DB9 Rear Subframe Refurbishment Project.
Discussion
What i did was to put a trolley jack under the knuckle with a block of wood, i then raised the suspension to the correct ride height thats in the workshop manual thats 376.5mm from the middle of the main hub nut to the top of the wheel arch and torqued all the bolts up to the correct settings. don't put the jack under the brake disc.
Just do it at one corner at a time, be carefull as you'll be taking alot of weight off the rear axle stands.
I dont know if your V8V is different but this is from the DB9 workshop manual-
Just do it at one corner at a time, be carefull as you'll be taking alot of weight off the rear axle stands.
I dont know if your V8V is different but this is from the DB9 workshop manual-
Edited by paulrog1 on Saturday 27th February 10:04
Edited by paulrog1 on Saturday 27th February 10:04
If it's the same as the V8V all you need to do is to lower the gearbox (transaxle) to allow the subframe to come out over the top of the transaxle.
The half shafts need to be removed both sides.
It's not a difficult job, just needs a methodical process and take your time. Feel free to ask questions as you go along !
The half shafts need to be removed both sides.
It's not a difficult job, just needs a methodical process and take your time. Feel free to ask questions as you go along !
Thank you very much for your reply.My car is a 2006 DB9 manual which has 20k miles is in near perfect condition but there is some corrosion on back subframe but I’m nervous if I had to split the main driveshaft from the diff.I think if I remove the driveshafts and other linkage the subframe will slip back over the diff.Is that correct.I really appreciate your help in this matter.Thank you.Pat
Thank you very much for your reply.My car is a 2006 DB9 manual which has 20k miles is in near perfect condition but there is some corrosion on back subframe but I’m nervous if I had to split the main driveshaft from the diff.I think if I remove the driveshafts and other linkage the subframe will slip back over the diff.Is that correct.I really appreciate your help in this matter.Thank you.Pat
No problem - Paul will no doubt be along at some point with extra guidance, as my refurb was V8V.
Worth a read as well as there’s a lot of commonality in the two cars and some things are covered in one or the other of the threads.
I’ve put up the link to my front end refurb, which has a link to the rear refurb at the start.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Happy reading !
Worth a read as well as there’s a lot of commonality in the two cars and some things are covered in one or the other of the threads.
I’ve put up the link to my front end refurb, which has a link to the rear refurb at the start.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Happy reading !
As JonnyCJ has said all you need to do is to remove the halfshafts and support the rear diff with a trolley jack and you can just lower the diff slightly as you remove the subframe for the top bar to clear the chassis.
It's a straightforward job, you will find corroded bolts which you need to remove.
The rear bumper, rear lights, rear brakes, rear suspension, exhaust, halfshafts and hydromounts need to be removed, read the Aston workshop manual for torque figures.
Read all of this topic, the only difference is you have a manual gearbox instead of my ZF auto.
Good luck!!
It's a straightforward job, you will find corroded bolts which you need to remove.
The rear bumper, rear lights, rear brakes, rear suspension, exhaust, halfshafts and hydromounts need to be removed, read the Aston workshop manual for torque figures.
Read all of this topic, the only difference is you have a manual gearbox instead of my ZF auto.
Good luck!!
Edited by paulrog1 on Thursday 24th February 21:10
Hi Paul,Jonny I have the subframe and other bits and pieces removed from car now and away to get sandblasted.Would it be better to have the subframe undercoated and sprayed with good quality two pack paint or have it powder coated.Also what is the best way to get the exhaust cleaned.Thanks for all your sound advice.Pat.
Don't just powdercoat. You need to have a zinc primer applied first. Paul and I used Hunter Steel who did a 3 stage industrial coating which has a life of 20 years in a marine environment. Just powdercoat will mean that any small chips etc will let water/rust in. This then creeps along underneath the powder coat and you can't see it happening.
For the suspension arms, if you want these tidied up go with vapour blasting. You can then get the arms nylon coated or use XCP Rust Blocker with a few light coats, allowing to dry in between.
Worth googling coaters near you and having a chat. You want to do it right first time.
I'd just leave the exhaust as is. It's stainless, so might be a bit tarnished, but there's nothing you can apply to keep it shiny given the heat it gives off.
I have to say, that was quick work Pat - don't forget lots of pics for us subframe returb pervs !
For the suspension arms, if you want these tidied up go with vapour blasting. You can then get the arms nylon coated or use XCP Rust Blocker with a few light coats, allowing to dry in between.
Worth googling coaters near you and having a chat. You want to do it right first time.
I'd just leave the exhaust as is. It's stainless, so might be a bit tarnished, but there's nothing you can apply to keep it shiny given the heat it gives off.
I have to say, that was quick work Pat - don't forget lots of pics for us subframe returb pervs !
Edited by JonnyCJ on Friday 25th February 14:38
Thanks for posting this info Paul and Jonny
I'm about to start doing mine https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I'm about to start doing mine https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Bit of resurrection here! Paul, when you mentioned earlier in the thread that you took the hub and driveshaft to BR to get then pressed apart, do I infer from that that you can pull the hub and the driveshaft out through the knuckle once you have unbolted the inner end of the driveshaft? And how much of a fight was it to get the hub out of the knuckle? Did you use a puller, and if so which type?
I have access to a press, just not at home.
Reason for asking is that I'm fairly sure I have a rear wheel bearing on the way out. I'm tempted to tackle it myself, in principle it's well within my capabilities, other than if something refuses to budge!
I have access to a press, just not at home.
Reason for asking is that I'm fairly sure I have a rear wheel bearing on the way out. I'm tempted to tackle it myself, in principle it's well within my capabilities, other than if something refuses to budge!
When I removed the halfshafts from the car I removed the inner bolts, suspension bolts and the halfshaft, hub and knuckle came away in one assembly.
The halfshaft CV joint would not come free from the wheel bearing, plus the wheel bearing would not come free from the knuckle so I took the whole assembly to BR to separate the individual items.
Mike told me if it's not removed properly the knuckle might crack.
On reassembly I was told to smear some loctite blue on the CV spines going into the wheel bearing because if it's abit loose when you you take up the drive you could hear a clunk.
You might not have the same problem, Mine is a 2004 DB9 so those CV joints had been in the wheel bearings for around 16 years.
The halfshaft CV joint would not come free from the wheel bearing, plus the wheel bearing would not come free from the knuckle so I took the whole assembly to BR to separate the individual items.
Mike told me if it's not removed properly the knuckle might crack.
On reassembly I was told to smear some loctite blue on the CV spines going into the wheel bearing because if it's abit loose when you you take up the drive you could hear a clunk.
You might not have the same problem, Mine is a 2004 DB9 so those CV joints had been in the wheel bearings for around 16 years.
Edited by paulrog1 on Thursday 12th January 20:23
paulrog1 said:
When I removed the halfshafts from the car I removed the inner bolts, suspension bolts and the halfshaft, hub and knuckle came away in one assembly.
Ah interesting, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. That might be an option then; I'll maybe try taking the driveshaft out and seeing whether it, and the hub, will come free whilst on the car, with the knuckle removal as a second option. Have read and digested the rest of your reply as well.Mine's only a year newer than yours, so it's now as old or older than when you did this job, so I'm not expecting it to play nicely really.
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