a lot too, it is lovely for what I personally use my Monaro for.
I feel it fits it's grand touring character very nicely and you can drive it at any speed, in any scenario, for hours at a time without inconvenience or drone.
It sounds quite subtle and almost civilized around town so I can fly somewhat under the radar, but when you are on that twisty B road and you are able rev it out,
it gets progressively louder and V-Eight-ier as the revs climb.
Since I only had limited time and I am not quite happy with the outcome, I will take another shot at this in the future.
I learned a lot from playing around this time, so the next video will be better, longer and cover more driving scenarios and environments.
But in the meantime, turn up the volume and enjoy
As you all know, my car is fully stock engine and exhaust-wise, other than the K&N drop in air filter.
I love a cammed and long tubed V8 as much as the next guy, but I have come to like the stock exhaust note a lot too, it is lovely for what I personally use my Monaro for.
I feel it fits it's grand touring character very nicely and you can drive it at any speed, in any scenario, for hours at a time without inconvenience or drone.
It sounds quite subtle and almost civilized around town so I can fly somewhat under the radar, but when you are on that twisty B road and you are able rev it out,
it gets progressively louder and V-Eight-ier as the revs climb.
Sorry for not posting in a while, but "real life things" happened
I have found a significantly better job in a different State of Austria and jumped at the opportunity.
That job gives me possibilities I've never had before and if feels like the start a new and even better chapter in life.
Finding a new job far from "home" means me and my two cars had to move back in September this year.
We found a new home in the small town of Bad Schallerbach in the State of Upper Austria.
I have my two beloved cars in the garage now and commute by train - Yes, I am totally serious.
That means even more smiles per driven miles from now on, as both of my vehicles are now mostly for enjoyment.
Only downside to this is I can't keep my cool vanity plate, but maybe I'll get a new one if the future.
I took it to the local Nissan / Land Rover dealer for it's annual "§57 Überprüfung", where it turned a lot of heads!
The Monaro is in winter hibernation since last weekend and "SORNed" (i think that's what you call it in the UK?) until Spring.
We have covered a little more than 3000 kilometers / 1900 miles full of joy this year. I still love this car as much as ever!
I have since taken the first bunch of parts that will get a refresh over the winter out of the car, including the the rear seats, headrests, wiper arms, battery tray, skid plate.
I also plan on doing something to all the faded black exterior plastics and the headlights could also do with a bit of a polish.
There are a lot of things that I have planned for next year once spring is around. Will keep you posted.
I have found a significantly better job in a different State of Austria and jumped at the opportunity.
That job gives me possibilities I've never had before and if feels like the start a new and even better chapter in life.
Finding a new job far from "home" means me and my two cars had to move back in September this year.
We found a new home in the small town of Bad Schallerbach in the State of Upper Austria.
I have my two beloved cars in the garage now and commute by train - Yes, I am totally serious.
That means even more smiles per driven miles from now on, as both of my vehicles are now mostly for enjoyment.
Only downside to this is I can't keep my cool vanity plate, but maybe I'll get a new one if the future.
I took it to the local Nissan / Land Rover dealer for it's annual "§57 Überprüfung", where it turned a lot of heads!
The Monaro is in winter hibernation since last weekend and "SORNed" (i think that's what you call it in the UK?) until Spring.
We have covered a little more than 3000 kilometers / 1900 miles full of joy this year. I still love this car as much as ever!
I have since taken the first bunch of parts that will get a refresh over the winter out of the car, including the the rear seats, headrests, wiper arms, battery tray, skid plate.
I also plan on doing something to all the faded black exterior plastics and the headlights could also do with a bit of a polish.
There are a lot of things that I have planned for next year once spring is around. Will keep you posted.
TheWidget said:
Is your vanity plate restricted to living/working in a certain state of Austria?
Although, "grr, f** y**" is how I read the new plate and it works well enough!
