V8v rear subframe
Discussion
Bit of adjustment possible on the subframe. You need to use a sharpie to mark the position of the front aluminium bushes where they touch the underside of the body shell and then refit to the same marks.
If the fronts are correct so will be everything else.
If the fronts are correct so will be everything else.
Edited by JonnyCJ on Wednesday 1st April 09:14
Some suspension bits trial fitted this evening, mainly to get all the correct bolts and nuts in the right places.
In the pic we have upper and lower wishbones, toe control arm (effectively a track rod), shock absorber and spring.
If it weren’t for the fact that “Curse of Oak Island” was on History channel I’d be carrying on !
In the pic we have upper and lower wishbones, toe control arm (effectively a track rod), shock absorber and spring.
If it weren’t for the fact that “Curse of Oak Island” was on History channel I’d be carrying on !
Better hopefully. There was little thought for preventative maintenance when the cars were originally built, therefore I’m building this in to my subframe restoration. Zinc plating to nuts and bolts, cavity rust proofing and a proper coating on the subframe rather than thin powder coat.
BigMig said:
Hi Jonny
What was the product you used to protect the aluminium components? and do you think it will last following repeated road grime / car wash cycles? I put ACF50 on mine but suspect this protection will just wash off once I use the under chassis pressure washer.
Hi James - I used XCP Rust Blocker. A bit like waxoyl but goes on in a fine mist and dries to a nice soft feel. I used two coats initially with a gentle wipe off of the excess and these dried pretty quickly to a non tacky finish. I then did a heavier final coat which has taken a while to dry and is still slightly tacky in places.What was the product you used to protect the aluminium components? and do you think it will last following repeated road grime / car wash cycles? I put ACF50 on mine but suspect this protection will just wash off once I use the under chassis pressure washer.
In hindsight I’d have gone with multiple coats with a wipe off of excess in between each one.
Have a google and watch the time lapse vids on the various treatments available comparison.
Pretty sure it should last a while. I’m also spraying all exposed nuts and bolts with it once fitted. Will pop a light dab of zinc grease on as well to be double sure.
If it wasn’t for you I wouldn’t have had the confidence to have a go and your assistance has been invaluable. Many thanks !
Edited by JonnyCJ on Thursday 2nd April 12:42
Re-fitted the parking sensor brackets and rear grilles this evening. Everything has been blasted and powder coated as there was a lot of corrosion on the brackets (aluminium) and grilles (expanded steel). Also put rust blocker on all parts where they touched another part, including the bolts and torx screws.
There is a small amount of adjustment on the brackets and grilles and it’s important to ensure that you take the time to fit them so that there’s no touching of grille on bracket. That would result in scratching through the powder coat and letting corrosion back in.
Bracket before cleaning up showing where the grille touched causing corrosion
There is a small amount of adjustment on the brackets and grilles and it’s important to ensure that you take the time to fit them so that there’s no touching of grille on bracket. That would result in scratching through the powder coat and letting corrosion back in.
Bracket before cleaning up showing where the grille touched causing corrosion
Edited by JonnyCJ on Tuesday 7th April 21:38
Knuckle and brake back plates back from Hunter Steel. I’ve given the knuckles a couple of coats of XCP Rust Blocker and painted the backing plates in black outdoor metal paint.
Assembled these and the new bearing/hub assemblies together with the cleaned up ABS sensors, which is the black thing sticking out of the middle of the circle.
When taking all this apart it wasn’t assembled with any anti-seize agent, so my good old tin of nickel grease came out to play.
Then decided I’d done enough cleaning and protection and decided to assemble the hubs/suspension/new discs.
Both sides done and the nuts and bolts nipped up for now. All suspension bits need to be torqued up with a full fuel tank and 37.5kg of weight on the front seats.
I’d been wondering how to get this and have ended up scavenging old plastic milk bottles. 1 litre of water weighs 1kg so it’s easy to work out. The old discs are being replaced front and rear and they weight 21lbs each on average, so can go in the boot as ballast.
Next step is the fully rebuilt rear calipers, but just waiting on the new caliper pistons and seals to arrive and some light machining on the 36mm pistons to take them down 1.5mm.
Getting there....
Assembled these and the new bearing/hub assemblies together with the cleaned up ABS sensors, which is the black thing sticking out of the middle of the circle.
When taking all this apart it wasn’t assembled with any anti-seize agent, so my good old tin of nickel grease came out to play.
Then decided I’d done enough cleaning and protection and decided to assemble the hubs/suspension/new discs.
Both sides done and the nuts and bolts nipped up for now. All suspension bits need to be torqued up with a full fuel tank and 37.5kg of weight on the front seats.
I’d been wondering how to get this and have ended up scavenging old plastic milk bottles. 1 litre of water weighs 1kg so it’s easy to work out. The old discs are being replaced front and rear and they weight 21lbs each on average, so can go in the boot as ballast.
Next step is the fully rebuilt rear calipers, but just waiting on the new caliper pistons and seals to arrive and some light machining on the 36mm pistons to take them down 1.5mm.
Getting there....
Edited by JonnyCJ on Sunday 26th April 20:14
Edited by JonnyCJ on Monday 27th April 09:39
8Speed said:
Done by CSP Specialists (highly recommended) near T/Wells.
Owner Alex has his own V8V & knows what he's doing (safer pair of hands than mine). I'm not as skilful as Jonnycj !
How much does it cost to have this done? I’m not too far from Twells and am a bit lacking in the skills department!Owner Alex has his own V8V & knows what he's doing (safer pair of hands than mine). I'm not as skilful as Jonnycj !
dlgis said:
How much does it cost to have this done? I’m not too far from Twells and am a bit lacking in the skills department!
Give Alex at CSP a call for a quote.I had it done with other brake work, etc and had a very reasonable bill for everything.
No personal connection with them, just satisfied with the service.
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