Headlight Condensation
Discussion
JonnyCJ said:
Tried the Gorilla tape and whilst it will be fine when dry, any water or muck getting thrown about will quickly cause it to peel.
It therefore looks like silicone is the answer, unless anyone has another solution ?
I had some good experience with tape in similar places in the past.It therefore looks like silicone is the answer, unless anyone has another solution ?
Most important is thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing before the application.
Also, at low ambent temperatures, it helps to use a heat blower, as the glue on the tape sticks much better when warm.
I just bougth me a 70mm wide tape for the job, let's see how it works out...
However, its clear that it must be sealed, especially at the top.
Otherwise the leaking water might be sucked into the headlight by the fan.
TR-Spider said:
I had some good experience with tape in similar places in the past.
Most important is thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing before the application.
Also, at low ambent temperatures, it helps to use a heat blower, as the glue on the tape sticks much better when warm.
I just bougth me a 70mm wide tape for the job, let's see how it works out...
However, its clear that it must be sealed, especially at the top.
Otherwise the leaking water might be sucked into the headlight by the fan.
I've isolated the inlet fan with heavy guage pastic sheet, which also stops the air re-circulating from outlet to inlet.Most important is thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing before the application.
Also, at low ambent temperatures, it helps to use a heat blower, as the glue on the tape sticks much better when warm.
I just bougth me a 70mm wide tape for the job, let's see how it works out...
However, its clear that it must be sealed, especially at the top.
Otherwise the leaking water might be sucked into the headlight by the fan.
Will try the gorilla tape again and warm as suggested. I've APC'd the area thoroughly, but might give it another going over with some alchohol based cleaner and then water to leave as clean a surface as poss.
Hi Jonny,
That second barrier should certainly help. Road dirt and water always finds it's way in behind the covers.
As a sealing solution, would something like this help?
https://sealextrusions.com/products/tsec-111011700...
It depends on the radii and the 'bendability' of the extrusion, but such a question could be asked to the manufacturer.
I eventually got the DB9 out on Christmas day but discovered the fans running above 70degC was too high / too soon cut-off. Now at 40degC same as you but will still try and find the sweet spot. I don't know how long the fans run for when parked, but I'd guess from initial measurements taken at the start of the project to be about 2 hours!
Cheers,
Gav
That second barrier should certainly help. Road dirt and water always finds it's way in behind the covers.
As a sealing solution, would something like this help?
https://sealextrusions.com/products/tsec-111011700...
It depends on the radii and the 'bendability' of the extrusion, but such a question could be asked to the manufacturer.
I eventually got the DB9 out on Christmas day but discovered the fans running above 70degC was too high / too soon cut-off. Now at 40degC same as you but will still try and find the sweet spot. I don't know how long the fans run for when parked, but I'd guess from initial measurements taken at the start of the project to be about 2 hours!
Cheers,
Gav
NoGrip said:
I eventually got the DB9 out on Christmas day but discovered the fans running above 70degC was too high / too soon cut-off. Now at 40degC same as you but will still try and find the sweet spot. I don't know how long the fans run for when parked, but I'd guess from initial measurements taken at the start of the project to be about 2 hours!
Cheers,
Gav
It probably depends where your thermocouple / sensor is located.Cheers,
Gav
I do it the other way round: start with a high temprature setting.
After a drive, set a stopwatch and when the time you think is necessary is reached,
reduce the temperature setting until the fans cut out.
Then you have effectively adjusted the after-run time of the fans.
Managed to get my hatches sealed last night. Took TR’s advice and thoroughly cleaned the access panel and area around it. Then warmed everything with a heat gun and applied a few overlapping layers of Gorilla tape.
The tape stuck really well and I radiused the corners with a Stanley knife to reduce the risk of lifting.
Overall I’m very pleased with the result. Totally reversible and looks a lot better than a load of black silicone which doesn’t seem to stick that well anyway.
Home made headlight vent kit now finished and £370 saved by doing it myself.
The tape stuck really well and I radiused the corners with a Stanley knife to reduce the risk of lifting.
Overall I’m very pleased with the result. Totally reversible and looks a lot better than a load of black silicone which doesn’t seem to stick that well anyway.
Home made headlight vent kit now finished and £370 saved by doing it myself.
Hi all, I have one of the AM Upgrade venting kits, the reason is nothing on the car or its parts are cut, drilled or carved up, it is a tried and tested product, back up service too, you also have a new set of headlight caps so you can keep your old ones, good should you wish to move the venting kit to another car, sell it or just revert back.