Yes, that is unfortunately the case with all of our plates, be it vanity or regular. There are a whole bunch of regulations, I will try to explain them a bit. Although, "grr, f** y**" is how I read the new plate and it works well enough!
The first two letters designate the County that you live in. You must register your car in that County, you ain't got no choice.
The big cities only have one letter to designate them, like "W" for Wien/Vienna, "S" for Salzburg, "G" for Graz.
This is followed by the coat of arms of the respective State your County is situated in (again, you've got no choice).
The only part that you can choose (if you pay a substantial amount) is what comes after the County code and the coat of arms - Can be a maximum of 5 letters, minimum of 2, and must be followed by at least 1 number (which can't be a "0").
If you don't want to pay extra (like me), you will be issued a random combination of numbers and letters by your local DMV.
There are quite a few combinations of letters, numbers, letters+numbers that are banned, for example "SS" or "88" for obvious reasons...
With my new plates, GR designates the County of "Grieskirchen", followed by the coat of arms of the State of Upper Austria.
The "908 FU" bit is a random combination I was issued by the local DMV (I swear).
I was really surprised to find out that apparently "FU" is not a banned combination
Time for a little Spring update!
The car was off the road for almost six months during Winter.
I had high hopes, but it unfortunately this Spring was (yet again!) one of the wettest on record and I have not even driven 300 kilometers so far...
I have spent lots of time doing research over the winter and at the end of it, there was another big parts haul with the help of good old RockAuto.
It's mainly engine and drivetrain related maintenance items like:
GATES 34702 Thermostat Housing / Water Outlet
GATES 45002 Water Pump
GATES 38041 Idler Pulley
2x GATES 36220 Tensioner Pulley
GATES 38196 Belt Tensioner
2x GM GENUINE 15254700 Motor Mount
MACKAY T56 Gearbox Mount
DORMAN 934670 (934-670) Drive Shaft Center Support / Bearing
I also still have the rear suspension bushes yet to overhaul, a Mishimoto radiator and silicone hoses lying around.
These parts will likely keep collecting dust in the garage for a bit, because sometimes things just don't go as planned
I am still busy setting up my new apartment, and making my own furniture together with my dad. I am dedicated to making this place feel nice and welcoming, like a real home.
Adding to that, my daily driver (a 2006 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66) developed a significant power loss which was tracked down to a turbo on it's way out!
We caught it in time and decided to replace it straight away before it could possibly grenade itself and take the glorious 5 cylinder petrol engine with it.
That happened just a few weeks after i decided to treat the car to a brand new clutch...
Well, that's the story of how I dumped more than 5k € into the daily driver within a few weeks
Here is a quick cellphone picture of the daily driver on the first spirited winter drive with a new turbo and clutch:
Back to the Holden - I did get a hold of some small random bits and bobs like a new dipstick and oil filler cap, a PCV hose that started to crack, trunk lift supports and new black wheel nuts, all of which are already on the car.
Since the front (yes, the front) Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tires were very worn on the inside edges, I had to replace them after less than 10k kilometers of spirited driving and followed up with a new alignment.
Let's hope the new front tires will last much longer!
On a very positive side note, on one of the few nice and warm Spring days so far, I visited the Season Opening event of the biggest American Car Club in Austria
for some much needed time with like-minded petrol heads. I love hearing other peoples stories of how they got their dream car and seeing their builds.
The car was off the road for almost six months during Winter.
I had high hopes, but it unfortunately this Spring was (yet again!) one of the wettest on record and I have not even driven 300 kilometers so far...
I have spent lots of time doing research over the winter and at the end of it, there was another big parts haul with the help of good old RockAuto.
