V8v rear subframe
Discussion
tuscrv8 said:
So now got the car up on jack stands and had a good look at subframe. Lot of surface rust but nothing bad.
Plan is to do a section at a time give it a wire brushing and a coat of por-15 then a coat of acf50 or wax oils.
Only me opinion, but unless you have a well-heated garage would it be better to leave the above until the weather improves?Plan is to do a section at a time give it a wire brushing and a coat of por-15 then a coat of acf50 or wax oils.
From my experience, if the subframe looks like the one above then there'll be lots of other parts of the frame in similar or worse condition and getting access to those regions just wont be possible with it in-situ. At the very least you'll need to strip off all the anciallary items such as brake lines, wiring harness and ideally most of the suspension arms. Otherwise you'll not get to the rust with a wire brush and will miss lots of bits with the coating.
As I've mentioned on another thread there are also other bits worth looking at while you're at the job, such as the transmission oil cooler pipes for which you need to remove the rear silencer to access, and the handbrake cable adjusters which can seize up unless they've been regularly greased up.
I think this whole subframe issue is a timebomb waiting to hit any Vantage and DB9 owners who regularly use their cars in regions where road salt is used. Piss poor corrosion protection at the factory.
Treating in-situ will certainly help, but IMHI unless it's a thorough job it's just papering over the cracks for another 12months. But then the alternative of dissassembly, shot blast and powder coat, reassembly will probably land a simialr sized bill to the Vanquish front subframe issue (£8k to £10k), seems AML learnt nothing from that.
As I've mentioned on another thread there are also other bits worth looking at while you're at the job, such as the transmission oil cooler pipes for which you need to remove the rear silencer to access, and the handbrake cable adjusters which can seize up unless they've been regularly greased up.
I think this whole subframe issue is a timebomb waiting to hit any Vantage and DB9 owners who regularly use their cars in regions where road salt is used. Piss poor corrosion protection at the factory.
Treating in-situ will certainly help, but IMHI unless it's a thorough job it's just papering over the cracks for another 12months. But then the alternative of dissassembly, shot blast and powder coat, reassembly will probably land a simialr sized bill to the Vanquish front subframe issue (£8k to £10k), seems AML learnt nothing from that.
Getting and Indy to remove and replace is approx. 8-10hrs work.
Blasting and powder coating is probably £40-£50
You’re looking at around £1k all in, but depends on whether you want to do it yourself if you’re handy, or get someone else to.
I’m going to tackle it myself in the same way BigMig has, as it’ll give me the opportunity to check/replace anything else under there that needs attention.
Blasting and powder coating is probably £40-£50
You’re looking at around £1k all in, but depends on whether you want to do it yourself if you’re handy, or get someone else to.
I’m going to tackle it myself in the same way BigMig has, as it’ll give me the opportunity to check/replace anything else under there that needs attention.
A big job Jonny.
In view of the effort involved, what did you think about the PHers earlier suggestion, to have it galvanised?
A much longer lasting protection and could then apply the top coat of your choice.
I used to regularly see lorries in the Midlands, taking dustbins and metal tanks to be galvanised.
Indeedy - galvanising has crossed my mind, as has yellow zinc plating, then powder coating.
Need to get underneath and strip everything off first, so will await the MOT on Thursday and then get under and have a look at what’s involved.
The manual should be arriving today as well, which will be an interesting bedtime read.
Need to get underneath and strip everything off first, so will await the MOT on Thursday and then get under and have a look at what’s involved.
The manual should be arriving today as well, which will be an interesting bedtime read.
Well had an hour or so wire brushing and I agree with bigmig . It would be a better job to remove everything and get it sand blasted etc.
But the frame is far better than I had thought with rust in just a few places . I am doing one side at a time removed wheel and inner wing so access is not to bad . Reckon I can get to about 85% of frame after I will get a coat of por15 where I can and then give it a coat of wax oil hopefully getting the areas I can’t. You know what they say prevention is better than cure
But the frame is far better than I had thought with rust in just a few places . I am doing one side at a time removed wheel and inner wing so access is not to bad . Reckon I can get to about 85% of frame after I will get a coat of por15 where I can and then give it a coat of wax oil hopefully getting the areas I can’t. You know what they say prevention is better than cure
Had 5 mins today to get the rear diffuser off. There’s 4 bolts that go through the bottom of the parking sensor brackets and then into a plate with captive nuts.
Amazed that yet again the plate was coated in surface rust and the parking sensor brackets were corroded.
What were you thinking at the factory AML ? This really is shoddy.
Totally convinced that a full strip down is the only way to go. Whilst my underside is actually in pretty good nick, fast forward 10-15 years and there’s a lot of stuff under there that will need totally replacing, assuming of course that bolts don’t shear due to being corroded in place etc.
Amazed that yet again the plate was coated in surface rust and the parking sensor brackets were corroded.
What were you thinking at the factory AML ? This really is shoddy.
Totally convinced that a full strip down is the only way to go. Whilst my underside is actually in pretty good nick, fast forward 10-15 years and there’s a lot of stuff under there that will need totally replacing, assuming of course that bolts don’t shear due to being corroded in place etc.
