V12V Summer gremlins...Help!!!
Discussion
For any of my cars that don’t get used for say over 3 weeks they automatically get put onto a charger / conditioner.
Not saying they won’t be ok post that but the hassle factor isn’t worth it although sounds like you are suggesting your optimate may have failed ?
Most of my chargers are CTEK and usually the MXS5 version.
Amazon has them usually the cheapest along with whatever connectors you need.
I have an optimate model for my GT8 as that has a lithium battery.
Not saying they won’t be ok post that but the hassle factor isn’t worth it although sounds like you are suggesting your optimate may have failed ?
Most of my chargers are CTEK and usually the MXS5 version.
Amazon has them usually the cheapest along with whatever connectors you need.
I have an optimate model for my GT8 as that has a lithium battery.
After my unsuccessful Optimate charge and condition attempt, the battery now shows 16.4v in the engine bay and 17.6v at the battery terminals! A new one on me!!
The engine now starts and runs ok, but the Emission service warning remains.
Even after a nice long drive, the battery voltage remains high, so I’ll still be replacing it.
The engine now starts and runs ok, but the Emission service warning remains.
Even after a nice long drive, the battery voltage remains high, so I’ll still be replacing it.
Lawts0908 said:
After my unsuccessful Optimate charge and condition attempt, the battery now shows 16.4v in the engine bay and 17.6v at the battery terminals! A new one on me!!
The engine now starts and runs ok, but the Emission service warning remains.
Even after a nice long drive, the battery voltage remains high, so I’ll still be replacing it.
Think those readings must be wrong ( he says hopefully ) The engine now starts and runs ok, but the Emission service warning remains.
Even after a nice long drive, the battery voltage remains high, so I’ll still be replacing it.
For batteries try TAYNA Batteries - excellent prices and quick delivery . The battery is straight forward to change if a tad fiddley .
These Aston's seem very very voltage sensitive.
Have decided to disconnect and remove the battery. Hell, what a job. Carbon seats also make it so much harder as they don’t tilt fully etc. Top tips:
1. Remove wristwatch
2. Protect drivers seat (I used patio chair cushion on seat base)
3. Protect areas between the seats. (Old towels)
4. Disconnect terminals.
5. Remove alloy strip trim
6. Undo rear securing band (torx)
7. Pull forward carpet trim to reveal front of battery NOTE : this panel must come free of the lower left corner!! It will almost click off an inch or so to allow left side panel (as you face rear of car) to be pulled and eased away for the two securing slides to be slide out and off the battery. .if the front panel isn’t eased off the lower corner, you will have the mother of all jobs getting the two sliders off.
8 loosen and slide out the securing slides. (Sounds easy doesn’t it?)
Remove the front band bolt between the slider. Torx 30 (and this must be done before slides removal
9 lift and remove battery between the seats if you have lightweights like me. Lower the battery onto your protected drivers seat befor lifting free from the vehicle.
Hope that helps someone else. That tip about pulling free the lower corner of the carpeted front panel where it meets the lower corner makes all the difference!
1. Remove wristwatch
2. Protect drivers seat (I used patio chair cushion on seat base)
3. Protect areas between the seats. (Old towels)
4. Disconnect terminals.
5. Remove alloy strip trim
6. Undo rear securing band (torx)
7. Pull forward carpet trim to reveal front of battery NOTE : this panel must come free of the lower left corner!! It will almost click off an inch or so to allow left side panel (as you face rear of car) to be pulled and eased away for the two securing slides to be slide out and off the battery. .if the front panel isn’t eased off the lower corner, you will have the mother of all jobs getting the two sliders off.
8 loosen and slide out the securing slides. (Sounds easy doesn’t it?)
Remove the front band bolt between the slider. Torx 30 (and this must be done before slides removal
9 lift and remove battery between the seats if you have lightweights like me. Lower the battery onto your protected drivers seat befor lifting free from the vehicle.