It's mainly engine and drivetrain related maintenance items like:
GATES 34702 Thermostat Housing / Water Outlet
GATES 45002 Water Pump
GATES 38041 Idler Pulley
2x GATES 36220 Tensioner Pulley
GATES 38196 Belt Tensioner
2x GM GENUINE 15254700 Motor Mount
MACKAY T56 Gearbox Mount
DORMAN 934670 (934-670) Drive Shaft Center Support / Bearing
I also still have the rear suspension bushes yet to overhaul, a Mishimoto radiator and silicone hoses lying around.
These parts will likely keep collecting dust in the garage for a bit, because sometimes things just don't go as planned
I am still busy setting up my new apartment, and making my own furniture together with my dad. I am dedicated to making this place feel nice and welcoming, like a real home.
Adding to that, my daily driver (a 2006 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66) developed a significant power loss which was tracked down to a turbo on it's way out!
We caught it in time and decided to replace it straight away before it could possibly grenade itself and take the glorious 5 cylinder petrol engine with it.
That happened just a few weeks after i decided to treat the car to a brand new clutch...
Well, that's the story of how I dumped more than 5k € into the daily driver within a few weeks
Here is a quick cellphone picture of the daily driver on the first spirited winter drive with a new turbo and clutch:
Back to the Holden - I did get a hold of some small random bits and bobs like a new dipstick and oil filler cap, a PCV hose that started to crack, trunk lift supports and new black wheel nuts, all of which are already on the car.
Since the front (yes, the front) Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tires were very worn on the inside edges, I had to replace them after less than 10k kilometers of spirited driving and followed up with a new alignment.
Let's hope the new front tires will last much longer!
On a very positive side note, on one of the few nice and warm Spring days so far, I visited the Season Opening event of the biggest American Car Club in Austria
for some much needed time with like-minded petrol heads. I love hearing other peoples stories of how they got their dream car and seeing their builds.
Lincsls1 said:
Good to hear you and the car are keeping well Null.
Sounds like you still love it and are looking after it real well!
I note the part number for the engine mounts are actually for a Corvette. They are also much cheaper.
I'm guessing you already know this though. What's the thought process here? They must be a little different?
Thank you Lin Sounds like you still love it and are looking after it real well!
I note the part number for the engine mounts are actually for a Corvette. They are also much cheaper.
I'm guessing you already know this though. What's the thought process here? They must be a little different?
The Corvette engine mounts appear to be identical to the LS1 GTO mounts in every dimension, so I am confident they will fit. We will see.
The good thing is the car thankfully does not "need" any of those upgrades as we speak.
So if something won't fit, it is just a minor annoyance, knowing I can just put the old part back in and look for a different upgrade.
Of course, I still love the Monaro and don't ever want to get rid of it!!
I figured a long time ago that it is best to tackle small things step by step before they become big issues.
Everything that I've done to the car in my three years of ownership has improved the overall experience little by little, and the list of other things that I want to upgrade / improve is still preeeeetty long.
There is a whole lot of cosmetic stuff to do, but that is not a big priority before I am done future-proofing the engine, drivetrain and suspension.
How are things going with your VXR?
Hello, it's-a me Null with a late summer update.
Summer hat lots of great summer weather in store this year, perfect for many adventures with and without the car.
Here is a pic of the Monaro at recent a local classic car and sports car meet:
End of May, two mates in their project cars, a 1995 Mercedes-Benz W202 C280 Elegance and a VW Golf MK 2, joined me on a roadtrip to "Pfingsttreffen Schloss Ebenzweier", Austria's most diverse car meet near the shores of beautiful Lake Traunsee.
There were more than 300 cars, ranging from the 1910s to the latest supercars, present, my absolute favorites were this insane Renault 5 Maxi Turbo tribute car, a 1968 Dodge Charger and a fabulous late 1920s Buick.
In July, I took the daily driver Volvo V50 T5 AWD on a 3000 kilometer roadtrip to southern France, destination Gorges du Verdon National Park - sometimes jokingly referred to as "Europe's Grand Canyon".
Well I can tell you one thing - I have been to Grand Canyon twice and Gorges du Verdon beats it. This truly is the most beautiful place I have ever been to!
