Heater amp connector
Discussion
the ampllifiers are all but a pain to get hold of. Im actually repairing one for TVR Glen at the moment, but no idea if its for a car or not. Worth giving him a call as he may have one kicking about, or this one might be for sale. if you can't find one, I can make you an equivalent circuit to do the same job using the better components, can't say it would be as cheap as a broken one if you can get it but woudl get you out of a hole!
Your dash and door ECU are done Andy, so when your next in the neighborhood you can pick them up
Jody
Your dash and door ECU are done Andy, so when your next in the neighborhood you can pick them up
Jody
Hi All,
Still have a few connector sets available if anyone is interested?
Regarding my TVR T350T I have changed the male connector on the Heater Amp Circuit Board and the mating half on the car loom.
Blower fans still did not work so Heater Amp Board sent to Paul Smith for diagnosis. Result from his testing was that there were no faults with my Heater Amp even when he waggled the connector whilst hooked up to his test rig.
So I need to look further afield now with one item eliminated as a possible cause and wonder what other faults others have found that may stop air vent blower fans operating.
The LED lights around the fan switch light up correctly when the switch is turned
Any advise will be gratefully received.
Best regards,
Steve
Still have a few connector sets available if anyone is interested?
Regarding my TVR T350T I have changed the male connector on the Heater Amp Circuit Board and the mating half on the car loom.
Blower fans still did not work so Heater Amp Board sent to Paul Smith for diagnosis. Result from his testing was that there were no faults with my Heater Amp even when he waggled the connector whilst hooked up to his test rig.
So I need to look further afield now with one item eliminated as a possible cause and wonder what other faults others have found that may stop air vent blower fans operating.
The LED lights around the fan switch light up correctly when the switch is turned
Any advise will be gratefully received.
Best regards,
Steve
FroxmereST said:
Hi All,
Still have a few connector sets available if anyone is interested?
Regarding my TVR T350T I have changed the male connector on the Heater Amp Circuit Board and the mating half on the car loom.
Blower fans still did not work so Heater Amp Board sent to Paul Smith for diagnosis. Result from his testing was that there were no faults with my Heater Amp even when he waggled the connector whilst hooked up to his test rig.
So I need to look further afield now with one item eliminated as a possible cause and wonder what other faults others have found that may stop air vent blower fans operating.
The LED lights around the fan switch light up correctly when the switch is turned
Any advise will be gratefully received.
Best regards,
Steve
Going by your earlier post/posts, the fact that pushing on the connector got the motor working suggests that you are disturbing a bad connection further along the harnessStill have a few connector sets available if anyone is interested?
Regarding my TVR T350T I have changed the male connector on the Heater Amp Circuit Board and the mating half on the car loom.
Blower fans still did not work so Heater Amp Board sent to Paul Smith for diagnosis. Result from his testing was that there were no faults with my Heater Amp even when he waggled the connector whilst hooked up to his test rig.
So I need to look further afield now with one item eliminated as a possible cause and wonder what other faults others have found that may stop air vent blower fans operating.
The LED lights around the fan switch light up correctly when the switch is turned
Any advise will be gratefully received.
Best regards,
Steve
Just a thought.....Did the test rig have a motor or S O M E thing or other that load tested the circuit board
Paul Smith told me that his test rig has the same fans as per the T350 so loads on the Heater Amp are totally representative of the car.
I have lengthened the harness on the car loom to allow better positioning once sorted and old wiring seems ok?
Thanks for your suggestion as I need to check everything else carefully.
BR
Steve
I have lengthened the harness on the car loom to allow better positioning once sorted and old wiring seems ok?
Thanks for your suggestion as I need to check everything else carefully.
BR
Steve
konrad.holl said:
What I had done to cure the problem, looking at the situation this way:
Konrad.
That is exactly what I did. Looking at the circuit there is also one pin that looks like it was used for testing, so I removed the resistor and doubled that up for the second wire. - Obviously, the current is too high to pass through a single pin
- There is one unused pin on the connector
Konrad.
Thanks for replies.
As I understand from what Paul told me the function of the 4 wires that go to the Heater Amplifier board are as follows:
Green - Ignition live
Yellow - PWM signal
Black - Ground
Yellow/Black - Blower motor negative
The unit is a low side driver hence no need for any substantial power, just earth.
That would account for the Green wire (Ignition live) being a very thin gauge.
From a search on the internet ~
1) A low side driver is one in which the switching element is between the load and common.
2) And ~ Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) is a powerful technique for controlling analog circuits with a microprocessor's digital outputs. PWM is
employed in a wide variety of applications, ranging from measurement and communications to power control and conversion.
So as far as I know, from what I’ve read and been told, this circuit is low voltage.
Maybe my issue lies in earths somewhere?
More investigation required.