You may ask why this is of value, I am now semi retired as of last year, my job was to revert cars back to their original condition if an owner decided to do a bit of DIY, fitting items such as additional lights, LED strips, huge sound speakers etc etc, things which are not in keeping with the marque and also such items are removed because they can not be included on a garage car warranty. I have worked for many prestigious car dealers and some of the things you guys have done would cause the garages to call me in and sort the rectification work or you will need to sort this yourself. You can not buy the head light caps on there own, you will have to pay for a new pair of lights (Or second hand set), fitting those LED controllers would all have to come off especially as they are constantly on causing a power drain, its all very “Heath Robinson’. Come on guys, we have an Aston Martin, an amazing and much admired car, lets do it right, buy a proper kit, I would not have to remove the one I have fitted, it even has a warranty and spares if required, just a recommendation which I hope will help you.
You may ask why this is of value, I am now semi retired as of last year, my job was to revert cars back to their original condition if an owner decided to do a bit of DIY, fitting items such as additional lights, LED strips, huge sound speakers etc etc, things which are not in keeping with the marque and also such items are removed because they can not be included on a garage car warranty. I have worked for many prestigious car dealers and some of the things you guys have done would cause the garages to call me in and sort the rectification work or you will need to sort this yourself. You can not buy the head light caps on there own, you will have to pay for a new pair of lights (Or second hand set), fitting those LED controllers would all have to come off especially as they are constantly on causing a power drain, its all very “Heath Robinson’. Come on guys, we have an Aston Martin, an amazing and much admired car, lets do it right, buy a proper kit, I would not have to remove the one I have fitted, it even has a warranty and spares if required, just a recommendation which I hope will help you.
Hi Mark - my ethos when doing this was that everything should be reversible.
The temperature controller simply unbolts and all wiring is bespoke, so no cutting into any looms etc.
You may say it’s Heath Robinson, however, if I stick a fancy sticker on a bag and type up some instructions on a sheet of A4 would you then say it’s more professional ?
My solution is more reversible than the £340 version, I could put it back to stock in literally 20 mins if you were to stick a stopwatch on me. There’s no messy silicone sealant, which won’t adequately seal on the plastic and my solution allows for much easier access to the lights.
Replacement rear light cases are approx £40 per side.
In addition, there’s no constant power drain to speak of. The fans operate at a given temperature range, so are only on for approx 15 mins after switch off. The LED output is negligible when the fans aren’t operating and the unit can be switched off at any point.
If you wanted to pop round and see my solution I’m sure you’d realise that it’s been correctly designed, installed and thought through. As for spares, I bought all the bits myself and can replicate any bit for little cost, with no overheads, profit margin, or advertising.
Gav is a design engineer and I’m a perfectionist.
I just like saving money where I can and spending it on more important things.
If you’re happy paying £300+ or so to get exactly the same solution as me then I’m very pleased for you.
The temperature controller simply unbolts and all wiring is bespoke, so no cutting into any looms etc.
You may say it’s Heath Robinson, however, if I stick a fancy sticker on a bag and type up some instructions on a sheet of A4 would you then say it’s more professional ?
My solution is more reversible than the £340 version, I could put it back to stock in literally 20 mins if you were to stick a stopwatch on me. There’s no messy silicone sealant, which won’t adequately seal on the plastic and my solution allows for much easier access to the lights.
Replacement rear light cases are approx £40 per side.
In addition, there’s no constant power drain to speak of. The fans operate at a given temperature range, so are only on for approx 15 mins after switch off. The LED output is negligible when the fans aren’t operating and the unit can be switched off at any point.
If you wanted to pop round and see my solution I’m sure you’d realise that it’s been correctly designed, installed and thought through. As for spares, I bought all the bits myself and can replicate any bit for little cost, with no overheads, profit margin, or advertising.
Gav is a design engineer and I’m a perfectionist.
I just like saving money where I can and spending it on more important things.
If you’re happy paying £300+ or so to get exactly the same solution as me then I’m very pleased for you.
Edited by JonnyCJ on Thursday 30th January 20:45
Edited by JonnyCJ on Thursday 30th January 21:04
Hi Mark,
Indeed, we all have our individual finances and have the power to decide what we deem fit for our own cars. In my own opinion, I would not refer to Jonny’s or my own vent kits as ‘Heath Robinson’. I have no interest in supplying kits as this is AM Upgrades business and a good kit I am sure, but maybe if I supplied it under my own company’s design and manufacturing umbrella then it would be a little less ‘Heath Robinson’? It’s the same with the remote control exhaust valve kit: I can purchase exactly same components and create wired connections for a fraction of the kit price. I personally have no need for one, but it is important that such innovators are supported and these good products will sell themselves. I just like to make my own products.