Hope that helps someone else. That tip about pulling free the lower corner of the carpeted front panel where it meets the lower corner makes all the difference!
Lawts0908 said:
My Optimate conditioner goes through charging and discharging cycles to recondition batteries. It has proved very effective in the past, but sadly has not been successful with my V12V this time.
Any recommendations for a replacement?
For battery or charger? I'm sure your charger is fine; for batteries I go to Halfords, mostly for their fitting service. Then it's up to them to get it going again if there are any problems!Any recommendations for a replacement?
And is your car OK now?
The car is fine thanks, apart from the emissions service warning that is permanently illuminated now. I’m assuming that it’s time for an O2 sensor or similar??
I was anxious to remove the battery as it was well overcharged and I certainly didn’t want it to harm my electrics. It’s the first time I’ve ever encountered a battery giving off 17 volts. Research shows that this is a possibility and it’s not good for 12v circuitry.
Im wondering if it’s entirely necessary to replace with such a massive battery, or are there better alternatives available thesedays?
I was anxious to remove the battery as it was well overcharged and I certainly didn’t want it to harm my electrics. It’s the first time I’ve ever encountered a battery giving off 17 volts. Research shows that this is a possibility and it’s not good for 12v circuitry.
Im wondering if it’s entirely necessary to replace with such a massive battery, or are there better alternatives available thesedays?
I wouldn't under spec the battery. You have to the cranking capacity and duration of being able to provide power. These should be at least as specced by AM or better really.
Have you checked your voltmeter DC accuracy against another car battery. Without the alternator running and it being faulty I can't see how you can get 17v from the battery.
If the original drain on the battery was enough it could drain at certain times more than the optimate could deliver and the optimate would probably stop charging/go into some sort of fault condition. You may then think the optimate was to blame.
Have you checked your voltmeter DC accuracy against another car battery. Without the alternator running and it being faulty I can't see how you can get 17v from the battery.
If the original drain on the battery was enough it could drain at certain times more than the optimate could deliver and the optimate would probably stop charging/go into some sort of fault condition. You may then think the optimate was to blame.
Lawts0908 said:
The car is fine thanks, apart from the emissions service warning that is permanently illuminated now. I’m assuming that it’s time for an O2 sensor or similar??
Im wondering if it’s entirely necessary to replace with such a massive battery, or are there better alternatives available thesedays?
I go by cranking amps and physical size/fittings.Im wondering if it’s entirely necessary to replace with such a massive battery, or are there better alternatives available thesedays?
As for the emissions warning, I got it once but it got bored and went away after a few trips. More at https://www.pugsleyandlewis.com/blog/has-your-asto...
Lawts0908 said:
The car is fine thanks, apart from the emissions service warning that is permanently illuminated now. I’m assuming that it’s time for an O2 sensor or similar??
I was anxious to remove the battery as it was well overcharged and I certainly didn’t want it to harm my electrics. It’s the first time I’ve ever encountered a battery giving off 17 volts. Research shows that this is a possibility and it’s not good for 12v circuitry.
Im wondering if it’s entirely necessary to replace with such a massive battery, or are there better alternatives available thesedays?
Hi Lawts, I would say the low battery voltage has caused your emissions fault. Chances are it will clear after a few drives or if not I would suggest you buy an SD2 reader and erase the fault and see if it returns at a later date. Chance is it wont.I was anxious to remove the battery as it was well overcharged and I certainly didn’t want it to harm my electrics. It’s the first time I’ve ever encountered a battery giving off 17 volts. Research shows that this is a possibility and it’s not good for 12v circuitry.
Im wondering if it’s entirely necessary to replace with such a massive battery, or are there better alternatives available thesedays?
Lawts0908 said:
Have decided to disconnect and remove the battery. Hell, what a job. Carbon seats also make it so much harder as they don’t tilt fully etc. Top tips:
1. Remove wristwatch
This man knows.1. Remove wristwatch
Glad you sort of sorted it? As for the Emission Error, I also suggest as Astontony did to connect a reader to see if you can clear the error code from there.
