Help drivers window not winding properly
Discussion
Couldn't find anything in the search engine, so...
It goes down to about halfway and then stops/slows and makes some clicking noises. when you raise it, it seems under great resistance (let go of the button and the window still moves up a little!) then it clicks again and seems to "slot" back in...
I'm thinking its jumped out of its track/runners (?), but as I don't know the consrtuction of the window, it'll be a big exercise to take it all apart only to find there's not a runner to put it back into....!
Anyone experienced similar or know of a solution/diagram of door construction please?
TIA
It goes down to about halfway and then stops/slows and makes some clicking noises. when you raise it, it seems under great resistance (let go of the button and the window still moves up a little!) then it clicks again and seems to "slot" back in...
I'm thinking its jumped out of its track/runners (?), but as I don't know the consrtuction of the window, it'll be a big exercise to take it all apart only to find there's not a runner to put it back into....!
Anyone experienced similar or know of a solution/diagram of door construction please?
TIA
I've put you a Pdf together of window related stuff, if there's anything missing that you need let me Know and i'll add it on
www.4shared.com/file/120746209/360d1640/Window_Adjustment_-_Front_Door.html
www.4shared.com/file/120746209/360d1640/Window_Adjustment_-_Front_Door.html
Well, just got around to having a look at the Ro's window - with TR looming, I want everything to be working...
So, I've just spent the last 4 hours slowly dismantling my car!
The PDF is good and when you understand that the numbers in the text don't necesarily relate to the picture adjacent to the text things speed up considerably!
Been through all the adjustments listed and no luck.
Mine seems a bit more "terminal" than just a misadjusted guide.....
Basically, as the window lowers, the latch side of the glass drops out/moves further towards the rear of the car as it were, and consequently it falls out of the runner on the hinge side, it then fowls the door handle mechanism and then hits the bottom adjustment block on the top of it rather than sliding nicely down the side of it.
I'm at a loss of what to try now so have put the handle back on inside and locked it up for the night.....
HELP!
So, I've just spent the last 4 hours slowly dismantling my car!
The PDF is good and when you understand that the numbers in the text don't necesarily relate to the picture adjacent to the text things speed up considerably!
Been through all the adjustments listed and no luck.
Mine seems a bit more "terminal" than just a misadjusted guide.....
Basically, as the window lowers, the latch side of the glass drops out/moves further towards the rear of the car as it were, and consequently it falls out of the runner on the hinge side, it then fowls the door handle mechanism and then hits the bottom adjustment block on the top of it rather than sliding nicely down the side of it.
I'm at a loss of what to try now so have put the handle back on inside and locked it up for the night.....
HELP!
I've not done this before on a Ro but many times on old calton/senator/omega windows which do look almost the same
ensure the window is in all of its guides
one channel hinge side
hooked around the door frame lock side
there are 3 plastic runners 2 of which slide in the brackets on the glass the other slides into a metal channel about 6" long bolted to the inside of the door,this metal channel i think has slotted holes were it bolts to the door and by sliding the bracket up/down exerts pressure on the glass pushing it forwards or backwards. push the window hooked round the frame forward and try moving the bracket about to get the tension about right then tighten
also
if the bracket has been removed at all make sure its on the right way up/round
there should also be a rubber packer on the inside of the door frame were
the metal trim on the glass slides down into the door
Hope this helps and is'nt as clear as mud
ensure the window is in all of its guides
one channel hinge side
hooked around the door frame lock side
there are 3 plastic runners 2 of which slide in the brackets on the glass the other slides into a metal channel about 6" long bolted to the inside of the door,this metal channel i think has slotted holes were it bolts to the door and by sliding the bracket up/down exerts pressure on the glass pushing it forwards or backwards. push the window hooked round the frame forward and try moving the bracket about to get the tension about right then tighten
also
if the bracket has been removed at all make sure its on the right way up/round
there should also be a rubber packer on the inside of the door frame were
the metal trim on the glass slides down into the door
Hope this helps and is'nt as clear as mud
Edited by L2VXR on Thursday 24th September 20:11
L2VXR said:
I've not done this before on a Ro but many times on old calton/senator/omega windows which do look almost the same
ensure the window is in all of its guides
- (keeps falling out of the shorter hinge-side guide)
one channel hinge side
hooked around the door frame lock side
there are 3 plastic runners 2 of which slide in the brackets on the glass
-(do you mean on the scissor mechanism?)
