Sagaris A/C - You've got be joking TVR
Discussion
One final bit of info have since found out for that the flap zero setting of 16 was the original factory default. I guess any cars with it set to 0 have either lost the original value somehow or were missed at the factory. Either way seems they didn't bother to fine tune the setting though...
VARLEYHYD said:
paul1962 said:
Is there a trick to getting the glove box out or is it just a case of lots of brute force ?
Don't want to break anything.
Don't want to break anything.
Lift the bottom edge out first, then roll this edge up and out with the lid slightly open.The first time it doesn't seem right but its quite strurdy and wont break easily, just watch the hinge
G
Putting it back in was quite scarey too.
After much playing with "flap zero" I find the magical figure for my car is 22-24.
At this there is still quite warm air coming from the dash top vents but I think it's the best I'm going to get. Turning the temperature control towards hot gradually cuts off the cold air flow until, with the second to last led lit, there is non at all and the hot air is so hot you can't hold your hand above the vent.
I noticed a couple of times, especially on long runs or hot weather, that the cold air flow reduces considerably. Did you confirm that moving the fan controller into the cold air stream improved this ?
Did you extend the wiring when moving the controller or does the existing reach.
Cheers for your help.
Paul
ITS SUMMER AGAIN!
EDITED REPOSTED(others deleted) ON HOT AIR FROM DASH/FOOTWELL & AIRCON/HEATER ISSUES
Ventilation & Aircon is a bit hit and miss; but should be like an ice box and too cold on full chat.
Even without aircon you should NOT get any heater hot air in the cabin when cold selected
I've done the following with the Sagaris, can't be sure it'll work for others though:-
The air duct in the lower dash is for the cold only.The screen and lower vents should also be cold and only go hot when selected with or without aircon, but they will warm a little in traffic without the aircon on, but never get silly hot.
The Sagaris has a very important dividing panel on the n/s to seperate the hot air from the radiator that the early T350 and Tam's don't, seems very easy to replicate and fit. The heater fan air intake is under the light and simply goes between the inner and outer wing to the heater intake; so if the panels not there it brings in hot air from the rads. Keep the intake clear of flies too.
Heater dividing panel
ON POD 8 menu the flap zero is critical to whether the car cooks or not regardless if you have aircon or not!.
I spent loads of time on it but it works a dream now; to check this:-
I selected cold and maximum fan and adjusted the zero position until nearly all the airflow was to the lower dash vents only. My flap setting was 0, but now 26 (factory setting understood to be 16). Remember to save the settings
When the car is warmed up and cold is selected no hot air comes through the top vents anymore, only if it is selected.
It will take some time to set up but, if this doesn't work theres a chance the flap may have come loose off the motor, or the flap motor failed. It's in the gasketed box behind the aircon expansion valve/pipes. Usually get a Flap fault-126 warning if faulty, but I've not needed to get in there yet.
I also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat soak to the cabin whilst changing the reverse switch and made a additional gaiter for the gear stick, and plugged the hot air leaks that come from behind the POD. Removed carpet on footwell underside; I ran the heater fan to max and found that there was a big gap between the bulkhead and the air duct that goes to the dash, i sealed it up with some expanding neoprene sponge.
This improved the air flow to the drivers vent loads.
The transfered heat on the gear knob was sorted by changing to a ceramic heat break, and no burning palms now.
I further improved this by taking out the glove box and sealing it better and also creating a barrier with aluminium foil tape betwen the upper dash and the lower to reduce/stop heat transfer when the car warms up. (to take out remove two screws, lift front edge and roll upwards and back)
Passenger footwell underside show gaps & sensors
Pod sealing with neprene sponge
I fitted the cold air sensor into the hole that was taped over, then screwed the hot one into the brass insert on the bulkhead. I think they had problems with them at the factory so may not have fitted them, but when you do fit them and the cars up to temperature you may get a fault code 137 when it gets too hot; but getting the fl;ap zero sorts this.
ON POD 5 menu. When cold and the engine and aircon is not running all the sensors should be about the same temperature; The hot air and cold air sensors were dangling from the loom on mine,before i fitted as above; you can find out which is which by un plugging.
The ambient air temp is the one on the o/s of the rad that pokes through to the splitter/inner wing, and gets silly readings as the car slows in heat(and also wind chill) you can improve this by using a nylon nut (rather than steel) and a fibre insulating washer; and move to the other side of the splitter into the free air flow to the brakes.
Heater Controller
This may overheat(for the fan and flap)and reduce the cold air flow to nothing on long journeys.
To keep the controller cool in an attempt to rectify I have fitted mine behind the glovebox in the cold air section, not sure if this helps but mines not failed since.