You stated earlier in this thread that you are not a practical person. I thought sharing a solution to a problem that could be done in simple steps at home would add value this forum, especially in the case of the DB9 headlights as no kit is available. That is why I made my own kit.
As for reverting back, no problem! Four new bungs at £5 will do the job, but I will not be removing as it has solved my problem 100%, caused by a poorly manufactured OE component. Resale value does not concern me and I will not be selling the DB9. If I ever get bored of it or it self-detonates, I will push it into the shed along with all my other previous cars and it can sit.
Come on, I haven’t been on this forum long and I haven’t had to do much to the Aston yet, but I do intend to share knowledge on this forum. This is what it is all about. Forums are made up mostly of members wanting share knowledge for the benefit of others and also places to learn. I will not dis anybody’s efforts and I have great admiration for positive people who enjoy problem solving.
Gav
Indeed, we all have our individual finances and have the power to decide what we deem fit for our own cars. In my own opinion, I would not refer to Jonny’s or my own vent kits as ‘Heath Robinson’. I have no interest in supplying kits as this is AM Upgrades business and a good kit I am sure, but maybe if I supplied it under my own company’s design and manufacturing umbrella then it would be a little less ‘Heath Robinson’? It’s the same with the remote control exhaust valve kit: I can purchase exactly same components and create wired connections for a fraction of the kit price. I personally have no need for one, but it is important that such innovators are supported and these good products will sell themselves. I just like to make my own products.
You stated earlier in this thread that you are not a practical person. I thought sharing a solution to a problem that could be done in simple steps at home would add value this forum, especially in the case of the DB9 headlights as no kit is available. That is why I made my own kit.
As for reverting back, no problem! Four new bungs at £5 will do the job, but I will not be removing as it has solved my problem 100%, caused by a poorly manufactured OE component. Resale value does not concern me and I will not be selling the DB9. If I ever get bored of it or it self-detonates, I will push it into the shed along with all my other previous cars and it can sit.
Come on, I haven’t been on this forum long and I haven’t had to do much to the Aston yet, but I do intend to share knowledge on this forum. This is what it is all about. Forums are made up mostly of members wanting share knowledge for the benefit of others and also places to learn. I will not dis anybody’s efforts and I have great admiration for positive people who enjoy problem solving.
Gav
Edited by NoGrip on Sunday 2nd February 16:05
TR-Spider said:
If one used silicone to seal the hatch means the hatch is glued onto the liner, what if a bulb breaks in the future?
Remove the whole liner to replace the bulb?
Hi guys, this is not a bonding silicon, this particular sealant will seal while applied and cures but due to the ABS plastic, the wheel arch cover will peel away with no problem if required leaving a clean surface, it’s a bit like a “liquid gasket”, it fills the gap to seal but can peel away if required. Remove the whole liner to replace the bulb?
TR-Spider said:
Thanks, that is good information - will the silicone stay as one re-usable piece or do you have to re-seal after opening?
Hi TR Spider, no you will need to reseal, if you need to remove it, it peels off with no need to scratch/scrape. If you cut with a stanley blade along a joint, it could be salvageable. The good thing is you can purchase it from B&M stores or Toolstation, you could use clear if required.Sad to say, I had to sell the V8 Vantage, happy to say I have just bought another one, I love them, I bought her 4 weeks ago, instantly on the following morning, went for a drive, the headlights started to mist. Stupidly I left the venting kit on the other Vantage however, the purchaser was pleased to see mist free headlights and said two other Vantages he looked at put him off. So I bought another kit from AM Upgrades which arrived last week, fitted it on the weekend, mist/condensation gone, the whole kit complete with the £35 refund offer for the existing caps came to £252, what a winner. I wouldn’t bother making a kit, its not worth the time, this one includes push together weather proof connections, everything just clips together, a water shield for the fans (That is a must as it will help stop water getting into the light unit) and quick to install, everything you need to complete the job. Next job, a sport exhaust ready for Simply Aston show. I hope you all enjoy your Astons.
I tried the "drill holes & goretex patch" option before xmas, cost £10 for some goretex patches off amazon. So far its been much improved, i dont drive daily over winter but have been making a mental note every time I check the headlights. Some days ive still seen small amounts of condensation which has cleared when Ive actually driven the car (lights are always on)
Will continue to monitor, might be good enough, particularly when we get into Spring and the weather warms up a bit......
Will continue to monitor, might be good enough, particularly when we get into Spring and the weather warms up a bit......
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