Sagaris Rebuild

[Zeb74]

Olivera said:

For a separate roll cage to provide a significant stiffness benefit then it needs to be made of thick tubing (similar to the existing chassis) and be bolted down at multiple points on large spreader plates. The TVR backbone style chassis is about 50-60 years out of date, so I'm skeptical that a skinny roll cage inside a fibreglass body is going to add much.

See Adrian answer, the roll cage is bolted on multiple points. And moreover, the fact that parts of the tubes are bonded into the fiberglass is adding rigidity (however this is a nightmare if they rust...).

[LucyP]

This has all been done to death, 10 years ago. The thread is here:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

You can pretend all you like that the Sagaris is totally different, or miles better or stiffer or whatever than it's predecessors, but the reality is it's all TVR myth and spin.

Look at Brummie's comment from 18/01/13. Look at Graham's comment from 19/01/13. Even the roll-cage isn't very good.

It was also discussed only last week in connection with a Chim/Griffith, and Sportmotive who have developed improved chassis, have contributed to that discussion. You should read that too. Sportmotive commented on 26/07/23.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[Sonus]

mk1fan said:

A brief comment made during a wider conversation I was having at a certain TVR Tickler garage was that all the various 'convenience' ECU's (windows, mirrors etc ..) could be replaced with one Raspberry PI or similar. Would certainly make sense to locate this much smaller single unit somewhere waterproof away from heat etc ..

A proper plug and play Power Distribution Module (PDM) to replace the fuse panel/box/convenience ecus would be a really good upgrade.

[Adrian@]

LucyP said:

but the reality is it's all TVR myth and spin.

Because ...everyone says, that the best handling T car is the Tamora and it does not have the full cage, or the track change. LOL A@

[non_linear]

An interesting discussion about chassis design in general in this thread. It does mention how poor the TVR design is, but also points out chassis stiffness is overrated and that many fine handling cars had quite poor chassis designs by modern standards, Lotus Esprit included.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[LLantrisant]

tuscan racecar --> rollcage is bolted /welded to main chassis

Ginetta G20:
rollcage and side impact are part of the chassis:

[Clockwork Cupcake]

I really don't see the relevance. The Sagaris is how it is and it's not economically viable to change that

[LucyP]

Clockwork Cupcake said:

I really don't see the relevance. The Sagaris is how it is and it's not economically viable to change that

Spot on correct, but I think there is an element of at least discussion along the lines of restomod. Whether that is a good thing is another matter, but I think the thread is going that way, with talks about different engine management, and methods of controlling electronic/electrical distribution.

[robsco]

Olivera said:

Clockwork Cupcake said:

The picture is showing only the chassis

A roll cage and side impact bars should by modern standards be part of the bare tubular chassis.

Why are we having this conversation? It’s a Sagaris rebuild, the OP hasn’t claimed to be making it something it isn’t with the exception of some electrical tweaks. “Modern standards” is totally irrelevant. It’s a nigh on 20 year old car that was antiquated when new; very few people on this forum likely care about ultimate chassis stiffness, otherwise they’d have put their £80k into a McLaren.

Edited by robsco on Monday 31st July 21:05

[glow worm]

Basil Brush said:

Olivera said:

A roll cage and side impact bars should by modern standards be part of the bare tubular chassis.

There is a roll cage and side bars moulded in the body that bolts down to the chassis, so all tied together once the body is back on.

A Tuscan convertible

[Adrian@]

And pinched of the net from the Tuscan convert on Ebay...(this is on the Tamora, T350 and Sagaris too) the cross brace above the knees that the column and dash attach to, links to the central spine and screen hoop. A@

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 1st August 10:46

[Dave85chim]

Some interesting points here...

I never intended to re-engineer the Sag. For me, I am happy with the internal roll cage, side bars etc - it is what it is and if safety was my agenda, I wouldn't of gone down the route of TVR. However,. looking back I do regret not doing a bit more work with the Chimaera build on this front. I do find myself thinking about the what if's when it gets twitchy. - so great points to raise!

ECU, looms, fuse boards etc will be the areas of change.

[Clockwork Cupcake]

Dave85chim said:

However,. looking back I do regret not doing a bit more work with the Chimaera build on this front. I do find myself thinking about the what if's when it gets twitchy

I have always found my Sagaris to be far less twitchy, and far more intuitive and controllable, than my Chimaera 500 ever was. Partly that is down to the torque coming in much higher with the S6 engine, and the longer travel throttle pedal, so that you have to *ask* for the power (and hence you are less likely to be caught out), but also the much more resolved handling.

Should you want it, the Syvecs ECU will also give you multi-level traction control, with nothing more than just rear wheel speed sensors. Although I have always considered this merely a freebie rather than a reason for using Syvecs.

[glow worm]

Just remembered ...get rid of the Citroen power steering relay and move a higher rated relay into the passenger footwell (where at least its dry)
Other stainless bits and bobs... especially the power steering mount bracket, various water pipes , stainless oil pipe ends and braided and all the nuts & bolts.
and of course Leet350s' Ally water washer tank

Edited by glow worm on Wednesday 2nd August 17:32

[non_linear]

Off the top of my head:
Put protective braid around the wiring loom where it might rub against the body.
Use waterproof connectors for the cooling fans.
Change the clutch slave cylinder to a Tilton type.
There is a company whose name evades me who do a mod to the steering rack to stop it leaking.
Change the battery to a type that has the +ve terminal away from the chassis (later models had this as standard)
Modify the cabin heater fan controller to use 2 pins for each of the power lines instead of one (halving the current through each pin and stopping the connector melting, and then catching fire).
I've not got to the bottom of this yet, but I believe there is an issue with the Meta alarm/immobiliser being wired incorrectly. I would look at correcting this. More info here: https://abacusalarms.co.uk/re-coding-meta-alarms/t...

[Dave85chim]

A big day yesterday - 2 became 1! (temporarily). Have only secured the body in a few places - as it will be coning off for a respray in a few months..

Edited by Dave85chim on Monday 25th September 12:29

[Granturadriver]

Dave, we need more than this pre pic of your operation! So please ad some after pics as well!

[Dave85chim]

Hi Grantura - this is me as of 5pm yesterday. Spent the last few months on the chassis.

[Cacatous]

Is this build still ongoing?

[Dave85chim]

Still going strong!, off for a respray on the 27th! super excited!