Discussion
adsl3897 said:
Not according to Aston directly....
"Many thanks for your enquiry. Unfortunately the glass button kits are only suitable for 4.7 (09MY) vehicles onwards, so would not be suitable for your model"
Well that's a real bummer. That was going to be one of my upgrades early this year. "Many thanks for your enquiry. Unfortunately the glass button kits are only suitable for 4.7 (09MY) vehicles onwards, so would not be suitable for your model"
MichaelV8V said:
To paraphrase Peter Wheeler, someone intelligent enough to buy an Aston Martin is intelligent enough to remember what the buttons do.
Pick some with nice diagrams and commit their function to memory.
Unfortunately, your idea won't work. Each of the switches is keyed to a corresponding connector on the wiring harness. Unless you can source the matching connector and rewire the harness, you won't be able to connect the switch. Pick some with nice diagrams and commit their function to memory.
KarlFranz said:
Unfortunately, your idea won't work. Each of the switches is keyed to a corresponding connector on the wiring harness. Unless you can source the matching connector and rewire the harness, you won't be able to connect the switch.
I looked at this do use the screen defrost switches for my heated seats KarlFranz said:
Unfortunately, your idea won't work. Each of the switches is keyed to a corresponding connector on the wiring harness. Unless you can source the matching connector and rewire the harness, you won't be able to connect the switch.
Good point, I should have remembered that, I bought a spare wiring loom to give me all the connectors I needed for some work I was doing. From what I remember, the housing of each switch is different, but someone handly with a sharp blade could adapt a housing to fit into a different switch. In the centre of the connectors is the same 4-pin wiring plug, then the housing is there just to make sure nobody plugs the wires into the wrong switch.mikey k said:
I looked at this do use the screen defrost switches for my heated seats Judging by the size of the wires, the switches won't take much current, but probably enough if you want to use one to send a signal to a relay. But it does look like a lot of work to retain the OEM appearance.
However, I do have a suggestion which overcomes all these problems. You could buy the AM switches you need, then rip out the guts and put a locking push switch in place behind the AM button front. Something like this http://www.maplin.co.uk/illuminated-locking-push-s... should do nicely. I haven't done the measuring yet, but it looks like it should fit. You might have to compromise on the switch illumination, unless you're really handy with a dremmel and soldering iron !
MichaelV8V said:
Mikey, all the AM switches are intermittent, not latching, so they aren't ideal for most aftermarket accessories. In other words, they don't switch 'on' then 'off', they just send a pulse whilst the button is pressed, so you'd need to sort out something to turn that into an on/off toggle capable of handling the current.
Judging by the size of the wires, the switches won't take much current, but probably enough if you want to use one to send a signal to a relay. But it does look like a lot of work to retain the OEM appearance.
However, I do have a suggestion which overcomes all these problems. You could buy the AM switches you need, then rip out the guts and put a locking push switch in place behind the AM button front. Something like this http://www.maplin.co.uk/illuminated-locking-push-s... should do nicely. I haven't done the measuring yet, but it looks like it should fit. You might have to compromise on the switch illumination, unless you're really handy with a dremmel and soldering iron !
Yep that and the loom connector issue put me off.Judging by the size of the wires, the switches won't take much current, but probably enough if you want to use one to send a signal to a relay. But it does look like a lot of work to retain the OEM appearance.
However, I do have a suggestion which overcomes all these problems. You could buy the AM switches you need, then rip out the guts and put a locking push switch in place behind the AM button front. Something like this http://www.maplin.co.uk/illuminated-locking-push-s... should do nicely. I haven't done the measuring yet, but it looks like it should fit. You might have to compromise on the switch illumination, unless you're really handy with a dremmel and soldering iron !
I'm going to try hiding the switches that came with the heaters
KarlFranz said:
Does anyone know where or how Bamford sources the matching plug connector for the "Sport" and "Damper" glass buttons in Yeti's and GlynV8's cars?
Just to answer this and follow up my request with an update;The connectors on the switches are very easy to source. The pins are the same pitch as a Molex board connector. If you cant find the right Molex connector, then you can get single pin connectors.
Here's an easy single pin cable set - http://www.maplin.co.uk/colour-single-pin-intercon...
The buttons on pre 09 V8V have 6 pins. Only 5 of the pins have a function. The board inside the switch had SMD components mounted on it. I presume so AM can multiplex some cables and functions. Unfortunately, that makes it difficult to interface with aftermarket ideas.
If you good with wave soldered surface mount components, then you can re-task the board.
I took apart and used a couple of switches before I got it right.
Pin 1 is supply to the momentary of the switch, the active red LED has its own two pins for +ve and 0v. The white illumination has a +ve and the 0ve is commoned to the other side of the momentary switch. (switch appears negative switching..)
I seperated out the board functions and made use of the 6th pin to get +ve and 0v for each LED and a seperate two pins for the switch.
Then hook the switch to the input of a flip-flop relay board. The output of the board goes to a 30A N/C relay in the boot and the +ve of the output to the red ON LED.
The 0v of the both LED's go to the 0v on the cigarette lighter socket. The +ve of the illumination was taken from an adjascent switch.
Voila! a Sport button that latches and lights up when pressed that activates the fuse 22 mod.
I removed the passenger airbag light and left it connected but hidden under the trim panel. The sport switch went in its place. You could either do that, replace any other switch or get a trim panel with additional holes.
If there was enough demand, it would be possible to produce a board dedicated to that with plug and play capability. You woul dhave to connect an ignition switched live, negative and run a cable to the boot. Get a sport switch and just plug it in.
Edited by divetheworld on Tuesday 19th February 17:07
Edited by divetheworld on Tuesday 19th February 17:09
Wow, divetheworld, incredibly detailed post. And you must have read my mind because part of what you mention is indeed exactly what I want to do. My idea was to repurpose a Sport switch to use for a fuse 22 latch switch.
I also was thinking of repurposing a second switch (possibly an unlabeled seat backrest recline or glovebox switch) as a momentary switch to replace the mute button on the remote display for my V1 Radar Locator. I would place both switches in the center console ahead of the center armrest.
Do you know if the glass and plastic versions of the switches are identical internally?
Molly, if no one else claims them, I will gladly accept any switches Rob replaces.
Cheers.
I also was thinking of repurposing a second switch (possibly an unlabeled seat backrest recline or glovebox switch) as a momentary switch to replace the mute button on the remote display for my V1 Radar Locator. I would place both switches in the center console ahead of the center armrest.
Do you know if the glass and plastic versions of the switches are identical internally?
Molly, if no one else claims them, I will gladly accept any switches Rob replaces.
Cheers.
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