T350 clutch slave cylinder options/ alternatives
Discussion
I've had the occasional small patch of fluid under my bell housing for a while. It's recently got worse and my brake warning light has come on, so I'm assuming the clutch slave is leaking. Further investigation required, but I'm wondering what the options are. I'm very loath to simply replace a known bad design with the same part. This was replaced by the previous owner less than 3000 miles ago.
Searching the forums comes up with people discussing alternatives, but none of the posts are modern and the suppliers mentioned no longer exist.
What is the latest thinking on this?
Searching the forums comes up with people discussing alternatives, but none of the posts are modern and the suppliers mentioned no longer exist.
What is the latest thinking on this?
It is scary. I spoke to the company that fitted it, just to try and find out which components they had used. They weren't certain but thought it would have been the Raceproved slave. They also said they are most likely to fail if they are not used for a while, which sounds odd to me.
I am a DIYer, but in this case I'm going to get Sussex TVR to do it as they are just up the road from me.
I also spoke to Racing Green who told me they get a reasonable number of the Raceproved slaves coming back due to seals getting damaged when fitting.
Why didn't TVR do something like this, instead of designing the worlds largest and least reliable slave cylinder?
I am a DIYer, but in this case I'm going to get Sussex TVR to do it as they are just up the road from me.
I also spoke to Racing Green who told me they get a reasonable number of the Raceproved slaves coming back due to seals getting damaged when fitting.
Why didn't TVR do something like this, instead of designing the worlds largest and least reliable slave cylinder?
Edited by non_linear on Saturday 8th January 09:48
Or you can fit a Tilton 60-6000 and be done with the TVR setup. Prices seem to have risen dramatically since 2015 when I did my Cerbera though.
Given the variability in TVR slave cylinder life I have an (entirely unproven) theory that its down to bellhousing machining and that some were machine out of true so the slave seals are subject to sideways forces they weren't meant to deal with and so you get cars with repeat failures. My Cerb has a history of clutch slave leaks until I fitted the Tilton part.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Given the variability in TVR slave cylinder life I have an (entirely unproven) theory that its down to bellhousing machining and that some were machine out of true so the slave seals are subject to sideways forces they weren't meant to deal with and so you get cars with repeat failures. My Cerb has a history of clutch slave leaks until I fitted the Tilton part.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edited by CerbWill on Saturday 8th January 20:16
Edited by CerbWill on Saturday 8th January 20:20
Very interesting, and exactly the sort of solution I am considering.
Looks like the release cylinder is just over £500 now, against £300 for the RP part.
https://www.competitionsupplies.com/tilton-6000-se...
Sounds like I would need to change the master cylinder too. Did you put in an end stop on the pedal? Any other machining required to the bellhousing other than a hole for the hydraulics to pass through?
One concern I have is how the Tilton release bearing would wear the clutch plate fingers, as it's possibly a different size and profile to the original.
Looks like the release cylinder is just over £500 now, against £300 for the RP part.
https://www.competitionsupplies.com/tilton-6000-se...
Sounds like I would need to change the master cylinder too. Did you put in an end stop on the pedal? Any other machining required to the bellhousing other than a hole for the hydraulics to pass through?
One concern I have is how the Tilton release bearing would wear the clutch plate fingers, as it's possibly a different size and profile to the original.
A 52mm radius faced bearing is the same as TVR used. Clutch fingers don't know the difference between a Tilton and the original.a pedal stop is a good idea to prevent over stroking and breaking clutch fingers as can be an issue with the standard slave as well.
I strongly suspect the hydraulic area of the Tilton and original slave cylinders are different. When I first tried to drive my car with the standard 0.7" master cylinder it worked but I found the clutch to be very on/off in engagement. Using a 0.625" master means you have to press the clutch pedal further to get the same slave movement so its easier to bring the clutch up gently. It makes the clutch lighter too.
You need to cut the centre section of the bellhousing out ( the section that the standard slave bolts to) with a 114mm hole saw, or get a machine shop to do it if you have the time/money and want a nicer finish. Obviously once you've done that you'll need a new bellhousing if you ever want to go back to the standard TVR setup.
I strongly suspect the hydraulic area of the Tilton and original slave cylinders are different. When I first tried to drive my car with the standard 0.7" master cylinder it worked but I found the clutch to be very on/off in engagement. Using a 0.625" master means you have to press the clutch pedal further to get the same slave movement so its easier to bring the clutch up gently. It makes the clutch lighter too.
You need to cut the centre section of the bellhousing out ( the section that the standard slave bolts to) with a 114mm hole saw, or get a machine shop to do it if you have the time/money and want a nicer finish. Obviously once you've done that you'll need a new bellhousing if you ever want to go back to the standard TVR setup.
PetrolHeadPete said:
This is the same replacement that was put in my Sag at ten years old when it had developed a little dribble (like it's owner after about three pints). It's still behaving itself six years on (owner, less so).GaryF said:
This is the same replacement that was put in my Sag at ten years old when it had developed a little dribble (like it's owner after about three pints). It's still behaving itself six years on (owner, less so).
We all develop a little dribble as we get older.What mileage have you got out of the RP slave?
My car has had new clutches at 28k, 38k, 45k, and now 49k. The intervals are getting shorter.
Edited by non_linear on Tuesday 11th January 09:15
non_linear said:
We all develop a little dribble as we get older.
What mileage have you got out of the RP slave?
My car has had new clutches at 28k, 38k, 45k, and now 49k. The intervals are getting shorter.
I think it is only around 9.7k since the replacement. I'm only at 26.5k miles in total on the car.What mileage have you got out of the RP slave?
My car has had new clutches at 28k, 38k, 45k, and now 49k. The intervals are getting shorter.
Edited by non_linear on Tuesday 11th January 09:15
On the subject of new clutches - I'm waiting for a new clutch (first one) but there is a supply problem from AP and I've been waiting for Racing Green (aka Partsfortvrs) stock for a few months. Where are you sourcing your latest clutch from?
Also in defence of the original design, the one that lasted the longest was the factory fitted original. Maybe that is down to correct alignment but all the later ones were fitted by big name TVR specialists, so they should have been properly fitted too.
As the AP clutch has only done 4300 miles I was planning on re-using it, if there is no damage.
As the AP clutch has only done 4300 miles I was planning on re-using it, if there is no damage.
I wonder if its down to the infamous starlocks breaking. I just fixed mine and applied the "factory tweak" to the butterfly springs to reduce the ridiculous pre-load that they have to endure (that's why they snap / flip inside out). On mine 2 out of 3 had broken and that must make the diaphragm pressure slightly lop sided...wonder if that's what gets it all started ?
Many thanks.
Wow! I'm not sure I have the cojones to pull a virtually new and very expensive clutch apart and start altering preloads.
Is this an issue that AP know about? How long do the starlocks last before breaking?
Should I at least be putting new starlocks on while the clutch is out?
I assume this is age dependant rather than number of cycles.
Wow! I'm not sure I have the cojones to pull a virtually new and very expensive clutch apart and start altering preloads.
Is this an issue that AP know about? How long do the starlocks last before breaking?
Should I at least be putting new starlocks on while the clutch is out?
I assume this is age dependant rather than number of cycles.
Edited by non_linear on Friday 14th January 12:25
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