I am definitely coming back next year. Probably a little earlier as it is super hot there in July and August. The roads in France were in surprisingly good condition even in remote areas, so I am thinking about doing this trip with the Monaro next time, that would be amazing.
Summer hat lots of great summer weather in store this year, perfect for many adventures with and without the car.
Here is a pic of the Monaro at recent a local classic car and sports car meet:
End of May, two mates in their project cars, a 1995 Mercedes-Benz W202 C280 Elegance and a VW Golf MK 2, joined me on a roadtrip to "Pfingsttreffen Schloss Ebenzweier", Austria's most diverse car meet near the shores of beautiful Lake Traunsee.
There were more than 300 cars, ranging from the 1910s to the latest supercars, present, my absolute favorites were this insane Renault 5 Maxi Turbo tribute car, a 1968 Dodge Charger and a fabulous late 1920s Buick.
In July, I took the daily driver Volvo V50 T5 AWD on a 3000 kilometer roadtrip to southern France, destination Gorges du Verdon National Park - sometimes jokingly referred to as "Europe's Grand Canyon".
Well I can tell you one thing - I have been to Grand Canyon twice and Gorges du Verdon beats it. This truly is the most beautiful place I have ever been to!
I am definitely coming back next year. Probably a little earlier as it is super hot there in July and August. The roads in France were in surprisingly good condition even in remote areas, so I am thinking about doing this trip with the Monaro next time, that would be amazing.
A couple of days ago I had the dreaded trunk release mechanism break on me.
I have previously read horror stories of people having to drill through the license plate filler panel to break the lock open, thankfully my emergency release behind the driver's side rear headrest still worked.
This tiny piece of rubber coated metal wire is all that pulls your Monaro's trunk latch open... what a pathetic piece of cost cutting bullsttery!!!
There was no way I was gonna spend any money on a genuine spare part, as that would inevitably fail again in the future.
After a couple of failed attempts with a clothes hanger and a bicycle brake line, I managed to repair the mechanism with good old cable ties.
You can remove the actuator mechanism and the lock, but in the end you need to mount everything back up to get the length and tension
of the cable tie dialed in perfectly, in order for the mechanism to function properly again.
Tricky as there is barely any room to work and it was suuuper hot outside, so i was absolutely drenched in sweat.
Sorry for the crappy pictures, as i said it is very cramped in there. But maybe this can still be helpful to some of you in the future.
I have previously read horror stories of people having to drill through the license plate filler panel to break the lock open, thankfully my emergency release behind the driver's side rear headrest still worked.
This tiny piece of rubber coated metal wire is all that pulls your Monaro's trunk latch open... what a pathetic piece of cost cutting bulls
ttery!!! There was no way I was gonna spend any money on a genuine spare part, as that would inevitably fail again in the future.
After a couple of failed attempts with a clothes hanger and a bicycle brake line, I managed to repair the mechanism with good old cable ties.
You can remove the actuator mechanism and the lock, but in the end you need to mount everything back up to get the length and tension
of the cable tie dialed in perfectly, in order for the mechanism to function properly again.
Tricky as there is barely any room to work and it was suuuper hot outside, so i was absolutely drenched in sweat.
Sorry for the crappy pictures, as i said it is very cramped in there. But maybe this can still be helpful to some of you in the future.
As in many parts of Europe, this Autumn 2023 pulverized all previously know temperature and sunshine duration records in Austria, but every driving season comes to an end at some point.
I've taken the Monaro off the road until spring (SORNed) and already started removing a bunch of exterior parts that I will freshen up over winter. (B-pillar trim, diffuser, wiper arms, washer nozzles, headlights etc...)
I spent a lot of money on tires, suspension and braking components during my first four years of Monaro ownership, I figured now is the time for some cosmetic TLC.
With a car like the Monaro and an OCD like mine, it's always a never ending project.
