Removing Fuse-22
Discussion
The biggest effect would be on you every time you smile when you start her up or accelerate.
Personally I would recommend getting it switchable. On the motorway at 80 mph you are at around 3,000 rpm (in a V8V manual) and it is nice to be able to switch back to quiet mode for cruising.
Personally I would recommend getting it switchable. On the motorway at 80 mph you are at around 3,000 rpm (in a V8V manual) and it is nice to be able to switch back to quiet mode for cruising.
I don't like quiet 
If I want quiet I'd put on ear-mufflers. 
Here are some comments from someone found on the net:
a). Pulling the fuse can lead to seizing of the solenoids in the muffler - it also causes the car to run rich on the lower rpm spectrum which isnt that bad but isnt good either.
b) I did it (pulled #22) for a short while and it resulted in a noticeable reduction in power and drivability. You shouldn't do it IMHO.
^ Any comments to this?
If I want quiet I'd put on ear-mufflers. Here are some comments from someone found on the net:
a). Pulling the fuse can lead to seizing of the solenoids in the muffler - it also causes the car to run rich on the lower rpm spectrum which isnt that bad but isnt good either.
b) I did it (pulled #22) for a short while and it resulted in a noticeable reduction in power and drivability. You shouldn't do it IMHO.
^ Any comments to this?
HennyAM said:
...^ Any comments to this?
Oh yes...I shall quote you Mike at Bamford Rose...Fuse 22:
Loss of low speed torque when fuse 22 is removed - there is None - exhaust bypass valves open Vs closed returns the same torque output. On a 4.7L 10% torque loss is approx. 50Nm, the report of this sort of loss by removal of fuse 22 is quite outrageous.
The bypass valves are present for one reason, and one reason ONLY - so the vehicle can pass noise drive-by test. The car is tested on a controlled surface which is in controlled surroundings making noise recording very accurate. The total noise the car produces is measured at a start gate, around 30MPH in third gear, the car then accelerates at full throttle to around 55MPH where the test terminates at the end gate. The engine speed and load (volumetric efficiency) conditions the car is operated under during this test defines how the exhaust bypass valves are controlled by the EMS. The exhaust bypass valves only purpose is to effectively cheat the test and gain a noise drive-by test pass for an exhaust system that would otherwise fail, being too loud.
Exhaust back pressure at the conditions where the bypass valves operate is so low as to be immeasurable, this means that open or closed the bypass valves will have no consequence over torque output. However, that statement would be wrong if the bypass valves were closed after anything above around 4000 rpm full throttle, where torque output would be reduced.
Removing fuse 22 electronically inhibits operation of the vacuum pump which controls the valves. The default position of the valves is 'open', so by disabling the system the valves simply sit in their default position. Prolonged usage with the valves at default open position is highly unlikely to seize or stick the valves should they be operated at some point in the future. I have also read elsewhere owners have been advised not to remove fuse 22 as they have been told it creates fault codes which disrupt the diagnostic system, or somehow creates other (electronic / mechanical) faults - Rubbish... All that happens is a PCode is simply registered within the modules history to state electronic control of the valves was not possible, this code does not illuminate the yellow 'check engine' light on the dash.
In summary - remove the fuse and enjoy the soundtrack.....!!!
In essence, you can follow the advice of some bloke on the net...or listen to advice from the guy that engineers and builds Astons for a living.
Your choice
On the factory tour, we were given the b
ks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages.
ks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages. Neil1300R said:
On the factory tour, we were given the bks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages.
Yeah, it was weird that he made that comment. Noise isn't tested and emissions are controlled from way before you reach the backbox. Plus quite what the baffles would do for emissions I don't know.ks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages. Maybe the valves would seize over a very prolonged period, any mechaniocal device designed to move which doesn't will eventially seize in theory. But it hasn't happened yet I don't think!
yeti said:
Neil1300R said:
On the factory tour, we were given the bks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages.
Yeah, it was weird that he made that comment. Noise isn't tested and emissions are controlled from way before you reach the backbox. Plus quite what the baffles would do for emissions I don't know.ks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages. Maybe the valves would seize over a very prolonged period, any mechaniocal device designed to move which doesn't will eventially seize in theory. But it hasn't happened yet I don't think!
That bloody DB9 of yours is the loudest thing this side of a Saturn V rocket.....after meeting you Yeti I’m convinced you are barking mad....in a nice way
PS have you had that dry sump conversion fitted yet??
Neil1300R said:
On the factory tour, we were given the bks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages.
If noise emmissions ever does become a MOT test requirement then having the switch is an even better investment ks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages. If noise emissions ever becomes part of MOT regulations, then the F430 will simply fail. That's the loudest thing I've ever been in.
And for the flap...I think I'll put in the Fuse-22 every 9 weeks, drive with it in for a few days, then remove it again. Sounds like a good idea of "maintaining" the car?
And for the flap...I think I'll put in the Fuse-22 every 9 weeks, drive with it in for a few days, then remove it again. Sounds like a good idea of "maintaining" the car?
HennyAM said:
I have one final question. Does it use more petrol???
It saves petrol; with the fuse in, you need to use a heavy right foot and plenty of revs to get the good noises. With the fuse removed, you just need a heavy right foot.But aside from that, you're driving a car that costs £80 per week in petrol, and depreciates £250 per week, so petrol just doesn't matter.
v8woollie said:
Neil1300R said:
On the factory tour, we were given the bks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages.
If noise emmissions ever does become a MOT test requirement then having the switch is an even better investment ks that removing the fuse could seize the valves, which would cause it to fail an MOT on noise and emissions. Did point out mine had successfully been through 3 MOTs (latest was last month) with no problem. Two of the MOT's were at non AM garages. Hey guys...
Was just out driving a little bit. It happened twice, so it makes me wonder if it happens with yours as well. I believe I heard "popping" like twice, on very low revs - Is this normal it gives off this noise like its some sort of harley davidson motorbike?
And thanks for the answers...It is truly more fun to drive it now @ low revs!
Was just out driving a little bit. It happened twice, so it makes me wonder if it happens with yours as well. I believe I heard "popping" like twice, on very low revs - Is this normal it gives off this noise like its some sort of harley davidson motorbike?
And thanks for the answers...It is truly more fun to drive it now @ low revs!
v8woollie said:
The biggest effect would be on you every time you smile when you start her up or accelerate.
Personally I would recommend getting it switchable. On the motorway at 80 mph you are at around 3,000 rpm (in a V8V manual) and it is nice to be able to switch back to quiet mode for cruising.
Wollie I couldn't agree more... the only problem I have is that every time I start mine up it sets at least one alarm off of cars that are parked near her.... must be something to do with being parked underground.... have you fitted the switch?Personally I would recommend getting it switchable. On the motorway at 80 mph you are at around 3,000 rpm (in a V8V manual) and it is nice to be able to switch back to quiet mode for cruising.
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