the other slides into a metal channel about 6" long bolted to the inside of the door,this metal channel i think has slotted holes were it bolts to the door and by sliding the bracket up/down exerts pressure on the glass pushing it forwards or backwards. push the window hooked round the frame forward and try moving the bracket about to get the tension about right then tighten
-front metal chamnnel has very little movement for adjustment and the issue is it falls out (away from it) rather than being too tight, and no obvious way of keeping it in.....
MF Roger, is this a job for you or VX?
-tried this but setting the mechanism means it doesn't work when window at the top (closed) and vice versa, almost seems like some thing is seriously out of kilter
also
if the bracket has been removed at all make sure its on the right way up/round
there should also be a rubber packer on the inside of the door frame were
the metal trim on the glass slides down into the door
Hope this helps and is'nt as clear as mud
ensure the window is in all of its guides
- (keeps falling out of the shorter hinge-side guide)
one channel hinge side
hooked around the door frame lock side
there are 3 plastic runners 2 of which slide in the brackets on the glass
-(do you mean on the scissor mechanism?)
the other slides into a metal channel about 6" long bolted to the inside of the door,this metal channel i think has slotted holes were it bolts to the door and by sliding the bracket up/down exerts pressure on the glass pushing it forwards or backwards. push the window hooked round the frame forward and try moving the bracket about to get the tension about right then tighten
-front metal chamnnel has very little movement for adjustment and the issue is it falls out (away from it) rather than being too tight, and no obvious way of keeping it in.....
MF Roger, is this a job for you or VX?
-tried this but setting the mechanism means it doesn't work when window at the top (closed) and vice versa, almost seems like some thing is seriously out of kilter
also
if the bracket has been removed at all make sure its on the right way up/round
there should also be a rubber packer on the inside of the door frame were
the metal trim on the glass slides down into the door
Hope this helps and is'nt as clear as mud
Edited by L2VXR on Thursday 24th September 20:11
I had exaatly this happen to mine. One of the plastic runners that slide in the window channel had broken and the carrier that is bonded to the glass at the hinge end had unbonded itself. I rebonded it 3 times but it kept breaking. In the end I got Monkfish to repair it whilst they were doing lots of other work.
mark brown said:
I had exaatly this happen to mine. One of the plastic runners that slide in the window channel had broken and the carrier that is bonded to the glass at the hinge end had unbonded itself. I rebonded it 3 times but it kept breaking. In the end I got Monkfish to repair it whilst they were doing lots of other work.
Aha!
Didn't realise it should be bonded at the front as well as the rear! And therein lies my problem!
Thanks markbrown, at least now I have an idea of what gone wrong....
...now just where to get it fixed? Will Autoglass do this type of job or is it one for the fish?
Whilst I repaired it 3 times myself, using Araldite to bond it, it was not strong enough and you really want a really strong epoxy to do it properly. When it failed for the 3rd time I decided to get Monkfish to do it as I was worried that if I used a strong eopxy and bonded it in the wrong place, I would be in massive trouble. Speak to Roger, I got the impression that this was bit of a nightmare for them to fix.
Mark
Mark
Dealing with VX is like childbirth.(apparently!)... you forget how painful it is after a time and only remember when its too late!
Tried the easy approach and took it to local VX as working round the corner.....
"can you bond my glass"
"yes shouldn't be a problem" so duely took it in.
I had to phone at the end of the day only to be told "you need a new window assembly for £250...."
no prizes for guessing my answer....
going to try auto windscreens/rac autoglass tomorrow unless anyone else has a solution?
Tried the easy approach and took it to local VX as working round the corner.....
"can you bond my glass"
"yes shouldn't be a problem" so duely took it in.
I had to phone at the end of the day only to be told "you need a new window assembly for £250...."
no prizes for guessing my answer....
going to try auto windscreens/rac autoglass tomorrow unless anyone else has a solution?
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