Here is a quick cellphone picture form our last drive of the season, a 300 km round-trip to the former mining village of Unterlaussa in the Kalkalpen National Park via Hengstpass,
one of the best roads that I know of.
Plus, I have a question for other Monaro owners - I'll be replacing the tired old battery before spring.
Currently I have a Bosch S5 007 (750A, 74Ah) in the car, thinking about switching to an AGM battery like the Bosch S5 A08. I already have an AGM compatible trickle charger/battery tender.
A downside that I discovered during my research - It seems AGM batteries can be sensitive to high under-bonnet-temperatures (like an LS1 produces...)
Which is not an issue for most car manufacturers today, since a lot of modern cars have the battery in the trunk or under the seats.
Thoughts on AGM batteries in our V8 dinosaurs, please?
I've taken the Monaro off the road until spring (SORNed) and already started removing a bunch of exterior parts that I will freshen up over winter. (B-pillar trim, diffuser, wiper arms, washer nozzles, headlights etc...)
I spent a lot of money on tires, suspension and braking components during my first four years of Monaro ownership, I figured now is the time for some cosmetic TLC.
With a car like the Monaro and an OCD like mine, it's always a never ending project.
Here is a quick cellphone picture form our last drive of the season, a 300 km round-trip to the former mining village of Unterlaussa in the Kalkalpen National Park via Hengstpass,
one of the best roads that I know of.
Plus, I have a question for other Monaro owners - I'll be replacing the tired old battery before spring.
Currently I have a Bosch S5 007 (750A, 74Ah) in the car, thinking about switching to an AGM battery like the Bosch S5 A08. I already have an AGM compatible trickle charger/battery tender.
A downside that I discovered during my research - It seems AGM batteries can be sensitive to high under-bonnet-temperatures (like an LS1 produces...)
Which is not an issue for most car manufacturers today, since a lot of modern cars have the battery in the trunk or under the seats.
Thoughts on AGM batteries in our V8 dinosaurs, please?
Thank you for your valuable input, Lin!
I agree, an AGM battery isn't really necessary in our cars, they were developed in a time were traditional Lead–acid batteries were the norm.
However, the same can be said for most upgrades people like you and me add to our Monaros. They are awesome cars straight from the factory,
yet still we have the desire to personalize and improve certain aspects, don't we?
From what I gathered: AGM batteries are more resilient to battery drain when the car is not in use and almost immune to cold temperatures.
During the season, my Monaro sometimes does not get used for 2 to 3 weeks because of bad weather or work.
Additionally, the first owner of the car fitted an aftermarket alarm system which is responsible for a substantial parasitic draw.
Both these things are bad for a traditional lead-acid battery. I know I should always hook it up to the battery tender during those periods of standstill, but sometimes I simply forget to.
So it's mainly two things that make me think about going AGM:
- The more expensive AGM battery might last longer than the 4 years my current lead-acid battery has lasted in my specific use case.
- It's a piece of more advanced, modern technology. I love my 20 year old manual V8 dinosaur, but time has moved on and significant technological advancements were made within the last two decades.
I love how for example the modern Michelin Pilot Sport tires, autocross-inspired brake pads and the aftermarket-engineered Pedders rack and PU bushes improved my 20 year old car.
Personally, I can live without giant touch screens, lane keep assist, traffic sign recognition etc. in my cars.
However, I am a tech nerd, I am always interested in learning about the modern technology and safety features that have come to new cars - Like AGM batteries.
As you know, my Monaro is my dream car and I will keep it forever.
As such, I am always looking for things to refine and improve, while still preserving it's analogue 2000s charm that made me fall in love with it.
I agree, an AGM battery isn't really necessary in our cars, they were developed in a time were traditional Lead–acid batteries were the norm.
However, the same can be said for most upgrades people like you and me add to our Monaros. They are awesome cars straight from the factory,
yet still we have the desire to personalize and improve certain aspects, don't we?
