V8v rear subframe

[Dungman]

Great write-up.

May I ask what you had to disconnect to allow the transaxle to drop far enough for the subframe to pass over it? I see other posts mention releasing gear selectors and engine mounts.

Many thanks

[JonnyCJ]

Yep - gear selector cables x 2 and hydro mounts, one each side of the transaxle. Like anything in life, if you break it down into bite sized chunks it's all do-able. It just seems very daunting at the start.

[Dungman]

Thanks. All quite enjoyable so far. Tackling the transaxle tomorrow 👍

[JonnyCJ]

Good man - shout if you get stuck !

One thing worth looking into whilst it’s off the road is getting the oil cooler pipes replaced with stainless. You need 13mm stainless tube (from memory but check your existing diameter), your old ones as a template and someone near you who can bend stainless pipe.

I used Morrison’s Gas Related Products in Liverpool. I’m sure you can post the existing to them if you can’t find a local bod. You’ll also need to retain the connectors at either end, which are on a flexi rubber pipe. To connect these to your shiny new stainless pipes you will need some stainless nuts and olives. It all sounds a bit confusing, but if you Google your local Pirtek outlet, they can supply what you need for little cost and fit it all together. Just take along the new pipes and existing ones and tell them what you want.

I think it cost me £100 all in, to get two new stainless pipes with all fittings, to replace the existing corroded ones.

If any other hard pipes on the car ever need replacing, such as air con etc. I’ll do exactly the same. Oil cooler pipes are approx £650 new and zinc plated mild steel, so will again corrode over time.

Alternatively, take your old pipes off and get them cleaned and re-zinc plated. They’ll come up like new as long as there’s not too much pitting and there’s no need to dismantle anything as it can all go into the cleaning and zinc plating tanks. Probably £25-£30 to get that done.

The zinc doesn’t stick to the rubber and the cleaning chemicals don’t affect it.

Good luck !

[Dungman]

JonnyCJ said:

Good man - shout if you get stuck !

One thing worth looking into whilst it’s off the road is getting the oil cooler pipes replaced with stainless. You need 13mm stainless tube (from memory but check your existing diameter), your old ones as a template and someone near you who can bend stainless pipe.

I used Morrison’s Gas Related Products in Liverpool. I’m sure you can post the existing to them if you can’t find a local bod. You’ll also need to retain the connectors at either end, which are on a flexi rubber pipe. To connect these to your shiny new stainless pipes you will need some stainless nuts and olives. It all sounds a bit confusing, but if you Google your local Pirtek outlet, they can supply what you need for little cost and fit it all together. Just take along the new pipes and existing ones and tell them what you want.

I think it cost me £100 all in, to get two new stainless pipes with all fittings, to replace the existing corroded ones.

If any other hard pipes on the car ever need replacing, such as air con etc. I’ll do exactly the same. Oil cooler pipes are approx £650 new and zinc plated mild steel, so will again corrode over time.

Alternatively, take your old pipes off and get them cleaned and re-zinc plated. They’ll come up like new as long as there’s not too much pitting and there’s no need to dismantle anything as it can all go into the cleaning and zinc plating tanks. Probably £25-£30 to get that done.

The zinc doesn’t stick to the rubber and the cleaning chemicals don’t affect it.

Good luck !

Thanks will do.

The pipes all look good but i'll decide once everything is off. I have a Pirtek nearby and use them regularly.

[JonnyCJ]

Only thing to ensure is that you don't get cross contamination of metals. Stainless olives and nuts at the stainless steel pipe end onto a stainless male on the rubber pipe. BZP mild steel nuts and olives onto the existing mild steel tails. Hopefully that will eliminate any galvanic corrosion.

I also put some nickel grease onto the oil cooler threads to ensure that the nuts come off easily in future. BigMig had to replace his cooler and pipes due to the nuts being welded on.

If you use Pirtek I'm sure you know all that, but may be useful for those that aren't as savvy.

[Dungman]

So silencer and handbrake cables off today. The little white plastic clips that hold the handbrake cable tight to the subframe were very awkward!

How did you go about disconnecting the wiring loom? I see you mention connections under the drivers seat, is that inside the car requiring seat removal?

[BigMig]

[quote=

I also put some nickel grease onto the oil cooler threads to ensure that the nuts come off easily in future. BigMig had to replace his cooler and pipes due to the nuts being welded on..
[/quote]

Leave my nuts out of it Jonny

The driver's seat only needs to come out if you're planning on replacing the handbrake cable.