I use an ultra small & cheap wireless one that I leave permanently plugged in the OBD port and connects to my iPhone (Car Scanner app). I am not sure emission errors are stored there though (never had one) or via the other OBD port, which I believe you need a proper reader like a Foxwell to access.
Simpo Two said:
For battery or charger? I'm sure your charger is fine; for batteries I go to Halfords, mostly for their fitting service. Then it's up to them to get it going again if there are any problems!
And is your car OK now?
Just a note on this. Having now experienced what’s involved removing the battery from a Vantage, (and as a person with 40yrs of mechanics behind me) I’m not sure that I’d ever want to trust this job to the guys at Halfords, who most likely wouldn’t take the time or care to minimise the damage to leather or carbon that I did. No disrespect intended, but a great deal of care is needed to minimise the risk of scratches, damage etc!And is your car OK now?
Lawts0908 said:
I’m not sure that I’d ever want to trust this job to the guys at Halfords, who most likely wouldn’t take the time or care to minimise the damage to leather or carbon that I did...
Except they do it under a gazebo in the car park and I'd be standing over them...! If I try to do it and something goes wrong, I'm left holding the baby. If they do, it's their responsibility.Lawts0908 said:
Many thanks to all. I’ve not ever used or experienced an OBD reader, but maybe this is a good time to start. I will look into it.
Extremely grateful to all contributors. Hopefully all will be well when the new battery is installed.
Feel free to reach out to me here/private messages if you want help in picking the reader/app. I honestly advice you to start cheap and eventually move up to a Foxwell if needed/wanted.Extremely grateful to all contributors. Hopefully all will be well when the new battery is installed.
New battery installed and the p&j is up and running again!
Many thanks to leman600 who suggested that the volts reading on my multimeter may be incorrect. This was indeed the case. For some weird reason the reading was over 3.5 volts over. That explains the head scratching when my initial readings were all over 12v and the engine wouldn’t even consider cranking, so I’m guessing the true voltage was actually under 9v at the time. A shame because my meter was a top of the range Clarke model, so I naturally thought it to be reliable.
Every day’s a school day!! Don’t always trust your meter!
Many thanks to all for the kind advice once again.
Many thanks to leman600 who suggested that the volts reading on my multimeter may be incorrect. This was indeed the case. For some weird reason the reading was over 3.5 volts over. That explains the head scratching when my initial readings were all over 12v and the engine wouldn’t even consider cranking, so I’m guessing the true voltage was actually under 9v at the time. A shame because my meter was a top of the range Clarke model, so I naturally thought it to be reliable.
Every day’s a school day!! Don’t always trust your meter!
Many thanks to all for the kind advice once again.
Lawts0908 said:
Many thanks to leman600 who suggested that the volts reading on my multimeter may be incorrect. This was indeed the case. For some weird reason the reading was over 3.5 volts over. That explains the head scratching when my initial readings were all over 12v and the engine wouldn’t even consider cranking, so I’m guessing the true voltage was actually under 9v at the time. A shame because my meter was a top of the range Clarke model, so I naturally thought it to be reliable.
Every day’s a school day!! Don’t always trust your meter!
It could be that the battery in your multimeter needs changing as well. Every day’s a school day!! Don’t always trust your meter!
EVR said:
Lawts0908 said:
Many thanks to all. I’ve not ever used or experienced an OBD reader, but maybe this is a good time to start. I will look into it.
Extremely grateful to all contributors. Hopefully all will be well when the new battery is installed.
Feel free to reach out to me here/private messages if you want help in picking the reader/app. I honestly advice you to start cheap and eventually move up to a Foxwell if needed/wanted.Extremely grateful to all contributors. Hopefully all will be well when the new battery is installed.
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