From what I gathered: AGM batteries are more resilient to battery drain when the car is not in use and almost immune to cold temperatures.
During the season, my Monaro sometimes does not get used for 2 to 3 weeks because of bad weather or work.
Additionally, the first owner of the car fitted an aftermarket alarm system which is responsible for a substantial parasitic draw.
Both these things are bad for a traditional lead-acid battery. I know I should always hook it up to the battery tender during those periods of standstill, but sometimes I simply forget to.
So it's mainly two things that make me think about going AGM:
- The more expensive AGM battery might last longer than the 4 years my current lead-acid battery has lasted in my specific use case.
- It's a piece of more advanced, modern technology. I love my 20 year old manual V8 dinosaur, but time has moved on and significant technological advancements were made within the last two decades.
I love how for example the modern Michelin Pilot Sport tires, autocross-inspired brake pads and the aftermarket-engineered Pedders rack and PU bushes improved my 20 year old car.
Personally, I can live without giant touch screens, lane keep assist, traffic sign recognition etc. in my cars.
However, I am a tech nerd, I am always interested in learning about the modern technology and safety features that have come to new cars - Like AGM batteries.
As you know, my Monaro is my dream car and I will keep it forever.
As such, I am always looking for things to refine and improve, while still preserving it's analogue 2000s charm that made me fall in love with it.
Thanks guys, really appreciate your inputs.
Heat seems to be an issue for AGM batteries. I discovered that over in Australia, companies like Century have develoved high-temperature-resistant AGM batteries specifically for under-bonnet use.
They are expensive, but they do exist. However, not availabe anywhere here.
I'll bin the idea of getting an AGM battery for now.
Luckily, sometimes when you are torn between two options, a third one appears out of nowhere - the EFB (enhanced flooded battery).
They offer some of the benefits of AGM batteries, but can cope with high under-bonnet temperatures like a traditional lead-acid battery.
I've gone ahead and ordered a VARTA EFB 570 (70 Ah, 760 A). Going to pick it up at my local auto parts store next week.
Going forward, I'll make sure to always use my battery tender so it won't die a premature death.
Heat seems to be an issue for AGM batteries. I discovered that over in Australia, companies like Century have develoved high-temperature-resistant AGM batteries specifically for under-bonnet use.
They are expensive, but they do exist. However, not availabe anywhere here.
I'll bin the idea of getting an AGM battery for now.
Luckily, sometimes when you are torn between two options, a third one appears out of nowhere - the EFB (enhanced flooded battery).
They offer some of the benefits of AGM batteries, but can cope with high under-bonnet temperatures like a traditional lead-acid battery.
I've gone ahead and ordered a VARTA EFB 570 (70 Ah, 760 A). Going to pick it up at my local auto parts store next week.
Going forward, I'll make sure to always use my battery tender so it won't die a premature death.
Thanks for the heads up guys
It says MM6 on my build plaque under the hood, so that's what was put in at the assembly line in Australia in 2005.
I enjoy the powertrain as it is right now, some say you can never have enough power and noise, but 354 hp fits my car perfectly.
With stock power, gearing and diff I can floor it for 2 to 3 seconds without breaking every speed limit in the country and it still MOVES up on the mountain roads
I posted a few sound clips of the original exhaust last year - I think it's very fitting for a summer weekend grand tourer - which is how I mainly use mine.
Love all the Walkinshaw VX8s, HSV GTSes, Hellcats, SRT 392s, LS7 Corvettes and so on, but in my scenario, a subtle, stately V8 rumble is preferable.
Personally, if I wanted a pure muscle car or a track car, I would have gotten something else, there are much lighter and much more focused cars out there.
To each their own, the aftermarket is endless for LS engines and I love seeing all the different builds! Do you have a build thread of yours anywhere, granada?