Heater controller moved(not sure if it helps though)
AIRCON POD 5 menu status screen
There's no point looking at this section until you've sorted bits above first;
Select with the blue lamp on the aircon (CL) clutch is operated you should here it click and read 'on'; The aircon pump clutch supply is connected to the red wire you can just see in the pic below, Its fuse no.28 20Amp; The red wire connects to the loom white wire (terminal M) on the small round plug behind the airbox that goes through to the dash. The connection by the aircon pump is only a bullet/crimp and can fail easily; mine had been cut under a tiewrap in the loom.
There should be a supply on the white loom wire to the connector when aircon selected if not see below
Aircon pump red wire
Thro POD 5. menu.
Fan is 0-100% dependant where knob is
Flap is 0-100%dependant where knob is (nothing to do with the zero in POD 8 menu).
CL= Clutch 'off' - air con pump signal off, should change as soon as you press to get blue lamp
PR= 'on'- system pressure charged up/heathly and is reliant on the signal from the trinary switch (three set points HP28 MP17 LP2) on right hand side by VIN plate on photo. If connector loose/pulled off and not seeing the signal,will give the reading PR=off.
IC= Thermostat- should always be 'on'
This has a copper capillary wire sitting in the footwell above the battery box top. Not sure what this does but mine is set to maximum, be careful with the capillary wire. 'IC'should always be 'on' as this cuts the supply to the aircon pump (if not by-pass the circiut to see if faulty)
Aircon Thermostat
Aircon refrigerant 750 and 60cc of pag46 oil
Hope this helps?
G;)
EDITED REPOSTED(others deleted) ON HOT AIR FROM DASH/FOOTWELL & AIRCON/HEATER ISSUES
Ventilation & Aircon is a bit hit and miss; but should be like an ice box and too cold on full chat.
Even without aircon you should NOT get any heater hot air in the cabin when cold selected
I've done the following with the Sagaris, can't be sure it'll work for others though:-
The air duct in the lower dash is for the cold only.The screen and lower vents should also be cold and only go hot when selected with or without aircon, but they will warm a little in traffic without the aircon on, but never get silly hot.
The Sagaris has a very important dividing panel on the n/s to seperate the hot air from the radiator that the early T350 and Tam's don't, seems very easy to replicate and fit. The heater fan air intake is under the light and simply goes between the inner and outer wing to the heater intake; so if the panels not there it brings in hot air from the rads. Keep the intake clear of flies too.
Heater dividing panel
ON POD 8 menu the flap zero is critical to whether the car cooks or not regardless if you have aircon or not!.
I spent loads of time on it but it works a dream now; to check this:-
I selected cold and maximum fan and adjusted the zero position until nearly all the airflow was to the lower dash vents only. My flap setting was 0, but now 26 (factory setting understood to be 16). Remember to save the settings
When the car is warmed up and cold is selected no hot air comes through the top vents anymore, only if it is selected.
It will take some time to set up but, if this doesn't work theres a chance the flap may have come loose off the motor, or the flap motor failed. It's in the gasketed box behind the aircon expansion valve/pipes. Usually get a Flap fault-126 warning if faulty, but I've not needed to get in there yet.
I also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat soak to the cabin whilst changing the reverse switch and made a additional gaiter for the gear stick, and plugged the hot air leaks that come from behind the POD. Removed carpet on footwell underside; I ran the heater fan to max and found that there was a big gap between the bulkhead and the air duct that goes to the dash, i sealed it up with some expanding neoprene sponge.
This improved the air flow to the drivers vent loads.
The transfered heat on the gear knob was sorted by changing to a ceramic heat break, and no burning palms now.
I further improved this by taking out the glove box and sealing it better and also creating a barrier with aluminium foil tape betwen the upper dash and the lower to reduce/stop heat transfer when the car warms up. (to take out remove two screws, lift front edge and roll upwards and back)
Passenger footwell underside show gaps & sensors
Pod sealing with neprene sponge
I fitted the cold air sensor into the hole that was taped over, then screwed the hot one into the brass insert on the bulkhead. I think they had problems with them at the factory so may not have fitted them, but when you do fit them and the cars up to temperature you may get a fault code 137 when it gets too hot; but getting the fl;ap zero sorts this.
ON POD 5 menu. When cold and the engine and aircon is not running all the sensors should be about the same temperature; The hot air and cold air sensors were dangling from the loom on mine,before i fitted as above; you can find out which is which by un plugging.
The ambient air temp is the one on the o/s of the rad that pokes through to the splitter/inner wing, and gets silly readings as the car slows in heat(and also wind chill) you can improve this by using a nylon nut (rather than steel) and a fibre insulating washer; and move to the other side of the splitter into the free air flow to the brakes.