If I remember correctly the wiring harness on the subframe should be just disconnected in the drivers side wheel arch. There is also a connector on the top of the gearbox for the reversing light switch, if you don't disconnect this you run the risk of snapping the wire when you lower the transaxle.

[JonnyCJ]

Once you’ve done the rear you can have a go at the front

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[Dungman]

Thanks folks.

Yep front is next on the list!

[Dungman]

JonnyCJ said:

New wheel bearings drying off in the baking heat after being treated with XCP Rust Blocker.

Awaiting the knuckles back from Hunter Steel sometime next week (hooray for couriers !) and then the new discs and pads etc can all get bolted back on and we’re pretty much there.

Sorry another question!

Did you reuse your old CV boots or have you found a source of replacements? Seems the genuine ones are only available with the complete half shift?

[JonnyCJ]

Old boots were fine - I'm pretty sure AM will have used an off the shelf part, so you just need the internal diameters at both ends of the boot and you can have a search from there. Do post up on the alternative parts thread when you come up with the solution !

[Dungman]

Well it’s finally out. Big thanks to all contributors to this thread and in particular JonnyCJ for his advice.

My car is a 2006 with 40k. Doesn’t look to bad in the photos but there is surface rust all over. I imagine this will soon become a common refurb and a must check before purchase.

[paulrog1]

Dungman said:

Well it’s finally out. Big thanks to all contributors to this thread and in particular JonnyCJ for his advice.

My car is a 2006 with 40k. Doesn’t look to bad in the photos but there is surface rust all over. I imagine this will soon become a common refurb and a must check before purchase.

Well done you for having a go and removing the subframe, quite straightforward when taken in small steps.

What i found was the huge amount of corroded bolts etc which needed replacing

Let us know how you get on.

[JonnyCJ]

Dungman said:

Well it’s finally out. Big thanks to all contributors to this thread and in particular JonnyCJ for his advice.

My car is a 2006 with 40k. Doesn’t look to bad in the photos but there is surface rust all over. I imagine this will soon become a common refurb and a must check before purchase.

How’s it coming along Gav ? Need another subframe refurb thread update, for the subframe pervs, now that Paul’s finished his DB9 !

[Murph7355]

BigMig said:

...

I think this whole subframe issue is a timebomb waiting to hit any Vantage and DB9 owners who regularly use their cars in regions where road salt is used. Piss poor corrosion protection at the factory.

....

Very interesting thread and hats off to the guys tackling this. I noticed the same on mine when I traded it in (over 4yrs ago now).

The above is spot on. I very much loved my Vantage, but piss poor protection and painting (the bubbling on the bodywork is demonstrative of no clue how to deal with cars with different metals IMO in the same way the underside is, and also general lack of care on basic protection techniques) was by far the biggest weakness of this age of Aston and in this day and age there really is no excuse for it. Especially on such a supposedly premium product.

I really hope they have improved matters significantly on their new line of cars.

[Squaremeal]

Murph7355 said:

Very interesting thread and hats off to the guys tackling this. I noticed the same on mine when I traded it in (over 4yrs ago now).

The above is spot on. I very much loved my Vantage, but piss poor protection and painting (the bubbling on the bodywork is demonstrative of no clue how to deal with cars with different metals IMO in the same way the underside is, and also general lack of care on basic protection techniques) was by far the biggest weakness of this age of Aston and in this day and age there really is no excuse for it. Especially on such a supposedly premium product.

I really hope they have improved matters significantly on their new line of cars.

I really think it will turn into an issue - you just have to look at the awful problems classic Vanquish has in this department....

[Dungman]

JonnyCJ said:

How’s it coming along Gav ? Need another subframe refurb thread update, for the subframe pervs, now that Paul’s finished his DB9 !

Slow progress Jonny unfortunately. Suspension arms cleaned and looking good, as above. Still waiting to get the subframe back. Was due to collect tomorrow but we’re under a foot of snow so will need to push it back a bit.

[JonnyCJ]

Picking the subframe up is a joy, especially when you compare before and after.

[Dungman]

Right some subframe and suspension porn. All look better than new.

Subframe has been zinc coated then epoxy painted. Not sure exactly how the arms were cleaned as the place that did it (Xiom Scotland, based in Forfar) said it was a ‘trade secret’.