Launched in with both feet today. My ethos with this is to take it slowly, not set an end date and do it properly.
So far I’ve got the car jacked up front and rear and on axle stands at the jacking points with the rubber mounts.
Rear wheel arch liners are out and the rear bumper off.
So far I’ve encountered rusty clips on the wheel arch liners, corroded parking sensor brackets, lightly rusted rear grilles, rusty nuts and washers on the exhaust tips and rusty clips that mount the bumper to the body.
Really glad I’m taking it all apart. Anything rusty or corroded will get sorted or replaced to better than factory standard.
Haven’t got near the suspension/subframe yet, but can see various black painted brackets showing signs of light surface rust that’ll be in the list for blasting and powder coating.
Here’s the state of the nation so far...
So far I’ve got the car jacked up front and rear and on axle stands at the jacking points with the rubber mounts.
Rear wheel arch liners are out and the rear bumper off.
So far I’ve encountered rusty clips on the wheel arch liners, corroded parking sensor brackets, lightly rusted rear grilles, rusty nuts and washers on the exhaust tips and rusty clips that mount the bumper to the body.
Really glad I’m taking it all apart. Anything rusty or corroded will get sorted or replaced to better than factory standard.
Haven’t got near the suspension/subframe yet, but can see various black painted brackets showing signs of light surface rust that’ll be in the list for blasting and powder coating.
Here’s the state of the nation so far...
Tuscrv8, JonnyCJ and SHIFTY,
How much winter/salt have your cars seen? Not that they should be corroded if they've seen salt, but... SHIFTY, I ask in part because your car is only 3 years old with 9k miles. I last got a good look at mine (2009 V8V with 12,600 miles) on a lift last year, and it looked brand new underneath. It's never seen salt.
How much winter/salt have your cars seen? Not that they should be corroded if they've seen salt, but... SHIFTY, I ask in part because your car is only 3 years old with 9k miles. I last got a good look at mine (2009 V8V with 12,600 miles) on a lift last year, and it looked brand new underneath. It's never seen salt.
Speedraser said:
Tuscrv8, JonnyCJ and SHIFTY,
How much winter/salt have your cars seen? Not that they should be corroded if they've seen salt, but... SHIFTY, I ask in part because your car is only 3 years old with 9k miles. I last got a good look at mine (2009 V8V with 12,600 miles) on a lift last year, and it looked brand new underneath. It's never seen salt.
I'd say UK climate is pretty agressive on cars, if you're using them all year round, certainly in the North where there's salt on the roads for 3 to 4 months of the year. SHIFTY's car didn't look bad at all but you can see how these things start and if not attended to will only go in one direction. How much winter/salt have your cars seen? Not that they should be corroded if they've seen salt, but... SHIFTY, I ask in part because your car is only 3 years old with 9k miles. I last got a good look at mine (2009 V8V with 12,600 miles) on a lift last year, and it looked brand new underneath. It's never seen salt.
Mine is also a 2009 V8V and has now clocked up just over 70,000miles and has been used all year round. It was a fair bit worse than JonnyCJ's before I did the strip down and re-build that he's now on with. Worryingly whenever it was serviced the garages all said it was in good condition, so they must have seen worse than this .
Now looks a fair bit better
I bought the car with 8,000 miles/3 years old so cannot vouch if it had ever seen salt.
The rear sub frame only had surface rust and this was all around the welded on items, brushed off quite easily repainted then waxed all over.
With all of the problems AM had with corrosion on the DB7 front sub frame you would have thought by now that AM would have included some protection on later models
The rear sub frame only had surface rust and this was all around the welded on items, brushed off quite easily repainted then waxed all over.
With all of the problems AM had with corrosion on the DB7 front sub frame you would have thought by now that AM would have included some protection on later models
Jonny, it would be interesting to know at which points you jacked the car up before putting the axle stands under the correct - so I assume - jacking spots.
Keep up this documentation - great thread!
BigMig - wow, indeed what a renewal. Must have afforded lots of new smaller parts/fixings.
Keep up this documentation - great thread!
BigMig - wow, indeed what a renewal. Must have afforded lots of new smaller parts/fixings.
cornershop said:
Collecting my 2010 V12V on Saturday.
Asked the salesman (HWM) if there was anything rust wise I need to look out for underneath.
No came the reply, it’s all aluminium under there....
That's fantastic reply from the dealer, Clueless!!!Asked the salesman (HWM) if there was anything rust wise I need to look out for underneath.
No came the reply, it’s all aluminium under there....
This issue is going to get worse as the cars get older, doing the job at home is a major undertaking so I suppose the indy's will get the work.
cornershop said:
Collecting my 2010 V12V on Saturday.
Asked the salesman (HWM) if there was anything rust wise I need to look out for underneath.
No came the reply, it’s all aluminium under there....
I’d get something in writing - if the oil cooler and pipes need replacing you’re into £700+ Asked the salesman (HWM) if there was anything rust wise I need to look out for underneath.
No came the reply, it’s all aluminium under there....
Maybe get them to get it on a ramp pre sale, remove the rear under tray and take a few pics.
BigMig had to do the oil cooler on his due to galvanic corrosion. Mine looks to be fine.
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