DB9 Rear Subframe Refurbishment Project.

[paulrog1]

Bit of an update,

Thanks to Bamford Rose the wheel bearing hub assemblies are now off the half shafts, the half shafts have some surface corrosion so I've got hold of a POR-15 kit as they are made of steel and these will be painted.

The wheel bearings are going to get replaced with new ones, plus the brake disc shields looked really corroded so I'm replacing them with new.

I've purchased all new genuine AM bolts and nyloc nuts for the suspension arms as the old one's looked badly corroded and loads of other parts such as new wheel bearing hub nuts, half shafts to diff bolts, handbrake cable, parking brake pads, droplinks etc.

The stainless exhaust rear box to rear pipes has 4 zinc plated bolts, these will be replaced and where the chrome exhaust tips were fitted I'm using stainless nuts and bolts as the brackets are stainless steel and the zinc plated bolts all had excessive corrosion.

The subframe & antiroll bar will be going to Hunter steel at the end of next week for the 3 stage primer/paint and the suspension parts vapour blasted.

Once at home I'll spray the items with XCP rust blocker and inside the subframe with Dynax S50.

Halfshafts


Old Wheel bearings


Subframe wiring loom

Edited by paulrog1 on Saturday 10th October 06:41

Edited by paulrog1 on Saturday 10th October 06:44

[JonnyCJ]

Well done Paul - all sounding very familiar !

[JonnyCJ]

Some more tips...

You’ll need to re-cut the subframe threads, the coating is pretty robust and a bolt won’t chase it out.

Ask Harry at Hunter to ensure all holes are blown through as thoroughly as possible to remove the blast media and also do it yourself. Calliper mounting holes especially !

The half shafts are handed. You’ll lose the sticker that identifies which is which if repainting, so measure or make sure you can see a part nr stamp.

Even if you’re buying new nuts and bolts, it’s worth getting them zinc plated. The factory paint is inadequate for rust prevention. The plating process strips the bolts to bare metal and then plates in zinc. It’s only a few microns thick, so won’t foul threads etc.

[paulrog1]

Update,

The subframe is now over at Hunter steel for sand blasting, zinc primer and painting plus the suspension arms for vapour blasting, collecting it all in a couple of weeks.

Whilst removing the exhaust I found a cracked clamp so I decided to remove the exhaust up to the secondary cats and replace all clamps. I found an identical stainless steel clamp made by Magnaflow part no 10162.

I've also got quite abit of corrosion on the half shafts so I made a wooden frame to enable them to be painted using POR15.

I'm replacing alot of fixings on the exhaust as Aston used zinc plated fixings and becuase the exhaust is stainless steel there is excessive corrosion.

Project is going really well.

Edited by paulrog1 on Tuesday 20th October 19:57

[JonnyCJ]

I painted my hydro mounts - they were in much better condition than yours. Might be worth renewing with the Jag items ?

[SHIFTY]

Exhaust clamps from AM are £21 each (just bought 2) so good find.

They do look a little different though as some are curved that fit on the secondary cats and exhaust finishers.

Edited by SHIFTY on Wednesday 21st October 16:57

[paulrog1]

Update -

Subframe now back from the painters and it looks ace, plus the suspension arms have been vapour blasted.

Driveshafts have been treated with POR15 which I'm really impressed with.

I will use Dynax S50 on the inside of the tube sections in the subframe, plus I'm coating all suspension arms with XCP Rust blocker to slow down future corrosion.

I have replaced the exhaust clamps with new stainless clamps and marine grade A4 stainless fixings only for the stainless exhaust fixings. Zinc plated fixings for the subframe stuff and genuine AM bolts and nuts for the suspension arms.

Subframe should be going back on the car soon then the massive re-assembly starts.

Edited by paulrog1 on Friday 30th October 09:47

[JonnyCJ]

Good stuff ! Remember to blow the blast media out of the caliper bolt holes and don’t oversoak the suspension arms with the xcp. A few light coats are much better then one heavy one. Give them a few days between coats to dry off a bit.

They should feel silky smooth once all dried.

Re-assembly is the icing on the cake - enjoy it and keep those pics coming !

[EVR]

Great job, it is almost a shame to hide them under the car.

[Cold]

Enjoying this thread.

[phumy]

Looking great and cant wait to see the fitment of all these part and the finished results.

[paulrog1]

Some before and after photos -

Before -





After -







Before -



After -

Edited by paulrog1 on Sunday 1st November 17:55

[DB9VolanteDriver]

That POR15 stuff is tough as nails. A little tricky to get smooth results, however. The best part is the very minimal prep that’s needed before using our.

[JonnyCJ]

Surprised you didn't get the gearbox mounts vapour blasted Paul ?

As long as you can live with knowing they're dirty under there.

Don't take any notice of me - I had mine done at the same time and they look great…

just saying

[paulrog1]

Update, I used Dynax S50 last week on the inside of the subframe tubes, it was quite messy as if you don't block up any small holes it just runs out, but after a couple of days it turns into a wax.

Subframe is now back in the car, I decided to do a JonnyCJ benchpress manoeuvre which worked a treat.

I put cloths over the top bars to protect the paint whist I move it in place over the transmission/diff unit and then my wife moved 4 buckets with wood underneath to keep it roughly in place then I put the bolts back in and correctly torqued them.

Wiring loom now back in with new cable tie clips used, brake pipes and gearbox vent pipes back in place.

Next is to install hydromounts and new handbrake cable.

Still loads to do.

Edited by paulrog1 on Thursday 5th November 20:13

[JonnyCJ]

That really is all the hard work done now Paul, everything else is a joy as you watch it all come together. You’re lucky her indoors helped out - my indoors was indoors watching TV.

I found an extra pair of hands using bungee cords attached to the rear of the subframe. This allowed me to set the height and gave me sufficient flexibility to move the subframe forward at the right height.

[skeena river rover]

Great refurbishment and write up. Good job.

[morty1961]

Fantastic thread Paul great work

it looks like the subframe on my V12V has been done at some time in the semi recent past as its in very good nick when I checked it last August on the lift at AM Performance Macclesfield (Bridge Mill).

[JonnyCJ]

This will soon become an important thing to check when buying a VH Vantage or DB9. They’re still relatively young enough for it not to be an issue if caught early enough, but you just need to look at the issues the classic Vanquish has and the cost to remediate.

Cars that have been remediated will command a big premium over those that haven’t.

All in my humble opinion of course...

[Wilky7]

JonnyCJ said:

This will soon become an important thing to check when buying a VH Vantage or DB9. They’re still relatively young enough for it not to be an issue if caught early enough, but you just need to look at the issues the classic Vanquish has and the cost to remediate.

Cars that have been remediated will command a big premium over those that haven’t.

All in my humble opinion of course...

I completely agree, the older the car the more important too. . It'll be on the 'must check' list with DB9 tick and Primary cats removal. As you say, the cars that have been sorted will command a premium and will also give buyers a lot of confidence