It says MM6 on my build plaque under the hood, so that's what was put in at the assembly line in Australia in 2005.
I enjoy the powertrain as it is right now, some say you can never have enough power and noise, but 354 hp fits my car perfectly.
With stock power, gearing and diff I can floor it for 2 to 3 seconds without breaking every speed limit in the country and it still MOVES up on the mountain roads
I posted a few sound clips of the original exhaust last year - I think it's very fitting for a summer weekend grand tourer - which is how I mainly use mine.
Love all the Walkinshaw VX8s, HSV GTSes, Hellcats, SRT 392s, LS7 Corvettes and so on, but in my scenario, a subtle, stately V8 rumble is preferable.
Personally, if I wanted a pure muscle car or a track car, I would have gotten something else, there are much lighter and much more focused cars out there.
To each their own, the aftermarket is endless for LS engines and I love seeing all the different builds! Do you have a build thread of yours anywhere, granada?
Happy new year, from my Monaro to yours
This year's winter project is in full swing - It's time to freshen up the exterior of my now 19-year-old car.
I took off a whole bunch of parts for a refresh:
- Wiper arms
- Headlights
- Front bumper & upper grille, fog light bezels, lower grille
- Rear diffuser & fog light cover
- B-pillar trim
- washer nozzles
- engine cover
This is the current state of the car, which as you can see is parked up on RaceRamps Flatstoppers, as every year:
This year's winter project is in full swing - It's time to freshen up the exterior of my now 19-year-old car.
I took off a whole bunch of parts for a refresh:
- Wiper arms
- Headlights
- Front bumper & upper grille, fog light bezels, lower grille
- Rear diffuser & fog light cover
- B-pillar trim
- washer nozzles
- engine cover
This is the current state of the car, which as you can see is parked up on RaceRamps Flatstoppers, as every year:
Thanks guys! 
Trust me John, this car is never going anywhere haha
It sucks that I have to garage it for 5 months every year, although to some extent I found out it makes the whole Monaro experience even more special,
knowing I have to consciously take the time to properly enjoy it during the limited time of the year where the weather is nice enough.
The black metal blate/bracket thing that the battery sits on (battery tray?) has some corrosion on the forward facing edge that I need to tackle. Other than that it all looks really good.
But I'll definitely give everything a good clean before the bumper goes back on and even the smallest spot of corrosion will be annihilated!!!
Fred, the power steering cooler is a universal kit from Mishimoto (MMTC-U). When I bought the car the power steering cooler didn't look terribly bad,
but definitely not great either - I figured better be safe than sorry and had it replaced in 2020 at the same time the Pedders quick rack go installed, in preparation for the legalization process.
Do the VT2 HSV GTSes also suffer from badly corroding power steering coolers? On the Monaro it's laughably bad, some owners reported theirs failing after just a couple of years.
Did HSV not bother to replace this crappy part with a higher quality one?
Trust me John, this car is never going anywhere haha
It sucks that I have to garage it for 5 months every year, although to some extent I found out it makes the whole Monaro experience even more special,
knowing I have to consciously take the time to properly enjoy it during the limited time of the year where the weather is nice enough.
The black metal blate/bracket thing that the battery sits on (battery tray?) has some corrosion on the forward facing edge that I need to tackle. Other than that it all looks really good.
But I'll definitely give everything a good clean before the bumper goes back on and even the smallest spot of corrosion will be annihilated!!!
Fred, the power steering cooler is a universal kit from Mishimoto (MMTC-U). When I bought the car the power steering cooler didn't look terribly bad,
but definitely not great either - I figured better be safe than sorry and had it replaced in 2020 at the same time the Pedders quick rack go installed, in preparation for the legalization process.
Do the VT2 HSV GTSes also suffer from badly corroding power steering coolers? On the Monaro it's laughably bad, some owners reported theirs failing after just a couple of years.
Did HSV not bother to replace this crappy part with a higher quality one?
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