Outrigger replacement

Outrigger replacement

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Discussion

rev-erend

Original Poster:

19,983 posts

223 months

Wednesday 13th March
quotequote all
Well it's finally time to replace my outriggers on my SEAC.

Over the past year the inside fronts have started to crumble but cross tubes and the rear all seem very solid. Nice solid ring when struck with a spanner.

So, I've bought the steel tube, extra gas for the mig, new mild steel spool fitted and also bought a chop saw which is amazing. Beautiful straight cuts on mild steel.

So my plan is to lift the body off the chassis by about 5 inches to allow a nice continuous weld and also replace the swirl pop as it looks to be past its best.

Please feel free to comment if you have done the job or think I am missing something!

Here is what I think needs to be disconnected / removed:

Heavy items, as the best place to jack the body looks to be the corners of the sills at end end (very sturdy on the SEAC) look a better bet than the floor pan:

Battery
Seats
Roof
Bonnet
Boot
front carpets

Items to Drain:
Radiator
Fuel tank
Swirl pot
Fuel lines

Under bonnet :
Earth straps to engine
Coil pack connectors / plug leads
Lambda sensor (if not enough cable slack)
Starter cables / solenoid cable
Coolant hoses
Rad fan connectors
Throttle cable if needed (enough slack?)
Washer bottle
General check for any other cable ties of cables / pipes that will impede / break parts when body lifted
Brake / clutch pipe to master cylinders
Servo
Engine management connector inc oil & water senders
Steering column bottom UJ (1 bolt, mark position, steering wheel straight ahead)
Gear knob
Speedo cable to control box near battery
oil filer housing
Fuel pipe (wheel arch) to fuel rail and any return feed

Under car:
Exhaust centre box mounts (tie up exhaust)
Reverse wire on g/box
Handbrake cable ties
Connectors to swirl pot
Remove fuel lines front to rear
Cable ties to chassis for fuel system etc..
Fuel level cable

Chassis to body bolts:
2 x rear chassis behind diff
2 x just in front of rear wheel arch
2 x in front of radiator
1 x seat belt near transmission tunnel
1 x footwell next to transmission tunnel
2 x each side rear and front of the main chassis mount plates inside outriggers
2 x small bolts inside engine bay next to the front wheel arch
2 X seat belt bolts to chassis (I think ..)


Hopefully that is the lot but please feel free to comment, as its a big list.

When lifted, that should also allow inspection of other areas on the chassis like mounting areas and other tubing.

Finally, what do you recommend to repaint the new steel:

Hammerite smooth / Por15 etc

Moose v8

50 posts

5 months

Wednesday 13th March
quotequote all
Regarding, chassis protection on my Griff using Rejel din1520p. Found on eBay then used Rustbusters 2 pack epoxy chassis paint. Excellent results , was recommended by a friend. Who did a restoration on tr6 done the mot for the last 5 years still looks good a few bits from when doing refurb on my wedge

Hamish400

254 posts

196 months

Thursday 14th March
quotequote all
Hi Alan,

I can send you a copy of an article I wrote years ago for Wedge Pages when I replaced the chassis on my 400SE. (My I-pad does not want to attach it here). It includes a list of items to be disconnected, bolt locations etc. for taking body completely off.
I expect SEAC will be very similar.
Is your e-mail address still the hotmail one you had in 2005?

Best regards
Hamish

Hamish400

254 posts

196 months

Thursday 14th March
quotequote all
Hi Alan,

I can send you a copy of an article I wrote years ago for Wedge Pages when I replaced the chassis on my 400SE. (My I-pad does not want to attach it here). It includes a list of items to be disconnected, bolt locations etc. for taking body completely off.
I expect SEAC will be very similar.
Is your e-mail address still the hotmail one you had in 2005?

Best regards
Hamish

adam quantrill

10,685 posts

181 months

Thursday 14th March
quotequote all
Two comments -

1. bin all the steel you bought and buy stainless instead, then you won't have to do the job again in another 25 years... Stainless will weld to mild no problems (and you can use wire/gas for mild steel).

2. Maybe you don't have to touch the engine/exhaust for the small amount of body lift you are doing? Won't the engine stay on its mounts anyway? As you are only lifting at the front, the rear exhaust mount should simply flex a bit, or if not just disconnect that one part.