BR
Steve
As I understand from what Paul told me the function of the 4 wires that go to the Heater Amplifier board are as follows:
Green - Ignition live
Yellow - PWM signal
Black - Ground
Yellow/Black - Blower motor negative
The unit is a low side driver hence no need for any substantial power, just earth.
That would account for the Green wire (Ignition live) being a very thin gauge.
From a search on the internet ~
1) A low side driver is one in which the switching element is between the load and common.
2) And ~ Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) is a powerful technique for controlling analog circuits with a microprocessor's digital outputs. PWM is
employed in a wide variety of applications, ranging from measurement and communications to power control and conversion.
So as far as I know, from what I’ve read and been told, this circuit is low voltage.
Maybe my issue lies in earths somewhere?
More investigation required.
BR
Steve
Well I Googled 'low side driver' and now understand the units function better.
I have used my multimeter and checked the wires arriving at the heater amp harness connector:-
Green wire (ignition) - good voltage
Black wire - good earth connection
Black and yellow - good when tested to earth.
Yellow - not tested
With the harness connector still disconnected from the heater amp I used a piece of wire to connect between Black and Black/Yellow wires to provide the ground for the fans. With ignition switched on heater fans run at full blast so that test proves they do work ok.
I also removed a male pin from a new spare male pcb half of the connector and tried that for fit in the harness connector female sockets and all 4 are a lovely tight fit so there cannot be a bad connection between the two connector halves.
I am now at a loss as to what would stop the fans working as the heater amp has been tested and proved it's a good working unit.
The fan switch on the pod, switches on and off ok and all the led lights around the switch illuminate as it is rotated.
What I don't understand is how the fan speed is changed and assume there must be something controlling and varying the live supply to the fans that does that?
Has anyone got any thoughts?
I have used my multimeter and checked the wires arriving at the heater amp harness connector:-
Green wire (ignition) - good voltage
Black wire - good earth connection
Black and yellow - good when tested to earth.
Yellow - not tested
With the harness connector still disconnected from the heater amp I used a piece of wire to connect between Black and Black/Yellow wires to provide the ground for the fans. With ignition switched on heater fans run at full blast so that test proves they do work ok.
I also removed a male pin from a new spare male pcb half of the connector and tried that for fit in the harness connector female sockets and all 4 are a lovely tight fit so there cannot be a bad connection between the two connector halves.
I am now at a loss as to what would stop the fans working as the heater amp has been tested and proved it's a good working unit.
The fan switch on the pod, switches on and off ok and all the led lights around the switch illuminate as it is rotated.
What I don't understand is how the fan speed is changed and assume there must be something controlling and varying the live supply to the fans that does that?
Has anyone got any thoughts?
FroxmereST said:
Hi All,
Old topic but I have just bought a TVR T350T and the blower has stopped working.
Waggled the connector on the amplifier board and that made it work.
New connector required I thought so bought a new Souriau connector and pins having found another thread that detailed all the required parts.
Just spent a few hours soldering a new male half of the connector to the PCB and then extended the loom with new female half of connector wired in.
Connected everything up expecting success in the form of air flow from vents but nought....
The blower will come on if I push down on the connector?
Seems that something else is not quite right apart from the connector as all new pins and sockets must be making a good connection I would think.
Someone further up this thread said a company in Luton can refurbish, does anyone know their name and address or website?
Thanks for any assistance.
Cheers,
Steve
A waggle on the connector at the PCB made it work Surely this can't be a coincidence, every time you carry out the waggle test it works?Old topic but I have just bought a TVR T350T and the blower has stopped working.
Waggled the connector on the amplifier board and that made it work.
New connector required I thought so bought a new Souriau connector and pins having found another thread that detailed all the required parts.
Just spent a few hours soldering a new male half of the connector to the PCB and then extended the loom with new female half of connector wired in.
Connected everything up expecting success in the form of air flow from vents but nought....
The blower will come on if I push down on the connector?
Seems that something else is not quite right apart from the connector as all new pins and sockets must be making a good connection I would think.
Someone further up this thread said a company in Luton can refurbish, does anyone know their name and address or website?
Thanks for any assistance.
Cheers,
Steve
I did mention in an earlier post about the waggle at the connector possibly disturbing something further along the wiring loom
I am guessing that it is near on impossible to check the wiring at the motor without a major strip-down
There is something else that could cause the problem but the waggle test suggests not.........I'm now thinking as I type.......You mention about voltages that you are checking but I don't know where you are checking them. If you are checking the voltages out at the board or connector terminals you then need to check for the same readings at the cables after they exit the terminals and this is often achieved by testing at the motor..........If you can't test at the motor because you can't get to it, you need to use a pin to spike through the cables 50 to 100mm along from the board connector and check the voltages
If all the wiring including that at the motor is ok I would suspect that the motor is drawing too much current and the control unit is switching off. You need to contact the person with the test rig and ask them if a too high current draw through the control unit will switch it off
There is also the possibility that a thermal cut-out is fitted close to the motor
There is nothing else I can think of
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