Heater Controller
This may overheat(for the fan and flap)and reduce the cold air flow to nothing on long journeys.
To keep the controller cool in an attempt to rectify I have fitted mine behind the glovebox in the cold air section, not sure if this helps but mines not failed since.
Heater controller moved(not sure if it helps though)
AIRCON POD 5 menu status screen
There's no point looking at this section until you've sorted bits above first;
Select with the blue lamp on the aircon (CL) clutch is operated you should here it click and read 'on'; The aircon pump clutch supply is connected to the red wire you can just see in the pic below, Its fuse no.28 20Amp; The red wire connects to the loom white wire (terminal M) on the small round plug behind the airbox that goes through to the dash. The connection by the aircon pump is only a bullet/crimp and can fail easily; mine had been cut under a tiewrap in the loom.
There should be a supply on the white loom wire to the connector when aircon selected if not see below
Aircon pump red wire
Thro POD 5. menu.
Fan is 0-100% dependant where knob is
Flap is 0-100%dependant where knob is (nothing to do with the zero in POD 8 menu).
CL= Clutch 'off' - air con pump signal off, should change as soon as you press to get blue lamp
PR= 'on'- system pressure charged up/heathly and is reliant on the signal from the trinary switch (three set points HP28 MP17 LP2) on right hand side by VIN plate on photo. If connector loose/pulled off and not seeing the signal,will give the reading PR=off.
IC= Thermostat- should always be 'on'
This has a copper capillary wire sitting in the footwell above the battery box top. Not sure what this does but mine is set to maximum, be careful with the capillary wire. 'IC'should always be 'on' as this cuts the supply to the aircon pump (if not by-pass the circiut to see if faulty)
Aircon Thermostat
Aircon refrigerant 750 and 60cc of pag46 oil
Hope this helps?
G;)
Hi Graham, relocating my heater controller this weekend as the airflow stopped on the last trip again. Incidentally, did you ever experience extreme cold, to the point of condensation on the passenger side door/window switch plate. When I run the air-con for any length of time I find that this area gets really cold.
Last question, for now, when I turn the aircon off I find that the cold air coming through is still very chilly even minutes later. I might be mistaken but it's almost like the aircon does not turn off until I stop the car and then start off again, even though the blue neon does go off. Is this possible ?
Thanks as Ever
David
Last question, for now, when I turn the aircon off I find that the cold air coming through is still very chilly even minutes later. I might be mistaken but it's almost like the aircon does not turn off until I stop the car and then start off again, even though the blue neon does go off. Is this possible ?
Thanks as Ever
David
Has anyone investigated where the air for the driver's footwell vent comes from. I guess it is from the outside somewhere at the back of the engine bay. Mine puts out roasting hot air at all times. I'm thinking of taping it/sealing it shut, but want to check whether it is driven by the fans (windscreen vents seem OK, normal warmish/coolish air). I might be better sealing the other end of the duct if possible...
My aircon works well and it does provide me with a great drink cooler in the glovebox , plus I get the cold left hand door control panel too.
My aircon works well and it does provide me with a great drink cooler in the glovebox , plus I get the cold left hand door control panel too.
]
Have a look atthe post above, you may have air gaps causing the heat
G
Targarama said:
Has anyone investigated where the air for the driver's footwell vent comes from. I guess it is from the outside somewhere at the back of the engine bay. Mine puts out roasting hot air at all times. I'm thinking of taping it/sealing it shut, but want to check whether it is driven by the fans (windscreen vents seem OK, normal warmish/coolish air). I might be better sealing the other end of the duct if possible...
Upper dash and footwell vents are joined together behind in the body just behind the bulkhead; it's supplied via the ventillation blowers intake which is under the passenger side head light on the Sagaris.Have a look atthe post above, you may have air gaps causing the heat
G
Thread resurrection... Some really helpful info in here, thanks.
My T350 seems to all work as it should; hot air through the upper dash when set hot, cold air through the lower dash when set cold, and colder air when the A/C is on.
However, it seems that even when it's set to coldest, there is a shed load of residual heat in the upper dash, but hot air flowing out of the vents, enough heat to considerably warm up the car when the A/C is on and cold air is flowing from the lower dash vents.
Is this simply a flap setting issue?
My T350 seems to all work as it should; hot air through the upper dash when set hot, cold air through the lower dash when set cold, and colder air when the A/C is on.
However, it seems that even when it's set to coldest, there is a shed load of residual heat in the upper dash, but hot air flowing out of the vents, enough heat to considerably warm up the car when the A/C is on and cold air is flowing from the lower dash vents.
Is this simply a flap setting issue?
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