V8v rear subframe
Discussion
JonnyCJ said:
cornershop said:
Collecting my 2010 V12V on Saturday.
Asked the salesman (HWM) if there was anything rust wise I need to look out for underneath.
No came the reply, it’s all aluminium under there....
I’d get something in writing - if the oil cooler and pipes need replacing you’re into £700+ Asked the salesman (HWM) if there was anything rust wise I need to look out for underneath.
No came the reply, it’s all aluminium under there....
Maybe get them to get it on a ramp pre sale, remove the rear under tray and take a few pics.
BigMig had to do the oil cooler on his due to galvanic corrosion. Mine looks to be fine.
I’m going to get the following done as a temporary solution, will call them today:
https://www.hwm.co.uk/service/acf50/
https://www.hwm.co.uk/service/acf50/
My Vanquish had the 140-point check from the AM dealer although it was a Volante inspection stated it was a Coupe roof check was N/A, went back after 4 weeks for 4 new shock absorbers and a timing chain gasket replaced.
Covered by the AM Timeless warranty as if corrected before sale it would have cost the dealer money to fix. Identified by an independent inspection and well worth the money,
AM should be looking at this as heard some real horror stories regarding after sales and lack of inspections.
Covered by the AM Timeless warranty as if corrected before sale it would have cost the dealer money to fix. Identified by an independent inspection and well worth the money,
AM should be looking at this as heard some real horror stories regarding after sales and lack of inspections.
JonnyCJ said:
Sounds like a plan - unless this has been done every couple of years there will be surface rust.
Get them to chuck it in as a freebie. £15 for a can of ACF and max 2hrs for a trainee, so the cost to them is negligible in the scale of things.
Agree to an extent, although for a relatively important piece of work, I don’t want them to feel less ‘motivated’ at being asked to do it for free. At £180, it’s not expensive enough for me to low ball them.Get them to chuck it in as a freebie. £15 for a can of ACF and max 2hrs for a trainee, so the cost to them is negligible in the scale of things.
I’ve insisted on before and after photographs too, no complaints from Sales team re this.
cornershop said:
I’m going to get the following done as a temporary solution, will call them today:
https://www.hwm.co.uk/service/acf50/
Make sure they remove the rear under tray!https://www.hwm.co.uk/service/acf50/
Sorry for going off topic for a second, but I wonder if anybody ever has taken a look into the cavities (eg. doors, sills) with an endoscope? Are they accessible? Is there any corrosion protection in there from the factory? Or no action required as it´s aluminium? I´ve never read anything about this in all those years.
So, similar to previous pics I would say. The ACF50 will just be a temporary solution, however I’d be interested to see what the rust looks like in say 6 months time as a gauge of its rust killing properties.
I would normally use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 but you need to avoid rubber/plastics in the curing phase, according to Bilt Hamber.
Before:
After:
I would normally use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 but you need to avoid rubber/plastics in the curing phase, according to Bilt Hamber.
Before:
After:
milu said:
Where did you guys jack up from if the axle stands are on the jack points?
Cheers
This should helpCheers
https://www.redpants.lol/how-to-get-the-car-on-jac...
A few more pics of what’s going on underneath on a 30,000 mile 2009.
Basically, anything mild steel will be rusting away, oil cooler pipes will be corroding and the subframe will have internal and external surface rust.
How much of this is a problem saving itself up for a rainy day I’m not sure, but I’ve decided to bite the bullet and sort it all out in one go.
First pic is the silencer rubber hanger which sits on top of the subframe. These are pretty much shot from a metal point of view.
Basically, anything mild steel will be rusting away, oil cooler pipes will be corroding and the subframe will have internal and external surface rust.
How much of this is a problem saving itself up for a rainy day I’m not sure, but I’ve decided to bite the bullet and sort it all out in one go.
First pic is the silencer rubber hanger which sits on top of the subframe. These are pretty much shot from a metal point of view.
To reiterate previous posts - take a look at the steel subframe and be prepared for it to look a bit scabby. I got a look while the car was up on a lift at the last service. This is on a 2010 V8V with 43k miles. It's been used all year round so has seen some salt. It's all light surface corrosion but quite extensive and not going to get any better - there's no 'helpful' oil leaks unlike my old MG.
Photos show the before as found with the underbody and wheel-arch liners off. I've managed to get to most of the frame using a small wire brush and quite a lot of contortions to reach up, through, round and under all the various suspension and other components. The follow-up has been a thorough de-grease, metal prep and then a couple of coats of POR15 chassis paint. A small brush and again plenty of contortions to get to every visible surface. Finally, a coat over with ACF50 including a lance to spray inside the longitudinal tubes. The ACF smells quite nice and makes everything very shiny. Just the ARB and crossbrace to refit and hopefully good for another 10 years.
It's been a bit tedious but shouldn't need to be done again. I'm sure removing the subframe completely would of course have allowed a better job but I think this is a very good second-best.
Before
After
Photos show the before as found with the underbody and wheel-arch liners off. I've managed to get to most of the frame using a small wire brush and quite a lot of contortions to reach up, through, round and under all the various suspension and other components. The follow-up has been a thorough de-grease, metal prep and then a couple of coats of POR15 chassis paint. A small brush and again plenty of contortions to get to every visible surface. Finally, a coat over with ACF50 including a lance to spray inside the longitudinal tubes. The ACF smells quite nice and makes everything very shiny. Just the ARB and crossbrace to refit and hopefully good for another 10 years.
It's been a bit tedious but shouldn't need to be done again. I'm sure removing the subframe completely would of course have allowed a better job but I think this is a very good second-best.
Before
After
SHIFTY said:
My Vanquish had the 140-point check from the AM dealer although it was a Volante inspection stated it was a Coupe roof check was N/A, went back after 4 weeks for 4 new shock absorbers and a timing chain gasket replaced.
Covered by the AM Timeless warranty as if corrected before sale it would have cost the dealer money to fix. Identified by an independent inspection and well worth the money,
AM should be looking at this as heard some real horror stories regarding after sales and lack of inspections.
Do they even check the car i wonder?Covered by the AM Timeless warranty as if corrected before sale it would have cost the dealer money to fix. Identified by an independent inspection and well worth the money,
AM should be looking at this as heard some real horror stories regarding after sales and lack of inspections.
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