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rev-erend

Original Poster:

19,983 posts

223 months

Thursday 14th March
quotequote all
Hamish400 said:
Hi Alan,

I can send you a copy of an article I wrote years ago for Wedge Pages when I replaced the chassis on my 400SE. (My I-pad does not want to attach it here). It includes a list of items to be disconnected, bolt locations etc. for taking body completely off.
I expect SEAC will be very similar.
Is your e-mail address still the hotmail one you had in 2005?

Best regards
Hamish
Hi Hamish. Yes it is.

Thanks

gmw9666

2,667 posts

139 months

Thursday 14th March
quotequote all
Hamish400 said:
Hi Alan,

I can send you a copy of an article I wrote years ago for Wedge Pages when I replaced the chassis on my 400SE. (My I-pad does not want to attach it here). It includes a list of items to be disconnected, bolt locations etc. for taking body completely off.
I expect SEAC will be very similar.
Is your e-mail address still the hotmail one you had in 2005?

Best regards
Hamish
Bloody good read Hamish, read loads before I did mine https://www.theseacpages.co.uk/bodyoff.html

Hamish400

254 posts

196 months

Thursday 14th March
quotequote all
Article and 2 lots of photos sent.

Good luck with the job

Hamish

rev-erend

Original Poster:

19,983 posts

223 months

Thursday 14th March
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Two comments -

1. bin all the steel you bought and buy stainless instead, then you won't have to do the job again in another 25 years... Stainless will weld to mild no problems (and you can use wire/gas for mild steel).

2. Maybe you don't have to touch the engine/exhaust for the small amount of body lift you are doing? Won't the engine stay on its mounts anyway? As you are only lifting at the front, the rear exhaust mount should simply flex a bit, or if not just disconnect that one part.
On point 2. yes will defo look to leave things alone if they have enough slack

Point 1. Well, I think I will pass as it could give a raft of issues. Like cracking around the weld, as welding different materials. The stainless around the weld would also loose its stainless qualities..

eesbad

1,283 posts

141 months

Thursday 14th March
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
Point 1. Well, I think I will pass as it could give a raft of issues. Like cracking around the weld, as welding different materials. The stainless around the weld would also loose its stainless qualities..
Hi Alan.

You can use a ferritic stainless steel and that welds fine with mild steel wire (we've been doing this for over 30 years welding the two materials together in structural members). A bit of post-weld cleaning to remove the de-chromed surface and Bob's your uncle.

However, mild steel is perfectly adequate and it's all about the coating, as I'm sure you're aware!

Rick

burnsdavies

58 posts

68 months

Thursday 14th March
quotequote all
Hi I did my 400se outriggers and the front tube and I must admit the body needed to be removed to get at it all properly also I found a split weld on one of the diagonal tubes in the centre tunnel best of luck

adam quantrill

10,685 posts

181 months

Friday 15th March
quotequote all
eesbad said:
You can use a ferritic stainless steel and that welds fine with mild steel wire...
Rick
That's excellent info, Rick. Just goes to show how valuable this forum is for pooled knowledge.

Alan did you get a list of dimensions (inlcuding wall thickness) for the pipe and box section you ordered? I may well order some in through my local metal store, but in 400 grade ferritic.

How are you going to approach the job - chop out the old, replicate first and then attach, or attach the pipes to the box section in situ?

Incidentally I had some issues at the front of the outriggers and welded in some stainless patches a few years ago, which are currently holding out fine, but it's probably putting off the inevitable. I expect they will survive and the mild will rot out around them!

Top tips for those suspecting holing in this area:

- Give the pipe behind the front whel a good cleanout on a regular basis to remove crud.
- I have also put a big wodge of axle grease behind the pipe in this area (old grease from UJ greasing is ideal - the stuff that comes out the sides).
- As there was already a hole I pushed a plastic pipe into the box section and poured in a mixture of old oil, old grease and some lighter stuff (probably white spirit) so it flows OK. The lighter stuff evaporates after a while leaving the heavy oils inside the box section, further protecting it.


rev-erend

Original Poster:

19,983 posts

223 months

Friday 15th March
quotequote all
Think it was 2mm wall thickness.. plates were 4mm.

I will probably put a hole in the place at certain rust trap places .. using my mates press.

It does great shapes.

My normal method if to cut out the old outrigger and use it as a template. The cross tubes will be tack welded on car and fully welded off the car.

The fabrication and welding is just a tiny part of the job.