Lightweight battery

Lightweight battery

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Discussion

drac

354 posts

223 months

Wednesday 26th August 2020
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Guys you are not comparing apples to apples.

The deadweight battery is 60Ah PbEq. This is lead equivalent. Lead acid are only useful for the first 1/3 of there charge. After this the voltage drops to low to do the job.

LiFepo4 doesn’t have these issues and can maintain its output voltage right up to the last few percent. I’ve ran a lithiumax one of these in my Elise for years but have not been brave enough to put one in my Vantage.

The itech one has a real usable 60Ah hence it’s weight and CCa (according to the website. I’ve never seen this kind of size for this cost. )

Few issues with them. They can be sensitive to the cold and if flat should not be connected with another battery for jump starting. (Last one only lasted 3.5 years but I constantly let it go too flat because car is toy and I jump started it like I was not meant too. )

If you can find one with the restart option that is cool. They disconnect the circuit when down to the last 10% and require a button press on the battery to access it. It’s enough to start you car. So theoretically never stranded again due to left on lights or just sitting to long.

I’m using one of these currently.
https://www.lithiumax.com.au/product-page/lithiuma...

Sydney V8V

Original Poster:

85 posts

56 months

Wednesday 26th August 2020
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I was going to use a Lithiumax but cost more and needs special bracket to hold it in Vantage .Itech will do me if it works ok.
Swapping batteries in Vantage , Can i just connect trickle charger to terminals to keep a charge to the ECUs while i swap over batteries , ??or will I have have to reprogramme ECUs =windows , door mirrors ,firing order etc etc?.

bogie

16,384 posts

272 months

Wednesday 26th August 2020
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I just left my charger plugged into the car charge port in the boot when I changed the battery over and saved resetting everything

Sydney V8V

Original Poster:

85 posts

56 months

Thursday 27th August 2020
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Thanks for that , just that my model early 2 007 has not got a charge point. I'll just connect C-tek trickle charger to cables

bogie

16,384 posts

272 months

Thursday 27th August 2020
quotequote all
Sydney V8V said:
Thanks for that , just that my model early 2 007 has not got a charge point. I'll just connect C-tek trickle charger to cables
My 2006 coupe did have. In the boot on right hand side there is a 12v outlet, just connect your CTEK up there if you have the 12v DC adapter plug

Sydney V8V

Original Poster:

85 posts

56 months

Friday 28th August 2020
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Thanks Bogie, i found it , has power outlet 12v 10A. on black cap.

cornershop

2,136 posts

196 months

Friday 18th September 2020
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Keen to know more on this - pls do report back
Valiant-Ecosse said:
The lower CCA is why I'm keen to test them rigourously. They also offer a 120ah 950cca which will be the next port of call if the 650 isn't up to the job and that comes in at 5.5kgs.

Just as a point of reference though I've been running the red top 40 race battery in my car for over two years with the following specs

Capacity: 39Ah.
CA: 600A.
CCA: 500A.
Weight: 14.9kg.

And I've had no issues whatsoever despite the fact I never use a trickle charger and the car is often left for weeks without use. This is why (and also on advice from the manufacturer) I'm testing the 650cca dead weight battery first rather than going overkill.

Always better to test and see the results first hand than relying on the numbers.

And certainly use a local product where possible I cannot agree more on that. I'm not trying to push product, more chip in on the specifics and range of products available in lightweight batteries. My aim isn't never to be some online shop for vantage parts (if I can help it) I'm more interested in building cars so the testing and product knowledge is important before I put something in a customer car.

Edited by Valiant-Ecosse on Wednesday 26th August 06:55

AdamV12V

5,025 posts

177 months

Friday 23rd October 2020
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Any updates on the testing of the deadweight battery?

Valiant-Ecosse

553 posts

210 months

Sunday 25th October 2020
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so, fitment is a little tight but with a little patience and persuasion it goes and its not a problem.

So far longest Ive left the car off charge in the cold is about 3 weeks and no issues whatsoever. Even with me mucking about coding modules and running AMDS.

So yes, very happy, and for the price I'm very impressed.

I've now supplied two of them to customer cars who also so far have had no issues.

I'll be adding them to my website at some point (when I get it up and running) and will try and post a bit more of a technical study when I get the chance.

Tremelune

42 posts

104 months

Wednesday 28th October 2020
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The Cold Cranking Amp spec applies to cars that are being started at 0°F (-18°C), and that's serious overkill outside Russia. How often do you start your car when it's 32°F below freezing? If you don't need to start the car at 0°F, you can cut the CCA in half. You can cut them in half again if you don't need to start the car below freezing, as well...just don't leave your lights or stereo on when the car is off!

Lithium batteries are great new tech, but a lot of cars have trouble charging them properly. Something as modest as an AGM Odyssey PC680 will likely start the car no problem year-round in the UK, but I would keep it on a tender if it wasn't going to be driven for a week or so.

gralegav

21 posts

138 months

Wednesday 28th October 2020
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Tremelune said:
Lithium batteries are great new tech, but a lot of cars have trouble charging them properly. Something as modest as an AGM Odyssey PC680 will likely start the car no problem year-round in the UK, but I would keep it on a tender if it wasn't going to be driven for a week or so.
THIS. I run a PC680 on my Audi S1 hatch and it’s great, but doesn’t like being left for more than 3 or 4 days. Have fitted a battery cutoff switch, which I also had on my LiIon battery on a previous Lotus. The trick is remembering to switch it off.....